Thread: 95 SL750 Questions
05-15-2008, 11:35 PM #1
95 SL750 Questions
Hello all (Noobie Ski Owner here )
I have a few questions about my SL750.. This Ski was givin to be as payment for a job and was told that the motors blown it would crank and crank but it won't fire.. well I took ownership opened the hood removed the bin and opened the filler cap and noticed water deposits movin around so I then checked the float which was full of water.. I removed all the fuel lines emptied and blew them out with compressed air (taking care to remove all teh check valves and didn;t blow the tubes to the carbs/fuel pump) and basically flushed EVERYTHING up to the carbs which were bone dry (all the tubes Feeding and exiting the fuel pump were dry as a bone) I refilled all the fuel lines and seperator with new fuel (premix of 35.1 as a precaution) Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the feed to the carbs and it showed activity when I cranked.. well as much as it was getting fuel it still wouldn't fire, I then had the cylinders/caps inspected with a worm cam and the guy said all 3 were fine except #3 which I beleive is the PTO Cylinder it had a brand new sleeve and Piston, but a badly dinged cap.. well I take it back home and use a feeder and prime the carbs .. on the first hit of the starter button with Choke on half and no throttle she fired and ran (Caused a Smoke screen so bad My neighbour thought I set the ski on fire).. so I knew the motor was ok it was just neglected and no one maintained it...(ran it long enough for my jaw to hit the pavement in a state of worry that I may have damaged it ( under 10 seconds) then it hit me I primed with premix LOL)
anyways make a long story short I took it to a Polaris dealer and they said everything was fine but I should look into getting a better fuel delivery system, and #3 cap other then that it was ok to run.. not knowing better I ran it for the season and it ran near perfect except for running out of fuel and having to switch to reserve) unfortunatly 1 CRITICAL component was malfunctioning which was the MFD when sitting the display looked dim but readable when the ski is running all the digits went crazy..
getting close to the end of the season and the little red LED on top of the display started blinking (usually only did that when I crank to start once started it went away) this time it started in the middle of the lake so I killed the motor (yanked the lanyard) and Called on the 2way to get a boat out there to retrive me which they did.. and it was immediatly Trailered and brought back home..
Well Before even cranking the beast I checked the Plugs I had installed at the Polaris dealer the season before and the PTO (Cylinder closest to the battery) was Gunked up so bad that it was probably missing I removed the cap for that cylinder and theres a black patch on the Piston aswell (it was sitting at the lowest point so it was dry, Cyl 1 and 2 were both wet
I also realized and appologise if anyone asks, I don't know the top speed I had it at nor the RPM's the display was unreadable sorry
now here goes the questions
1. what would cause the Little red light to blink..
2. What does IuPi stand for on the MFD (Sorry thats all I could read out of its damaged display last season Im positive theres a few bars missing)
3. I do know now that the Ski is DEFFINATLY now in Limp(Safe Mode)(From what I read) the tank is FULL of brand new fuel and the display Blinks "Fuel" and the gauge shows 1 bar only (tried tilting front then back and never changed for either<--> I had somone cut the MFD housing open and repair the LCD seeing NO ONE has one for sale and they re Hermetically sealed it with Fuel Proof/Waterprood Epoxy Compound used for sealing security boards for outdoor uses)
4. "IS" the fuel pump pictured in fact the problematic one and should it be changed
5. was the gunk buildup in #3 caused by starvation
to take a better look at the ski you can find it here
I also received a bin of oddball trailer/ski parts from the neighbour today and found a Holed and badly beaten Piston in the bin that was stamped STD??
I do know I will most likely replace the Fuel pump with the one you guys have recommended in many of the other posts (3port high flow)
How hard is it to replum and is there any diagrams/instructions on how to properly install it
(Sorry I found out the ONLY polaris dealer close to me Hosed the previous owner BIG time on repairing it $1400+ to rebuild the motor and $950+ to replace a broken fuel cap/filler and the rear seat handle)
Sorry for the long post and I thank you in advance for any advice Im actually targeting another 95 SL750 with an Idle prob as my backup (its a twin to mine) so this will most likely be my resident board for my Ski Mods and probs
out of curiosity is 124.3 hours alot for a ski like this ??? I just saw that on the display
Last edited by Feral; 05-15-2008 at 11:47 PM.
05-15-2008, 11:50 PM #2
Hi Feral, WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!!
Limp home mode with Low Fuel blinking, I'd suggest replacing the fuel float. If it sinks to the bottom, it will show near empty or empty and put you in limp home mode.
Definately upgrade the fuel system and replace all the lines. I'd also replace the fuel selector switch and check the fuel cap and filler neck.
Last edited by ph2ocraft; 05-15-2008 at 11:53 PM.
05-16-2008, 12:21 AM #3
LOL Limp home mode to me with a malfunctioning MFD was more like OH CRUD instant engine kill and TOW home mode hehehe
Oh a FYI for some reason (I just checked) it doesn't blink "Low Fuel" it just blinks "Fuel" then "LoPR" I assume the LoPR is due to the fact its not running and I verified the tank is filled so this is going to be a task Im going to have to siphone it to work on the sender x.x great high Octane Break YUCK I just have to remember not to smoke right after ..
I do know for a fact it has a BRAND NEW filler neck and cap the original/old one was unfortunatly severed and severly broken when the ski nosedive'd and surfaced at the exact same time as they reached the dock so the dock snapped them both clean off)
as for the High Flow 3 port Fuel Pump Its been added to my order list
I will yank out the float check for damage if not I will drop it in a can of fuel and see what happens
Arg I swear they stuck that sender unit in the WORST spots its a pain getting the filler tube off enough to shift the tank JUST enough to move forward enough for the Sender to be pulled out and the tank can't be removed unless ITS removed first x.x
How much do the selector switch's go for???
also I read SOMEWHERE the night before that if you unscrew the filler and it hiss's (air escapes) its a BAD thing ??? and on another it was normal.. ?? which one is it I can tell ya when I opened my filler it let off a hiss the guy 3 pumps down peered over the pump at me with a dazed look LOL
(Update Upon checking the display in its sitting state My Digital addon Volt Meter was showing 11.57 Volts and it seems the MFD malfunctioned ( it was reading a constant 7.6Volts) and just needed to be reset the IuPi was in fact "LOPr" <-> Low Power.. yet again I found the remidy on this site This site Rocks.......)
Last edited by Feral; 05-16-2008 at 12:30 AM.
05-16-2008, 05:59 AM #4
Feral Welcome to the hulk. Yes the fuel tank will and should hiss there is two check valves for the tank one for air in and one for air out they have a cracking pressure of around 3 psi. Try a reset of the MFD.
While on the subject of MFD's and LOPr.
The LOPr will only come on when the battery voltage is under 10.9
Remember power fluctuations (usually caused by loose connections) or electrical noise caused by the ignition system may cause the MFD to lose voltage calibration data. These "events" will also show LOPr.
Check and correct the charging system, battery, battery connections, fuse connections, MFD pin connectors, (pay peticular attention to power and ground connections at the MFD).
To re-set the MFD
Press and hold the MODE and SET keys until the CAL displays. The CAL display will usually show after 4 seconds
Press and hold the SET key
While continuing to hold the SET key ans within 2 seconds of pressing the SET key, press and hold the MODE key
Don't release either key until the MFD shuts down
After the MFD has shut itself down, press the mode key to turn the MFD on
Depress the MODE key repeatedly until voltage is displayed and verify that the voltage reading has been restored.
Display is stuck one one function/display shows all 8's/buttons don't work
This malfuntion can occur when the battery has been disconnected or removed.
It may freeze on any funtion, or with all 8's the MFD is running its self check during power up.
This will usually happen when there is a power glitch and the micro-processor temorarily malfunctions.
It will usually correct itself when you disconnect the battery for a few minutes, it usually takes 2-3 minutes to re-set the micro-processor.
When connecting the battery negative cable, make sure it is a "clean connection. Meaning only let the terminal contact the battery once. DON'T repeatedly contact the battery!! Hold pressure on the cable until the bolt is tight.
If you have problems connecting the battery terminals you can disconnect the MFD, install the cables and then plug the MFD back in (my recomendation).
05-16-2008, 07:23 AM #5
Well when I picked up the Ski I was told outright there was a problem with the MFD that it doesn't display right.. Unfortunatly Calling around my Area Yeilded a bunch of people who 1. told me my model of jetski didn;t have a display and the rest said they don't have any, I hit up a bunch of online suppliers and none have any so my buddy said he will open it up and repair it (he's an electronics technition)
I will do the reset on the MFD hopefully it will solve the LOPr I did notice on idle it would never display but sometimes on WOT or choppy water the display was blinking that
anyways just behind the second lip he used a cutter wheel on a dremil and cut the housing open and found out these displays were inadiquatly designed for there purpose they used a rubber tracebar (its commin for them to Shrink/Degrade from heat/age) to connect the lcd to the IC board he compleatly disconnected the IC board and cleaned it then applied a sealer to the non trace side cleaned and sealed the IC traces for the LCD installed a Custom cut felt spacer between the Clear display and the actual LCD.. he then Dipped the remaining parts ( harness and connector in a corrosion cleaner to clean the outer pins, sealed off the external connector with the treated pins dropped in 2 new moisture remover packets reattached the 2 peices together, Pinned the center and corners sealed the cut seam ( he noted a few white/opaque spots where the clear screen is sealed to the housing and said its either heat damaged or the seal failed then dipped the whole unit in a Grey Hermetically sealing epoxy, let it dry capped off the buttons then dipped the clear portion of the MFD in a UV resistant clear sealer and let it dry.. I then blasted the connector from the ski to the MFD with contact cleaner and used a Cleaner brush on the connector and all the pins applied a generous amount of Diletic grease reconnected and the display and it came back to life with a strong LCD instead of bleached and missing characters .. all and all it reinstalled without a prob with the original faceplate
now all I need to know is why was the third Plug/piston (Cylinder closest to the back of the boat) so badly gunged up, I will grab pics of the beat up head and the new piston with the already thick patch of gunk on the face..
I want to Fix/repair and update any peices within the next few weeks..
Last edited by Feral; 05-16-2008 at 07:39 AM.
05-16-2008, 07:53 AM #6
Feral Welcome to the hulk! You have found the very best place for information sharing and cool bunch of PWC addicts on the planet .
If your friend is interested you should let him know to post services on here for the MFD repair. We have some posts on here on how to fix the MFD's but the MFD's are extremely hard to come by and some members may not want to risk pulling it apart themselves and fixing it as it is delicate work and one mistake could cost you some cash on ebay in a bidding war to find another one. Sounds like he did an excellent job fixing yours and others may be interested in having him fix theirs. Just a thought, he may not be intersted, but I think there may be some demand for his services if he is.
05-16-2008, 08:25 AM #7
I will let him know.. it took him pretty much the whole day to deal with mine, it cost me dinner and a case a beer LOL
Nah my display was so bad that as I mentioned before that it displayed "IuPi" as "LOPr" only 3 marks on my trim bar would show, No Fuel Bars, No Oil Bars aswell as the lower right where it shows what your displaying never shows and to be honest I didn't even know they were down there so it wasn't really a big chance for me and you are correct these MFD's are getting extreamly rare (Still search's for a backup MFD)
right now I still have a few worries on this ski, Cottage time is comin up soon and with my schedule I won;t have alot of time
this is why I want to find out what caused the gunk in #3 and could it of been caused by Fuel Starvation.. if so the new 3port high flow Pump I just ordered will fix it ( I Hope )
05-16-2008, 11:37 PM #8
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Cleveland OH
Pics will help alot......
05-16-2008, 11:46 PM #9
Well Im boned My Ski is grounded with electrical probs, its not goin to the cottage on this run
I 2 amp trickle charged it over night and connected my Fluke Multimeter to it and it showed 13.35 volts to the battery, I set the meter to load test it the meter load tested it and displayed Passed on its CCA gauge it showed 11 out of 12 bars (battery is not even a year old, its stored in its container in my basement on my shelf with all the other batteries for my toys) I brushed down the terminals of both the battery and Leads I reconnected the termals back to there posts (used electronic jumper cables to the leads while I screw them in as per Beerdarts recommendation (prevent arcing and surging the electrical system) the computer reset started Blinking "FUEL" then when I tried going to volts it displayed "LOPr" then I reset it with the combination of button press's and it displayed the same when it came back on and it showed 8.3 volts Im gunna have to pull the electrical and verify everything then reroute all the cables from being strewn all over the engine bay down one side and clean it up x.x
Im actually thinking of replacing the lead and wires as there dirty and getting kinked
05-17-2008, 12:32 AM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Cleveland OH
Check for solid ground wire connections at the engine plate and inside the elec box.
Also ohm test the elec stator while your in there just to be sure.
It may also be a faulty regulator?
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