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  1. #1

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    '97 SLT 700 need some info.

    Hey guys, got a '97 SLT 700 I just got to work on.

    This model was in need of the ign. update, was it not? What's the fastest way for me to notice if this has been done or not? Can't remember from when I did the Hurricane.

    I'm told the ski seems to run fine for 15 minutes or so, then loses alot of power and often dies. Will run fine again after sitting and cooling down. This sound like an issue related to the old ignition?

    Mag 120 psi, pto 115 compression. May be a little low, not sure what this is supposed to have.

    Here's my plan of attack so far.
    1. Find out if the ignition update has been done, I think their is a strong possibility this may be the problem.
    2. I have no idea how many hours are on this unit, it could probably use a fresh topend, but for now compression seems so so.
    3. Want to check the check valves and vents on the fuel system.

    Either way, I think it has a problem with electrical failing when it gets warmed up, or it's losing more compression when it gets warmed up. Doesn't appear to be sticking a piston at all.

    I'm gonna tear into the electrical tonight and see what I find. Is their anything with the old ignition that fails commonly that I might find by doing electrical test?


  2. #2

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    Starting checking some stuff out tonight.

    Pulled the carbs and opened the electrical box.

    For the time being just checked one carb and it was surprisingly clean. The electrical box looked like brand new inside. Blown fuse for the bilge pump.

    I believe it still has the old ignition system in it. It had the earlier red epoxied CDI. And it still has the second ground wire to the battery, and if i remember correctly, the update does not need the second wire.

    The fuel tank and system had ALOT of pressure built up, forgot to open the filler cap and when I pulled the carb line it shot all over me

    So far I'm still leaning towards it being the electrical system, without first hand knowing the symptoms.

    From what I can see the cylinders look good, the carb was pretty clean, the electrical box was dry and looked new. Piston wash looked ok, no indication of overheating, exhaust hosing looks solid.

    I just wish I knew what the guy meant by "lost power." Don't know if it's hitting a limp mode or what, could be anything.

  3. #3
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Had a thought, Tank had pressure ,How's the tank normally vented. If the venting is plugged it could stave it when the vacuum builds. or could be a semi plugged fuel flow. The brown back CDI is the older style from what Randy told me on the 1200's.

  4. #4

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    Yeah, I had initially planned on checking all of the vents and check valves. Just one of the things I always do after a friend had a long summer with one giving him problems.

    So that could be a possibility, but if it were bad enough that he's losing noticeable power and at times dying, i'd expect to see some ugly piston wash and a fair lean condition. So I still think I have another problem.

    And I have a feeling that I'll waste all my time checking the electrical and it will check out fine until it's hot. But at the same time dont wanna make the guy spend $300 and then find something else is rearing it's nasty nose later!

  5. #5
    casey67's Avatar
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    The 96/97 did not have a limp mode,just a warning buzzer. Old cdi #'s 105-552.02 or 4060117 or 4060148 . The tech section,domestic ignition system will have the diag information,also has the update kits #'s,and the updated CDI part #'s.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    The 96/97 did not have a limp mode,just a warning buzzer. Old cdi #'s 105-552.02 or 4060117 or 4060148 . The tech section,domestic ignition system will have the diag information,also has the update kits #'s,and the updated CDI part #'s.
    Noticed that with the buzzer in the manual, thanks tho!!

    It does have the old elec. system, and no limp mode.

    Im almost positive it's still getting the fuel it needs, the compression should be fine so it's almost gotta be the ignition system.

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Measure out the staror,might find some thing. Intermitent no start,I would lean towards the CDI,maybe some one has a used one to test,if nothing else you'll have an excuse to go for a ride and get better details/symptoms.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    Measure out the staror,might find some thing. Intermitent no start,I would lean towards the CDI,maybe some one has a used one to test,if nothing else you'll have an excuse to go for a ride and get better details/symptoms.
    I won't be doing test rides. If I'm fixing anything electrical, it's the complete update or nothing.
    Something is heating up though and losing resistance, so I think. I'm gonna do some electrical tests on it tonight on the stator etc...I'm betting everything is gonna check out fine, but it would nice to see something wrong

  9. #9

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    well did my testing.......everything checked out good. A couple readings on the exciters were off just a touch, but nothing big.

    What I did find though was no reading thru the mag spark plug cap. Trimmed it down and now it's fine. I'm wondering if it was getting contact with engine vibration and every now and then not.

    Told the guy he can try it and see if that happend to have been his only problem and he said to just go ahead with the electrical update anyways.

    So, time to get ahold of Jay for a update kit.

  10. #10
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I'm with your customer, do the update now as it WILL fail later. No need to have him/her back.

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