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Thread: 96 GSX Idle EGT

  1. #1

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    96 GSX Idle EGT

    What is the EGT idle speed supposed to be on the hose at 3k rpms?


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Apparently not stock since you have egts?

    At 3k I remember around 485? It all depends on how lean your pilot (low) jetting is, there is no "perfect" temp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Apparently not stock since you have egts?

    At 3k I remember around 485? It all depends on how lean your pilot (low) jetting is, there is no "perfect" temp.

    Well that makes me feel better.

    (96 GSX G.K sleeper, rossier pipe, NOVI modded 40 I series carbs, modded to 42mm with booster and internal mods)


    Here is my situation:

    Mag reads just about 485, PTO reads no more than 200 after a couple minutes on the hose, or a 30 second run off the hose.

    Both read equal with torch on probes.

    Put mag probe in PTO side and PTO side in mag side. Same readings, 485 in mag not over 200 in PTO.

    This eliminates any problem wit the probe.

    Any ideas?

    Only other thing that is a little off is fuel pressure. With a 60 jet in return line, pressure is only 1 PSI on the hose or off the hose. Even if I pinch off the return line before the restrictor and after the pressure gauge, the pressure does not rise.


    I took the carbs apart to double check everything before my last run of tests and, the lever arm looked low so I raised it .88mm above the carb body, other than that they looked great.

    I guess it's good to know the hot cylinder is the correct temperature.

    Any help is really appreciated.... I am really at a loss here.
    Last edited by pdxrealtor; 04-28-2008 at 07:47 PM.

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    Tool Bag water worx's Avatar
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    Temp is also relative to how close or far away the probes are from the exhaust port.

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    Yes, they are both drilled in the side of the manifold, not exact in line I'm sure because I didn't measure them, but it is not like one is in a completely different location than the other.

    There isn't too much room for play with the water jackets there.

    Now that I think about it, there are two tabs that stick out, both probes are right in front of those tabs, so maybe they are more accurate than I thought.... either way.
    Last edited by pdxrealtor; 04-28-2008 at 08:47 PM.

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Was the "cast" restrictor orifice drilled in each carb? It sounds like not maybe. What fuel pump are you running? Maybe if you post up a pic it would help.
    The temps should be close to equal for sure.
    Last edited by 96XPSS; 04-29-2008 at 06:39 AM.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Was the "cast" restrictor orifice drilled in each carb? It sounds like not maybe. What fuel pump are you running? Maybe if you post up a pic it would help.
    The temps should be close to equal for sure.
    Yes, the carbs came with one restrictor drilled out, and I drilled the other one out with Tim from NOVI on the phone while I did it.

    Mikuni DF somthing on the fuel pump, it's the black one with dual out puts. The dual outputs go into a GK A/F separater, the out of the separater into the mag carb.

    I'll take a picture tonight and post it up.

  8. #8
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Good job talking with Tim...I think he and I resolved this issue, because I argued with him that the stock orifice was larger than the 60 jet he wanted me to use in the rear carb. I told him this would make for unbalanced pressures between carbs, resulting in different fuel flow. But don't tell anybody...

    I just checked my 42's, and I'm using 1-30 restrictor jet in the Y...for both carbs. I trashed the Mikuni years ago and bought a Novi/BRP pump from Tim, and his hull mount bracket.

    It's been awhile since this ski has ran, but if memory serves me correctly, Tim said it is not supposed to get below 2 psi anything above idle. At idle (1500 rpm in the water), 1 psi is ok.

    Now for the possibilities. There's a couple but we'll be able to figure it out.

  9. #9

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    That is funny, Tim told me he quit selling those BRP fuel pumps because of problems.... and to use the mikuni dual output. The output isn't that much diff any ways, and I don't need the third outlet of the BRP pump.


    Why do you need a "Y" for your carb setup? With a remote pump, I could see where you need the Y fitting into the carbs, but that would not need a jet to regulate fuel pressure. I'm confused????

    You think my A/F separator is robbing pump power? In from the tank, into the fuel pump. Then out of the dual output on my pump into the fuel chamber. Then out of the bottom of the fuel sep. to the carb.

    All the fuel separators I have seen have some sort of regulator jet in them.....

    Remember, I can pinch off the line completely right after the gauge, and before the jet and not see a rise in fuel pressure.

    Maybe I need to put a jet someplace on the separater, or bypass it for a quick test...... (thinking out loud here)....
    Last edited by pdxrealtor; 04-29-2008 at 09:13 PM.

  10. #10
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    The BRP fuel pump are the best, IMO. I think Tim's supplier quit on him...
    The two return lines from each carb are Y'd together. This maintains equal fuel pressure between each carb. This is where positive pressure should be measured, before the restrictor jet. The jet is in the trunk of the Y and goes back to the tank.

    If the pump is on the engine, this is one problem. Vibration at certain rpms prevent pumping.

    I've seen the mica check valves deteriorate too.

    A couple things to check.

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