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Thread: my hull work

  1. #1
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    my hull work

    guys i spoke with David (RUNWME) last week about a few things and he was expressing that i should get under my ski and get some hull work done,

    he explained about the hook in the hulls and to be honest i had to take the phone to the ski while talking to realize what he was referring to,

    well i decided to remove the hook after his phone conversation and he refreshed a thread i found in the hope that some other guys do it too.

    Ive been out in garage for well over 5 hours now laying on my back working the hull..

    hook was all gone after about three hours so i decided to true the hull as far as i can reach on the trailer then remove and carry on working hull on cart,all going fine and dandy but its messy work and i cant see jack for the crap in my eyes

    i started by putting axle stands under the rear of trailer to stop ski landing on me , and removed the plate and tabs

    then jacked up the front with a trolley jack so the ski can roll back far enough off the trailer to work to the intake grate,which is as far as i can get on trailer for now.

    then got a pillow off bed without pillow case of course as its now garage pillow, and got settled under ski.

    Ive used these papers in order with a 18 inch long wood block and some sanding pads also for smaller areas

    papers i used

    240 only to start and find high spots
    280
    320
    500


    a few have asked can you use a machine for this well i thought that till i got started and for me its a no as i am a little heavy handed and its easy to mess up if your on a power tool,but other may be different..

    included a few pics and hope this may help anyone who has yet to give it as go..

    pic.1 put axle stands under and get your pillow out..you will be there a while

    pic. 2 jack up front

    pic.3 unwind on winch to get as far as you can but be careful.

    pic.4 i covered the hook in black tape in case you were not sure where to find it.

    pic.5 squares of tape,these spots were very high on my ski

    pic.6 finished up with a light going over with 500.
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    Last edited by Hydrotherapy; 04-25-2008 at 12:07 PM.


  2. #2
    SpeedJunky's Avatar
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    Looks great, bet the arms are tired.

    Now do you need to paint or ?
    Let us know what kind of gains you see, I may do this in the near future.

  3. #3
    Nothin' runs like a Deere IowanGPR's Avatar
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    I'm going to be doing mine within the next couple of weeks. these pics really help... I'll be doing mine the same but it is already on the shop stand. looks good



    KEVIN, haven't seen you around in a while... hows it goin?

  4. #4

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    Looks Good to me! One special note when doing hull truing be sure NOT to round the edge on the strakes ( chines) keep the edges nice and sharpe. Rounding the edges will cause handeling problems! Tommy Jordan
    Last edited by 2fast4u; 04-23-2008 at 09:10 AM.

  5. #5
    RUNWME's Avatar
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    +1 Looking good Paul...

    No need to thank me, thank Tommy Jordan
    Tommy is an excellent tutor on how to look at hulls in a way I never would have considered. Ive been very fortunate to learn so much from him and am happy to pass along some of advice he has bestowed upon me.

    So many of us spend tons of hours and thousands of dollars chasing speed and we overlook the basics......

    is my hull true?
    is there "water grabbers" on the bottom ( raised surfaces, bolts, misaligned parts)
    does the water flow efficiently off the bottom?

    There are several mph just waiting to be released for free in the GPR hull, and I am sure Paul your hard work will be rewarded with an increase in speed and fuel economy.


    For me, the difference was real easy to see.....My hull was in bad shape, and working it and adjusting my ride plate Tommy found 5mph 72 to 77 mph out of my hull ( for nothing more then cost of sandpaper )

    BE CAREFUL THOUGH
    I always make a GPS run on last leg heading to the bridge and lift in same location for ski to settle down before getting into no-wake..... well, after doing all the work hull my ski "coasted " much further then it did before doing all the work and I went under bridge before it settled into water. Doing all this work will increase your speed, but will also INCREASE your stopping distance needed
    Last edited by RUNWME; 04-23-2008 at 09:36 AM.

  6. #6
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    worked a little further up the hull on the cart(dolly) as i could not reach on trailer,
    i feel i'm in unchartered territory so have stopped for now,,but there was a massive bump in the water track just before the intake that i feel would have pushed the water away rather than in to the prop

    few more pic ...
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  7. #7
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Lookin good !

  8. #8
    WE DONT DIAL 911 RDH's Avatar
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    looks great!!

    i need to do this too in a big way... my eight year old hull is gouged and dinged pretty bad.. i wasnt the original owner so its not my fault,, people treat these things like crap, runnin them on rocky shores and what not ..

    so are you gonna paint it after your done or put a finish coat or something?

  9. #9
    RUNWME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydrotherapy View Post
    worked a little further up the hull on the cart(dolly) as i could not reach on trailer,
    i feel i'm in unchartered territory so have stopped for now,,but there was a massive bump in the water track just before the intake that i feel would have pushed the water away rather than in to the prop

    few more pic ...
    I am glad you stopped... I left that bump for following reason....(my line of thinking)

    Coming out of the hole, the bump wont effect anything, but with the way these pumps are overstuffing, smoothing out the radius going into the intake grate could be counter-productive. I feel its just going to stuff the intake harder at high speeds which induces the buck and increases drag.

    BEFORE YOU READ MY NEXT LINES, know its not been tested sufficiently to know if it helps or hurts in back to back, but if you try it, I would love to hear results



    When I did my hull, I tried to give it a slight straight edge or lip in area from keel to to intake opening... Rather then a gradual flow, I made a very slight step. I wanted to try to straighten water out some and not flow so hard into intake opening at high speeds. I think this is one of reasons my pump tunnel pressures were always lower than everyone else I compared them to. (even the guys that had extension drilled)

    To be honest, I had just gotten started messing around with the pump tunnel opening when I switched to a propeller and sealed it all up so never fully explored that line of thinking.

    I feel like what I was doing was helping because we got my speed to 78mph with no engine work or nitrous, but its possible it could have been hurting me as other Fountain guys got over 80 with no engine mods Tommy repeatedly said I was close on the setup,but to keep working at it because I never completely nailed it down.
    Last edited by RUNWME; 04-23-2008 at 12:07 PM.

  10. #10
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    thanks for kind words and imput guys

    been out and finished up today on the hull work i started..

    Ive smoothed the intake hump/lump some as i had two indentations there in the glassed surface, but not removed or worked it too hard ,

    just a clean up on the original design and i hope helping the water flow better..

    Ive now moved to another area on the hull that needs some attention (David) and may take it in work tonight as an die grinder and air polisher may benefit it.

    will keep you posted and report back any new speeds or losses as soon as the tide is right to launch and the winds below 15MPH..

    special thanks to David as he gave up half hour to run me through these areas and what can i say other than what a nice genuine guy .

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