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  1. #1
    BlackHawk's Avatar
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    How to: Change Piston Ring's

    Does anyone know how to change the Piston Ring's on a 06 RXP?
    If someone can please help me out I would really appreciate it....giving me step by step procedure.


  2. #2
    HORSEPOWER JUNKIE 9secZO6's Avatar
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    if we go step by step this thread will have 100 pages....we could call it 4-tec thread of the year If u don't already have prior experience with 4 stroke over-head cam engines using torq-to-yield bolt technology, u better take your time to learn and understand why things need to be done a certain way. The engine will have to be removed, head on or off, a couple threads here on this subject. U will want to understand cam timing to put the head back on as well as torque/angle figures (use new bolts). Then there is the removal of front and rear pumps (entire pto cover for rear) and then u get to split the cases. Take a look at (better yet print) the parts diagram from seadoo orig parts online catalog. Be advised bolts such as rod, head, and rocker shaft should never be re-used.....get new Start reading this site's threads on the separate procedures and come back to this thread for more q&a

  3. #3
    Ride Hard! aha's Avatar
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    The service manual explains it right?

  4. #4
    BlackHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9secZO6 View Post
    if we go step by step this thread will have 100 pages....we could call it 4-tec thread of the year If u don't already have prior experience with 4 stroke over-head cam engines using torq-to-yield bolt technology, u better take your time to learn and understand why things need to be done a certain way. The engine will have to be removed, head on or off, a couple threads here on this subject. U will want to understand cam timing to put the head back on as well as torque/angle figures (use new bolts). Then there is the removal of front and rear pumps (entire pto cover for rear) and then u get to split the cases. Take a look at (better yet print) the parts diagram from seadoo orig parts online catalog. Be advised bolts such as rod, head, and rocker shaft should never be re-used.....get new Start reading this site's threads on the separate procedures and come back to this thread for more q&a
    Is there a good sea doo manual for this....all the torque spec and stuff?
    I would love to do all the work my self...but not really sure how hard will it be.

  5. #5
    HORSEPOWER JUNKIE 9secZO6's Avatar
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    I have a service manual on CD, got it off e bay for like 25.00, u are gonna want one Proper tools (this site is is the most important tool) and that CD and u should be good to go. Someone familiar w/ nikasil cyl. wall finishes might want to chime in on cyl. prep for new rings....the manual may have this info as well. I don't think the rings are gonna seat all that good just slapping them in, but hey, I build motors that run on land If all else fails, bring the entire ski to mudbug w/ all the parts, It will run in a couple hours

  6. #6
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    4-tec cylinders aren't nikasil-ed... they rust in less than 60 seconds in the open air with a little water

    depends how the cross-hatch looks..i'd run a ball-hone thru it anyway before putting in new rings... throwing new rings into a seasoned bore is kinda half-ass i suppose?

    if u need new rings (which i also am wondering why ur putting new rings in)... you better measure the bore thoroughly..

    i have a block of mine that i thought would be an easy job for a ball-hone and new rings....not so much... now it's in a machine shop removing the .006" bore taper my cylinders seemed to developed quite nicely... the stones on the hone weren't even touching the cyl walls in many spots

  7. #7
    BlackHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9secZO6 View Post
    I have a service manual on CD, got it off e bay for like 25.00, u are gonna want one Proper tools (this site is is the most important tool) and that CD and u should be good to go. Someone familiar w/ nikasil cyl. wall finishes might want to chime in on cyl. prep for new rings....the manual may have this info as well. I don't think the rings are gonna seat all that good just slapping them in, but hey, I build motors that run on land If all else fails, bring the entire ski to mudbug w/ all the parts, It will run in a couple hours
    No problem...if all fails mudbug it will be....I hope you'll help me out

  8. #8
    BlackHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485 View Post
    4-tec cylinders aren't nikasil-ed... they rust in less than 60 seconds in the open air with a little water

    depends how the cross-hatch looks..i'd run a ball-hone thru it anyway before putting in new rings... throwing new rings into a seasoned bore is kinda half-ass i suppose?

    if u need new rings (which i also am wondering why ur putting new rings in)... you better measure the bore thoroughly..

    i have a block of mine that i thought would be an easy job for a ball-hone and new rings....not so much... now it's in a machine shop removing the .006" bore taper my cylinders seemed to developed quite nicely... the stones on the hone weren't even touching the cyl walls in many spots
    Well, my compression is way off (low cyl 1 and 3)....losing oil like hell....at WOT it fills the catch can and then starts blowing it out.....I fill it at the bottom mark, and after a couple of hours the dip stick has barely any oil on it....and I feel some air pressure on the dip stick when idling.

    So I'm suspecting bad rings....but this is a new engine only 25 hours on it...so I'm really puzzled...

  9. #9
    BlackHawk's Avatar
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    Oh I also get a P 0520 engine code.....oil pressure switch functional problem....what the heck is this and where is it? Anyone got this code before?

  10. #10
    HORSEPOWER JUNKIE 9secZO6's Avatar
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    Any chance it got hot? U know, cooking hot butting the rings and deton ating kinda hot? Or, u say only a few hours...was this after a camchain failure and someone fixed the head and replaced camchain (pinched ringlands on pistons from valve contact)? Just trying to figure the reason for so much leakdown Something going on for sure....ohh yea, and like Shibby said, if the rings ARE worn, so is the bore, honing it is gonna make it bigger and increase the ring gap.

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