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  1. #1

    Smile MSX 110 Help Please

    Hello Guys,
    I have a similar problem to some i have read on here. Here is my issue:
    My MSX 110 will start fine, run fine at idle and low speeds, but once I throttle up the check engine light comes on and it is limited in RPM. When this started I took it to a PWC mechanic and he drained some oil. Last week I checked the oil after running for 30 seconds and not putting dipstick all the way in, and it was low on oil. I have checked intake hoses (fine), will check wastegate this evening along with the turbo hose. I have a hard copy of the maintenance manual, but it isn't much help in the toubleshooting section. I also took fuel filter out but it seems fine. Polaris won't sell me digital wrench and there is no one closer than 6 hours away that will work on it. Please give me any advice you can. I heard Chip was pretty knowledgeable on these skis
    Thanks, Richie
    [email protected]
    251-583-9137


  2. #2
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    WELCOME TO THE HULK
    I can see that you have done some reading to come up with chip's name
    glad you found this place these guys will get you all fixed up
    I would help ,but i am a hack -hell i never evan used a torque wrench
    enjoy and have fun
    mattman

  3. #3

    Smile

    Thanks for the welcome message KEYZBUM. I'm so glad I found this place. I honestly think my problems started when the oil was overfilled once before. I think I am going to change the oil again using Mobil 1 15W-50 and only filling to the dipstick "add" indicator. I guess I'll clean the sensors, try to move the wastegate, and maybe replace the O2 sensor. I learned all this from reading other posts. Hopefully, some of these guys will respnd to my post and help me out
    Richie

  4. #4

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by volleybug View Post
    Thanks for the welcome message KEYZBUM. I'm so glad I found this place. I honestly think my problems started when the oil was overfilled once before. I think I am going to change the oil again using Mobil 1 15W-50 and only filling to the dipstick "add" indicator. I guess I'll clean the sensors, try to move the wastegate, and maybe replace the O2 sensor. I learned all this from reading other posts. Hopefully, some of these guys will respnd to my post and help me out
    Richie
    your going the right way,let us know how it turns out

    later cd

  5. #5

    Smile

    I talked to a technician at a dealer in Freeport, Florida who says he's seen it numerous times with the Polaris MSX models. He says that each and every time it was the wastegate being corroded and stuck. I haven't had a chance to check mine as I'm still at work, but will definitely do that first thing when I get home.
    He also went on to tell me that he has only gotten 1 of them unstuck and that every time he had to replace the turbo, which he quotes at $2500.00 plus labor. I'm sure alot of that is just him trying to make money and there is no telling how many people he screwed over by telling them the wastegate could not be broke free. Let's just hope I get lucky and mine is in fact stuck and can be freed with lots of penetrating oil.
    He did say that Polaris came up with an upgrade which is a wastegate solenoid and Polaris will cover it under warranty.
    I will let you guys know what I find out this evening. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
    Richie

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volleybug View Post
    ... He did say that Polaris came up with an upgrade which is a wastegate solenoid and Polaris will cover it under warranty...
    Perhaps that fix came from the sled side of Polaris?

    Does anybody know anything about a waste gate upgrade from Polaris?

  7. #7
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volleybug View Post
    I talked to a technician at a dealer in Freeport, Florida who says he's seen it numerous times with the Polaris MSX models. He says that each and every time it was the wastegate being corroded and stuck. I haven't had a chance to check mine as I'm still at work, but will definitely do that first thing when I get home.
    He also went on to tell me that he has only gotten 1 of them unstuck and that every time he had to replace the turbo, which he quotes at $2500.00 plus labor. I'm sure alot of that is just him trying to make money and there is no telling how many people he screwed over by telling them the wastegate could not be broke free. Let's just hope I get lucky and mine is in fact stuck and can be freed with lots of penetrating oil.
    He did say that Polaris came up with an upgrade which is a wastegate solenoid and Polaris will cover it under warranty.
    I will let you guys know what I find out this evening. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
    Richie
    He is right about the $2500 for the new turbo...I missed one on eBay, that went for $250.00!

    I have gotten mine loose using penetrating oil...and a lot of elbow grease. It really helps to disconnect the rod (5mm allen). I am coming to the belief that the shaft needs to get a couple of drops of oil before every outing, and I have concocted a mixture of 50% Liquid Wrench and 50% Mobil 1 0W-40W motor oil. It seems to me that it needs an oil that can take the heat, and the 0W is the thinnest from Mobil.... I also try to add a few drops during the day, when the engine is hot, and the lever is moving freely (probably due to the heat). I believe that if you were able to CAREFULLY apply some heat to the lever, that it would expand and crush the corrosion, and take the lubrication better (that is how we used to free up salt corroded outboard engine bottom units).

    As for the updated solenoid...that was the first thing that I suspected, and I replaced mine from the dealer. I am sure that I received the upgrade, since he had to order it right from Polaris just months ago. I don't think you need to go there...unless you find that your lever is already freed.
    Last edited by Rocky_Road; 04-15-2008 at 06:01 PM.

  8. #8

    Thanks Rocky

    Here is an update. I used PB Spray Lubricant and "elbow grease", I also poured boiling water on it once. I got the valve to move, but only with a wrench. I still can't move it with my hand. I will heed the advice about the heat and maybe keep pouring boiling water on it. Here is a question though.....the way the valve is attached to the casing, it doesn't look to me like any lubricant can get to the actual shaft. There is a raised "bump", for a lack of a better description, on the casing and the valve is attached to that. It seems to me like anything you spray or pour on it won't get to the corrosion itself. I will also try removing the rod from the valve. Maybe that will work for me.
    Does anyone know of an alternative fuel filter I can replace mine with. I saw some very similar "looking" 10 micron filters at Walmart. I think they were made by Fram.
    Thanks for all the help guys. I will continue in my efforts and take it out for a test drive this weekend.
    Richie

  9. #9
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volleybug View Post
    Here is an update. I used PB Spray Lubricant and "elbow grease", I also poured boiling water on it once. I got the valve to move, but only with a wrench. I still can't move it with my hand. I will heed the advice about the heat and maybe keep pouring boiling water on it. Here is a question though.....the way the valve is attached to the casing, it doesn't look to me like any lubricant can get to the actual shaft. There is a raised "bump", for a lack of a better description, on the casing and the valve is attached to that. It seems to me like anything you spray or pour on it won't get to the corrosion itself. I will also try removing the rod from the valve. Maybe that will work for me.
    Does anyone know of an alternative fuel filter I can replace mine with. I saw some very similar "looking" 10 micron filters at Walmart. I think they were made by Fram.
    Thanks for all the help guys. I will continue in my efforts and take it out for a test drive this weekend.
    Richie
    Not to worry...there is a shaft, and the oil will find it. It took me quite a while to free mine up, and over quite a few days. I think that I got the best results doing this on the beach, after the ski was good and hot. I am convinced that heating the top of the lever (and I mean torch heat) would be the best way to go...the shaft would expand inside the housing, and 'crush' the corrosion. I have a heavy duty soldering iron, with a large flat tip, that I will try next, if mine freezes up again!

    Definitely disconnect the rod...you don't want to put too much strain on the spring in the bellows, since the bellows is not sold seperately by Polaris.

    Too bad Polaris didn't anticipate this issue, and use a bronze bearing around the shaft. If I ever buy a new turbo unit, I will consider reworking the wastegate with a bearing, or a grease fitting. I see where the same wastegate problems are plagueing the other brands of turbo charged skis still being made....

  10. #10
    2&4strokepolaristech's Avatar
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    wastegate arm

    if you feel like replacing the manifold i have rebuilt ones in stock for a fraction of the cost and they are modified so that the wastegate has better function and lube is easier to get through shaft and bushing. i have been doing this for almost 4 years now. works like a charm. also have rebuilt turbos as well. hey why not make that 110 a 150? the link is below and i can be reached there. manifold is 600.00 shipped including a new sensor.turbos are 900.00 with a rebuildable core

    Jay

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