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  1. #1

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    Newbie w/2 95 sl750s and no spark in 1

    Alright I'm new to the PWC scene, I have owned a Seadoo sportster for the last 2 years but I recently picked up 2 95 sl750s in February. I've researched this site and many others religiously for the last month before I started my work on them. To give you all the background on them, the previous owner left them sitting for the last 3 years. I wouldn't buy them unless we could at least crank the engines. He got one to fire real quick but since he didn't have a battery he hooked it up to his truck to jump it(after reading the posts on here I wish he wouldn't have). The second one though wouldn't fire and we messed around with spraying some fuel/oil mixture down it and magically it turned over. So I went ahead and bought them.

    Now to explain what my plans are and the problem I'm experiencing right now. I've already replaced all the fuel lines and traded up to the 3 outlet pumps. I've cleaned the carbs in one ski and plan on hitting the others tonight. The problem I'm experiencing is the one ski that we had to mess around with to fire won't do anything at all when I push the start button. I replaced the solenoid(not sure if its good either) already because when I shorted it out the starter would start cranking, but it would never fire. Anyways after switching out the solenoid I still get the same problems. My questions are below.

    1. When I short across the solenoid shouldn't the ski fire up? or will the starter just continue to crank? (I did change out the plugs)
    2. Since the other ski fires right up, should I steal the solenoid from it to test or could it become damaged as well?
    3. If the solenoid switch doesn't work should I try stealing the cdi from the other ski that works?

    I've read a lot of similar other problems and could probably troubleshoot it on my own but I'd like to get a head nod from the experts before I screw up both skis. Thanks for the help.


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    So the one that doesn't "fire"
    Does it crank over but just not have spark?
    Or does it not even crank?

  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    #1 Spark
    #2 Compression
    #3 Fuel

    Do you have the lanyard attached? Does it have spark? How is the compression? Have the carbs been cleaned/rebuilt?

  4. #4
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Oh crap Welcome to the Hulk!!!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!
    Quote Originally Posted by dhuber1 View Post
    ...I recently picked up two 1995 SL750s in February.
    ...The problem I'm experiencing is the one ski that we had to mess around with to fire won't do anything at all when I push the start button.

    I replaced the solenoid (not sure if its good either) already because when I shorted it out the starter would start cranking, but it would never fire. Anyways after switching out the solenoid I still get the same problems. My questions are below.

    1. When I short across the solenoid shouldn't the ski fire up? or will the starter just continue to crank? (I did change out the plugs)
    2. Since the other ski fires right up, should I steal the solenoid from it to test or could it become damaged as well?
    3. If the solenoid switch doesn't work should I try stealing the CDI from the other ski that works?...
    You have pressed the reset-able circuit breaker button on the top of the electrical box - yes?

    Check the ground wires on the ski that doesn't crank.

    In fact, check all the wires inside the electrical box. Maybe someone had it apart, and didn't re-connect everything back correctly.

    Check that the Red/Purple wire has 12 battery power.

    When the start button is pressed, it supplies 12 power (from the Red/purple wire) to the Yellow/Red wire to the solenoid. The other side of the solenoid coil goes to battery negative (ground) through the Black wire(s). Check both with a multi-meter.

    Either the start button isn't sending 12 volt power to the solenoid, or the solenoid isn't grounded.

    When you bypass the solenoid to force the starter to crank, the engine should start, IF there is nothing else wrong with the wiring, CDI/stator coils, or carbs/fuel delivery.

    The CDI senses the engine rotation from the stator coils (inside the flywheel), and starts firing the plugs.

    Check the stator coils using the procedure outlined in the 1992-1998 Service Manual

  6. #6

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    Thanks to your help and staring at the schematic and going over all the wires in the box I've finally found the potential problem. The ground wire going to the stator is bad(I think). I didn't get a reading on the multimeter. I used a jump wire to go from the ground in the box to the battery negative terminal and I got crank but no spark. I just held it there for a second so I'm not sure if the engine would have kicked in. Is it ok to just rewire it straight to the battery and chop the ground cable going to the stator?

    Also I promise to get some pics up, but I'm sure there's nothing special. Thanks for all the help and if the engine doesn't turn over after the rewire I might be asking for some more help.

  7. #7

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    Sorry I forgot to answer your questions.

    PH2OCRAFT:
    So the one that doesn't "fire"
    Does it crank over but just not have spark?
    Or does it not even crank? No crank at all

    BEERDART:
    Do you have the lanyard attached? Yes Does it have spark? Not yet How is the compression? They were good about 2 months ago but I'm thinking I should retest them Have the carbs been cleaned/rebuilt? Yes I just finished them a couple days ago

    K447
    You have pressed the reset-able circuit breaker button on the top of the electrical box - yes? Yes

  8. #8

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    I got crank!! I went ahead and ran the wire from the ground within the box(the one with the cdi ground, solenoid ground, and stator ground) to the negative battery terminal. It cranked the starter but it never engaged. I'll be messing around with it tomorrow and hopefully with some help from the greenhulk member and search function I'll figure it out.

    I have the rest of the week off from work and I really really want to take them out to the lake for the first time so I have to get them both running ASAP

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhuber1 View Post
    ...The ground wire going to the stator is bad(I think). I didn't get a reading on the multimeter.
    I used a jump wire to go from the ground in the box to the battery negative terminal and I got crank but no spark.
    I just held it there for a second so I'm not sure if the engine would have kicked in.
    Is it OK to just rewire it straight to the battery and chop the ground cable going to the stator?
    ...
    Quote Originally Posted by dhuber1 View Post
    I got crank!! I went ahead and ran the wire from the ground within the box(the one with the cdi ground, solenoid ground, and stator ground) to the negative battery terminal. It cranked the starter but it never engaged.
    Do you mean the starter did not spin the engine, or you didn't get ignition?
    I'll be messing around with it tomorrow and hopefully with some help from the greenhulk member and search function I'll figure it out.

    I have the rest of the week off from work and I really really want to take them out to the lake for the first time so I have to get them both running ASAP
    Be careful when taking un-proven PWC on the water. Be sure you have a tow plan if one or both fail when you are out there.

    Take hose pinch pliers and tow rope with you.
    You must clamp off the water inlet hose if you need to be towed in (engine not running), or you could fill the engine with water from the exhaust system.

    Sounds like your problems are all electrical ground related.

    I think the stator ground is important. It connects the stator coils with the engine block, and ensures the CDI and ignition (spark plug return path) all share a solid common electrical ground (via the electrical box black wires).

    Check the heavy battery negative cable for solid electrical connection to the engine block. If this becomes corroded or loose, the heavy starter current can fry the stator ground wire.

    Check the stator cable bundle from end to end for signs of over-heating or fraying.

    Pull the black wires off the electrical box, and check each one for proper continuity (zero ohms) between it and the engine block, or what it is supposed to be connected to, depending on the wire.

    Without proper grounding, the electrical system cannot function correctly, in multiple ways.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Be careful when taking un-proven PWC on the water. Be sure you have a tow plan if one or both fail when you are out there. Definitely am aware of that since I've been stranded 3 times with my sportster in the middle of the lake. Bad starter/battery and sucked up the tow rope another time

    Sounds like your problems are all electrical ground related.

    I think the stator ground is important. It connects the stator coils with the engine block, and ensures the CDI and ignition (spark plug return path) all share a solid common electrical ground (via the electrical box black wires). The stator ground is definitely the culprit. once I chope it and looked at some the wire right inside the box I noticed the shielding was broken in a few places and the wires could be seen. So then my question is should I replace the wire to the stator or can I just ground to the battery instead of to the stator. If I do have to run a new wire to the stator I'm assuming its going to a pain since I have to pull the exhaust and potentially the stator to put it in.

    Check the heavy battery negative cable for solid electrical connection to the engine block. If this becomes corroded or loose, the heavy starter current can fry the stator ground wire. The cable is good. Clean connection and the cable is registering good ohms.

    Check the stator cable bundle from end to end for signs of over-heating or fraying. Other than the ground wire fraying I mentioned above nothing else is visibily wrong with the cables going to the stator.
    It did fire this morning after I got enough fuel in the lines and forced the ground from the stator to the battery. I only ran it for 5 seconds since the hose wasn't hooked up. Let me know if that rewired ground is a bad idea and I guess I'll suck it up and strip off the exhaust and stator to replace the wire. Thanks again

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