Thread: Problems after Hull work
04-30-2008, 02:31 AM #1
Problems after Hull work
(I also PM'd a couple of people this, but thought I would put it our here for anyone else that might have ideas)
Yesterday Mik72e and I both trued our Hulls on our ski's (silly move three days before race day (40 mile WOT enduro race)).... before hand both our ski's were solid as a rock (mike 80-81mph me 76-77mph) over boat wake etc very solid.
Since truing hulls both our ski's porpus (Mikes actually wants to jumps out of the water above 78mph after porposing for a bit (mine probably would to if it got to 78mph).
We both tried to lower and raise plates (mike between .980" and 900" - and mine I started at .960" with .040 washer in the rear and tried with no washer in the rear right up to .090" washers in the rear of the plate) no matter what we did Ski did exactly the same (only speed changes).
We are both running .120" washers under our trim tabs (mike with metal tabs me with factory plastic tabs). I went down to .060 wasers and didn't change (Mike also tried less washers with no results).
Only thing that made both our ski's marginally better at the end of the day was .120 washers front of trim tabs and .150" washers rear of trim tabs. Ski's still porpos in super man but its manageable but annoying and the ski's just feel all wrong.
before hand both ski's were so Solid, now they just feel wrong after truing... three days until race day... any suggestions to cure our problems? we need ideas urgently?
I understand that we've changed the dynamics of the ski a little, and some adjustments would most likely be needed, but everything we try doesn't seem to make a difference?
Damian and Mike (the Aussie crew)
Last edited by Autosport; 04-30-2008 at 06:18 PM.
04-30-2008, 07:24 AM #2
Do you have any pictures of what you guys did??
What kind of race?? Long course, short course, endurance??
04-30-2008, 07:32 AM #3
Make sure your plate is true with the hull on both the left and right sides.
Take a 4 foot aluminum level and check plate height from the hull on each side. You probably took more material off one side of the hull than the other and now the plate isnt true with the hull anymore.
I had to shim my right side down .040 on both front and rear to get it aligned with the hull. Difference was day and night..
04-30-2008, 07:49 AM #4
Only pictures of my hull work are bellow, I don't have any of Mikes ski as we didn't do them together. (limited pictures using camera phone as the mother-in-law too the camera to Greece with her on holidays)
Last edited by Autosport; 04-30-2008 at 07:54 AM.
04-30-2008, 07:51 AM #5
04-30-2008, 07:57 AM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
AUTOSPORT, you need to talk with Tommy (2fast4u). He will take care of your problem without causing another one.
04-30-2008, 08:03 AM #7
04-30-2008, 08:04 AM #8
04-30-2008, 08:09 AM #9
Last edited by Autosport; 04-30-2008 at 08:16 AM.
04-30-2008, 08:24 AM #10
use OEM sponsons stepped
on shimming trim tabs
if using OEM, either plastic or metal
- keep the amount of shims the same front and rear
- typically the more shims, the more stable the ride
if using Riva or R&D trim tabs
- .120 washers front of trim tabs and .150" washers rear of trim tabs is good
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By moose51 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)Replies: 5Last Post: 01-29-2013, 10:09 PM
By Giulio_18 in forum Polaris Open DiscussionReplies: 2Last Post: 07-10-2011, 07:31 AM
By smackwave in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 9Last Post: 05-09-2006, 11:42 PM
By txgp1300r in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)Replies: 18Last Post: 04-13-2006, 11:29 PM
By VFX_Artist in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 7Last Post: 08-01-2005, 11:58 AM