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  1. #1
    Syclone's Avatar
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    1999 X-45 SLTX-b Pump Rattle

    Hello,
    I just picked up a 1999 X-45 SLTX-b with only 60 hours on it. The previous owner replaced the impeller and the driveshaft (due to sucking a rock). It runs real well.

    My problem is a rattle from the pump area when idling...it goes away with a small amount of throttle application. I can tell/feel that it is like the impeller is hitting on somthing in the pump. - like a light tappingon the hull as it runs at idle. From what I have read on this forum, it looks like you need to align the pump/engine only if the engine is removed...correct? So I am guessing the bearings or impeller may be loose... thoughts?


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    There is a "normal" amount of rattling when running the boat out of the water at idle. Make sure the bearing at the thru hull fitting is lubricated and verify the impeller clearance with a feeler gauge. Procedures are in the tech section and you can even download the repair manual.
    WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!

  3. #3
    Syclone's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. and the welcome. - I will look for the Manual - (DOH! I just bought a factory one off of Ebay yesterday for $65!!)

    To be clear, the rattle is apparent in the water...and can be "felt" - picture tapping your finger on the desk dot dot dot.......dot.....dot dot.....dot.....dot...dot dot...

    I am planning on taking the grate off and looking for play in the driveshaft.

    Thanks again.

  4. #4
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    What rpm does it idle at in the water? If its really low, the pump rattle can be noticed in the water. Should be 1300 or so. You may want to take the stator/impeller assembly off and make sure there is no free play in the stator bearings. The 1200 motor idles so dang rough that it seems like everything rattles on the ski at one time or another, but better safe than sorry.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Use a flashlight, and look for evidence of contact between the impeller and the wear ring housing. If the pump was replaced recently, there should be almost no wear marks/scratches in the wear ring. Look through the intake grate.

    If you take the jet pump off (not all that hard to do), watch for and check that the two little rubber end bumpers on the drive shaft ends are actually there. They are easy to lose.

    If you take the coupler guard off the drive shaft, you can rotate the shaft by hand. Take the spark plugs out. There should be no grinding or scraping sounds from the jet pump when turning by hand.

    Be sure the through hull bearing unit has been properly greased, and is not the source of the noise. If those bearings seize up while you are riding, it can tear the rubber hose holding that bearing apart, and you will then have a sinking PWC.

  6. #6
    Syclone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Use a flashlight, and look for evidence of contact between the impeller and the wear ring housing. If the pump was replaced recently, there should be almost no wear marks/scratches in the wear ring. Look through the intake grate.

    If you take the jet pump off (not all that hard to do), watch for and check that the two little rubber end bumpers on the drive shaft ends are actually there. They are easy to lose.

    If you take the coupler guard off the drive shaft, you can rotate the shaft by hand. Take the spark plugs out. There should be no grinding or scraping sounds from the jet pump when turning by hand.

    Be sure the through hull bearing unit has been properly greased, and is not the source of the noise. If those bearings seize up while you are riding, it can tear the rubber hose holding that bearing apart, and you will then have a sinking PWC.
    Thanks ALOT for this info! I will check them all in the next week. - From how it feels I am pretty sure the impeller is actually contacting the wear ring as it rotates - like the impeller is loose (randomly)- this means to me that the Staor Bearings may be fully shot - I should see this when I get the intake grate off. -Only the impeller and shaft were replaced by the previous owner.

    One last question please... A impeller and shaft replacement should not need a "alignment" correct? - This is only done if the engine is removed, correct?

    Thanks again for all the forum members help - this outpouring of information in such a short time has really shown me the quality of forum members at the Green Hulk. - Keep up the great work!

  7. #7
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    You shouldn't need to check alignment.

    BTW Welcome to the Green Hulk!

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syclone View Post
    ...From how it feels I am pretty sure the impeller is actually contacting the wear ring as it rotates - like the impeller is loose (randomly)- this means to me that the Stator Bearings may be fully shot
    - I should see this when I get the intake grate off.
    You don't have the remove the intake grate, just get a bright, compact flashlight (I like the Fenix L2D CE two AA battery model, and the thin single AAA LOD CE).
    Look through the intake grate, and in through the pump exit. A small pivoting dental mirror can be useful.

    -Only the impeller and shaft were replaced by the previous owner.
    To change the impeller, the stator tail cone and seal need to be removed. If the seal was compromised when it was reassembled with the new impeller, then water can get into the stator bearings, and rust happens.
    If the through hull bearing's seal lips were damaged when the drive-shaft was changed, then water could have damaged those bearings.

    Check the stator bearing spacer for length to spec, before reassembling with new bearings.
    Also look into the end of the coupler on the engine, make sure there isn't an old drive-shaft rubber end bumper piece hiding inside there.

    One last question please... A impeller and shaft replacement should not need a "alignment" correct? - This is only done if the engine is removed, correct?
    Generally speaking, the alignment should not change with a change in the pump. However, there have been cases where the original engine alignment was incorrect from the factory. Probably not a factor in your case, however.

    Make sure there is no corrosion or roughness where the pump sections meet each other. The circular ring and groove surfaces on each section should be smooth and clean.

    Clean the threads in the pump base with a tap, clean the bolt threads with a die, then reassemble with Blue 242 Locktite on the long bolt threads (18 foot pounds torque).

    Put some anti-seize on each pump section mating surface as you re-assemble.


    Thanks again for all the forum members help - this outpouring of information in such a short time has really shown me the quality of forum members at the Green Hulk. - Keep up the great work!
    Will you be doing your own stator bearing installation (if that is what is needed)?
    Last edited by K447; 05-15-2008 at 08:51 AM.

  9. #9
    Syclone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Will you be doing your own stator bearing installation (if that is what is needed)?
    Yes, I will.

    Thanks for the detailed information. I will post back my findings. (though I will not be able to get back to it for a couple of weeks).

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syclone View Post
    Yes, I will.

    Thanks for the detailed information.
    I will post back my findings (though I will not be able to get back to it for a couple of weeks).
    If you have not already, read up on the freezer and oven method of installing the stator bearings.

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