06-08-2006, 10:51 AM #1
"VE" Urathane Motor Mount w/pics and HOW TO
I will post up how I did all of this after the Bug or tonight, but I can say that it is 1,000 times better than stock
I did not think that the stock one was that weak but I know this is stronger so testing will comence in LA
I was in a real hurry to get this done as I was leaving for the Bug the next day, and I just found that the pictures look terrible.
Maybe if someone wants to get theirs done, I can take some more.
I found that Loctite makes the medium density urathane and you can get it from Grainger. When I called I found that they did not stock the Loctite as the cost was so high $75.
She told me they had a substitute brand that they did stock for $45 I found that it was the exact same thing so I got it.
I got home and read the directions and this stuff was going to be the ticket so out the mount came.
I have an eye bolt I mounted in the ceiling from a small beam to pull ski motors. I used that and a ratchet strap to lift the motor up and get the weight off the mount.
Now I am headed to the Lowes with the mount in hand to find a mold. I knew I could find some sort of plumbing fitting to work and man did I.
I got a 4" to 3" reducer that sealed against the top of the mount Pefectly.
Only prblem was that the 4" was a little big around the mount so I found a coupling (I think 3") that fit inside the adapter.
Now as you can see the mount is hollow through most of the body.
My idea was to drill holes on an angle through the rubber and then through the body so that when the urathane was poured into the mold it would fill the back of the rubber mount and the metal body to make it more rigid but not solid as everyone thinks that it needs to have some give.
I drilled and grinded out the back of the mount until I hit the back of the metal backing plate that the motor bolted into as I wanted as much urathane as possible in the body.
So I put the mount into the mold and poured.
I hit around the mold for about 5 min. to get all the air out and to get it through all the holes.
You can remove it after 10 hours and put it in service in 24.
I kept a space heater in front of it as heat makes it cure lots faster.
The brand I used di not say this but the Loctite did.
When I went to bed I wraped it in foil to keep it warm.
I cut the mold in two places down both sides and broke it with a screwdriver and it came out perfect with no release agent.
Also you will not be able to use the allen head screws as the body is larger than stock. I swaped out the bolts with some I had. THere is no proble putting them back with an open end wrench.
Also a relief area in the back of the mold will make install easier as well.
So if anyone wants me to do theirs I will do them in pairs for $150 each.
You ship them to me with a return lable and I will get them done in 2 days and drop them off to ship back ready to run.
06-08-2006, 01:07 PM #2
I knew this could be done!!! GOOD JOB!!!
Well I'll go ahead and ask the question everyone is wondering... How does this compare to the RR ?
This seems to be a better option than the JB Weld one I was going to make
06-08-2006, 01:11 PM #3
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Ann Arbor, MI
That looks great VE...but no offense if you were to sell those for 200 +s/h I would rather just pay the extra 80 bucks and get the RR one...
If I were you I would sell them for around 150 or so...I think you would get a lot more buyers! Including me!
06-08-2006, 02:08 PM #4
The reason he would sell for 200 is because it requires 3-4 hours of labor. I sure wouldn't mess with making these unless I was getting some $$ for the labor especially quality.
If you don't want VE making them then I would just make it yourself after he posts the how to. I would think it would be making a mold and then just filling it up with the foam below while your engine is on a jack
VE you da man. I love this forum!!
Now I get to make a thermostat and my front engine mount
Still have to buy the thru hull, skegs, metal washers ,SC mod,boost gauge, A/F guage and bung ..don't think I can make those..
06-08-2006, 06:47 PM #5
I was thinking you could even make it without removing it from the engine. You could use the bottom of a coke bottle or similiar bottle then wrap it around the base of the mount. Then fill it up with the Uerethane foam.
06-08-2006, 07:24 PM #6
ya, 200 is reasonable. thats about what i would have charged to machine one outa aluminum.
theres alota work in custom parts. and time is money
06-08-2006, 09:28 PM #7
06-09-2006, 08:02 AM #8Originally Posted by rapidacceleration
06-09-2006, 09:19 AM #9
So should it be able to flex a little or be as solid as possible. If it was completly solid would it cause hull flex and eventually start putting stress marks in the hull.
I was thinking rigid urethane or does that not provide enough flex.
Can't wait till Dave posts.... ohh the suspense....
06-09-2006, 11:26 AM #10
Do you think stiffening the side mounts with Urethane would help anything ?
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By Pistonwash in forum Yamaha Old School SkisReplies: 15Last Post: 02-23-2008, 09:05 AM
By Jeff C in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 3Last Post: 07-11-2006, 04:55 PM
By INDY27 in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 18Last Post: 06-12-2006, 08:31 PM
By 1 FAST VE in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 0Last Post: 06-04-2006, 06:16 PM
By Shibby1485 in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 89Last Post: 05-06-2006, 05:22 PM