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Thread: No spark!

  1. #1
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    No spark!

    Today I assembled the 96' sl900 here is what I am dealing with:

    - I am going premix so I have the oil tank lying beside the ski, but the wires are still connected
    - mfd is saying no oil as I expected, so I will do that procedure in the electrical box to fix that.

    - I HAVE NO SPARK!

    Like many others, I second guess myself with electrical knowledge, but here are the ohm tests I got tonight (from book):

    -Alternator coil (red/purple to yellow) 01.0 on 200 scale
    -exciter coil (black to purple) 1200 ohm on 2k scale
    -exciter coil (black to gray) 135 ohm on 2k scale
    -exciter coil (black to ground) 0 ohm

    When I did the stator test I had some trouble, I followed the directions with the 9V battery, make all the hookups, and for the 3 wires I got:

    red 0.35 ohms
    green 0.35 ohms
    blue 0.35 ohms

    I think these are correct, but when the book says slowly turn crank to see changes in the values, they never changed.
    ___________________

    When I turn the 900 over, it will click sometimes 7-8 times in a row then it will turn over but with no spark. That tells me that the problem is in the starter solenoid? I tested the solenoid pull in resitance and got 2.9 which is good since it falls within 2.8 and 3.6 in the specs. battery is charged, and contacts are clean.

    Measurements at spark plug leads were all 6.0 k ohms which is good. I feel like the red bolded alternator coil could be the "no spark" problem, but wanted to verify whether I measured it correctly....?

    Am I missing anything?


  2. #2
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    I just came across some more tests in the tech section, here is what I get:

    Primary (Black/White) to:

    yellow/brown 0.8 ohm 200 scale
    black/blue 0.8 ohm 200 scale
    black/green 0.8 ohm 200 scale

    Seeing as the specs in the book say .35 ohm does that mean all 3 coils somehow are shot!?

    I retried the yellow to red/purple on the 200 scale, and get 0.9... which is nowhere near .75. This ski never had electrical issues before the rebuild, it was the pistons that fell apart, how could such devastation happen to more than one electrical component?

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    The odds of the stuff going bad is pretty slim unless you powered up with no ground.
    How is the ground to the engine? Be sure to clean the contacts at the battery posts and to the plate or engine (no paint).
    Check for shorted or cut wires from the stator to the box.
    Did you remove the wires from the electrical box when you removed the engine?

  4. #4

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    lemme know what stator p/n you have i might have a replacement

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea~smith View Post
    Primary (Black/White) to:

    yellow/brown 0.8 ohm 200 scale
    black/blue 0.8 ohm 200 scale
    black/green 0.8 ohm 200 scale

    Seeing as the specs in the book say .35 ohm does that mean all 3 coils somehow are shot!?
    I think these values are OK.
    At very low resistance values, the meter leads become part of what you are measuring. If you connect the meter leads together, the ohm reading you get is to be subtracted from your measurements above.
    Also, you are right at the lower end of the meter's measuring range (200 ohm scale), so the meter's own measuring accuracy is not great.


    I retried the yellow to red/purple on the 200 scale, and get 0.9... which is nowhere near .75.
    Polaris says all measurements can be plus or minus 10%. That along with meter lead resistance, and limited meter accuracy, means that your measurements are just fine.

    This ski never had electrical issues before the rebuild, it was the pistons that fell apart, how could such devastation happen to more than one electrical component?
    Quote Originally Posted by sea~smith View Post
    Today I assembled the 96' sl900 here is what I am dealing with:

    - I am going premix so I have the oil tank lying beside the ski, but the wires are still connected
    - mfd is saying no oil as I expected, so I will do that procedure in the electrical box to fix that.

    - I HAVE NO SPARK!

    Like many others, I second guess myself with electrical knowledge, but here are the ohm tests I got tonight (from book):

    -Alternator coil (red/purple to yellow) 01.0 on 200 scale
    This is OK. Even if the charging coil was bad, it would not affect starting or running, just charging.

    -exciter coil (black to purple) 1200 ohm on 2k scale
    -exciter coil (black to gray) 135 ohm on 2k scale
    -exciter coil (black to ground) 0 ohm
    These numbers seem to match up with the specs.

    When I did the stator test I had some trouble, I followed the directions with the 9V battery, make all the hookups, and for the 3 wires I got:

    red 0.35 ohms
    green 0.35 ohms
    blue 0.35 ohms

    I think these are correct, but when the book says slowly turn crank to see changes in the values, they never changed.
    This is not correct. The ohm-meter should read high/infinite resistance for most of the rotation of the flywheel, then switch to near zero (0.35 ohms) briefly as the magnet passes the sensor.
    Is it possible you connected the 9 volt battery incorrectly, or had the red & black meter leads swapped?
    Have a look at the modified diagram I
    coloured.

    Note that the red meter lead connects to the battery negative terminal for the test.
    Hall effect sensors are affected by polarity. If the test wires are not correctly oriented, the test results are inaccurate.

    ___________________

    When I turn the 900 over, it will click sometimes 7-8 times in a row then it will turn over but with no spark. That tells me that the problem is in the starter solenoid?
    Are you SURE you have a solid battery connection to the engine block?

    I tested the solenoid pull in resistance and got 2.9 which is good since it falls within 2.8 and 3.6 in the specs. battery is charged, and contacts are clean.

    Measurements at spark plug leads were all 6.0 k ohms which is good. I feel like the red bolded alternator coil could be the "no spark" problem, but wanted to verify whether I measured it correctly....?

    Am I missing anything?
    Beerdart, the charts and diagrams on the Service Manual pages 7.35 and 7.36 are not clear.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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Name:	Polaris Spark Coil wiring Domestic 1996 900-1050.jpg 
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  6. #6
    www.springbreak-florida.com rgard32's Avatar
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    when it turns over does the MFD show rpms? if not battery is low.....also take a pic of the electrical box for us please

  7. #7
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    Ok, I first want to verify that my connections are going where I think they should haha. positive wire (red) goes from battery to starter motor. Negative goes from battery to engine (I put it on the bolt mounting on the exhaust side). Ground is on the opposite side on the intake manifold bolt mounting. I made sure no paint was there, and sprayed circuit cleaner, so connections are good.

    I was doing a multitude of things wrong with the stator testing, so here are the CORRECT results of my most recent test:

    At 200k scale (probe to probe reading 0.00 ohm)

    Red

    Initial contact (before spinning the crank) (130.1 ohm)
    found the no continuity area (-0.00 ohm)
    Immidiately after -0.00 with slight crank spin (jumps between 90-100 resting mainly on 94-95 ohm)

    Blue

    Initial contact (before spinning the crank) (127.8 ohm)
    found the no continuity area (-0.00 ohm)
    Immidiately after -0.00 with slight crank spin (jumps between 70 to 80 ohms but with a bit more variability)

    Green

    Initial contact (before spinning the crank) (126.3 ohm)
    found the no continuity area (-0.00 ohm)
    Immidiately after -0.00 with slight crank spin (jumps between 88 to 96 ohms)

    I am actually happy with this test since I found the areas of no continuity etc, however I am not sure what the results mean. The book says resistance should be under 25 ohms when the magnet and sensor arent aligned, but my readings are clearly way over 25 ohms. They might have used a different ohm scale to measure, so I can only supply you guys with the scale that gave me values. (200 and 20k did not show anything).

    Another concern I had was that the area of now continuity was not very large, it existed, but the crank had to be turned very slowly to find it. When there was continuity, the readings were quite jumpy, going all over the place. However, when the -0.00 showed up it did so immediately, and then spiked right back up after passing it. (the book says this needs to happen).

    The "clicking starter" situation seems to have gotten better since cleaning the contacts.

    I am praying you are all going to reply with, "your stator is looking perfect!" hahahah,

    Thanks guys

  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgard32 View Post
    when it turns over does the MFD show rpms? if not battery is low.....
    I've seen this with the wrong or bad CDI on a Fuji engine.

  9. #9
    www.springbreak-florida.com rgard32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    I've seen this with the wrong or bad CDI on a Fuji engine.
    i saw it on a SL 900 remember that nightmare? lol

  10. #10
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Oh Yeah!!

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