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  1. #1

    96 XP 800 Electrical Issues

    Hey everyone, I have a little electrical concern and hoping someone else has had it as well so I can have the answer. As mentioned above I have a 96 XP 800. It's a lot of fun but seems to live up to the Bombardier legacy, ride for 2 hours and repair for 2 weeks.

    A little background on it's past issues are, the second year I finally had the chance to ride it as it spent the first in the shop for warranty repair. I bought it used from a dealer just a few summers ago. The second year I had the negative lead from the battery break off, that was re-routed to the back of the engine. The water by-pass line off the exhaust blew off filling the engine compartment with water...which eventually snuffed it and hydro-locked it. Last summer the thing was a pig to start and wrote off one battery. It also had the oil injector blow it's top thankfully not far from shore so no damage. And at the end of the summer the battery light came on 17 minutes into the last right of the season.

    I just installed new electronics in the front grey box, actually I replaced the box as an assembly and still I get an arcing at the battery when connecting the neg lead. It never arced before the battery light came on. This time after charging the battery and installing the new electrical the battery started to boil and it pushed out some fluid through the overflow on the right side of the machine...again never did that even after the light came on the first time.

    I tested the stator and the resistance values are within spec. I tried replacing the start solenoid and no difference. I do recall hearing that something about the wires in the grey deutch connectors usually fail so not sure if that's an issue yet or not. Oh and I had the starter bolts back out of it kicking the starter out of the crank housing enough to still engage the flywheel but not enough to fall out. I have corrected everything I could in the mentioned except for this new electrical problem. I have also heard something about the stator can get dislodged and ground out...any ideas are really appreciated. I did change out the fuel lines too...I replaced them with clear pvc hose and all the hose clamps were replaced with the good tie-straps...the ones with the rounded peaks off the back meant for hoses. Thanks for the input everyone.


  2. #2
    skirtchaser's Avatar
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    Try unpluging the vts box.I've heard the a bad vts box can cause a draw.

  3. #3
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    talk about a ghost in the machine! holy chit! thats some bad luck bro. hope you can get it fired up again...good luck

  4. #4
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    The boiling of the battery is the rectifier has failed. Apparently the one was bad in the new gray box you bought...if you still have yours try it first before buying a new one.

    On the arc...it is normal to get an arc. You just didn't notice before. 96 ignitions have a constant draw...so if you aren't riding it for three weeks or more disconnect the battery. Battery Tenders work great too.

    This ski is VERY relaible after you get the (known) bugs worked out of it. After the aggravation of going through this, you'll be very glad you did.

    Enjoy!

  5. #5
    Hey fellas, thanks for the input. I disconnected the VTS and no changes. I did purchase a new regulator/rectifier for it well before replacing anything else and it didn't cure the problem. Are there any areas of the wiring that have been known to rub and short to ground on that machine? The new gray box I have full faith in being solid.

    I trust the guy I bought it from very much and before he sent it to me he put it in his 96, took it to the dealer and fired things up. He also had them program me a lanyard too. Thanks Miller Phase 3 1050 This guy went a long way for me. I have come to find that if I disconnect one of the yellow leads from the stator harness before it reaches the voltage regulator, the arcing stops. I can understand a small little arc but this is a somewhat substantial one.

    Again guys, I can't thank you all enough for the hints and suggestions. I will try everything suggested including trying the brand new, out of the package regulator again just to be sure. One other unrelated quick question. I am planning on installing a plunger style primer kit to help with the starting issue. After my oil injector blew up I plugged all of the injection lines and made it into premix. Am I safe to use the existing oil injection ports in the intake manifold as my primer ports? I really don't want to port my carb if I don't have to.
    Last edited by Schwarzenegger; 04-27-2008 at 07:38 AM.

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Your stator may be shorted also then. You'll have to pull the front cover and inspect it, to see if the gray epoxy around the windings have turned brown. If so...it has fried your new rectifier too.

    Primer kits are the best investment you could ever do, as the engine starts wihin 2 seconds and increases starter and charging component life substantially. To install you remove the stock choke plates and cable. The primer kit comes with brass barbs to install into the holes where the choke plates were, and brass plugs for the bottom holes. Install (fuel) pickup tee in a low spot of the fuel return line, where there will always be fuel in the line. No carb porting necessary.

  7. #7
    MILLER PHASE 3 1050's Avatar
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    just my 2 cents ...i sold him the front grey box from my original 96 xp that i have owned and ridden since 98 so i know the box is good ...also it has a new rectifier that i had bought i belive from john zigler towards the end of last year ....i belive its the stater ....ive had a bad vts housing that blew fuses and then you replace the fuse and see smoke comming outa the vts box when the start button was pressed lol exciting ...hope somebody can help this guy out ...josh ..free bump !

  8. #8
    MILLER PHASE 3 1050's Avatar
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    i know i just posted but can you post pics of the inside of your boat ...

  9. #9
    Hey guys, sorry I haven't had a chance to get back to everyone. I ran into some truck troubles which has held me back. I will get some pics of the inside of my boat as soon as I get a chance and the stator will be my next place of inspection.

  10. #10
    Sorry for the delay guys, I have removed the stator and noticed a very small burnt spot where one of the wires are just starting to leave the stator. Here are the pics of the inside as requested. I believe I have found the fastest way to get that stator out. Miller, this may be some good info for you. I remember you mentioned I needed to unbolt the exhaust and a few other steps. I cheated I removed the impeller and housing, unbolted the engine from the mounts and totally removed the front mount. I had enough space to push the engine back and lift it enough to remove the stator housing and stator. It took me about an hour and a half. The clear PVC hoses should be alright shouldn't they? I know they aren't "fuel" hoses but as far as I know the only difference between stamped fuel hoses and PVC hoses are pressure handling capabilities. There's no real pressure on these lines are there?
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    Last edited by Schwarzenegger; 05-11-2008 at 10:00 AM.

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