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  1. #1
    hbski's Avatar
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    Ride Plate Truing

    Saw there was a thread on this but it was pretty old and long.

    I am surprised that more of the long boats (GTX,RXT) are not truing rideplates. These things typically come from the factory with a downswept rideplate. Meaning that the back of the ride plate is lower than the front, effectively pushing more of the bow into the water. Just take a 3 foot or longer straight edge and place it on the hull in front of the ride plate and leave about a foot or so overlapping the ride plate and you should be able to see this.

    I removed mine on my N/A boat and shimmed the front with stainless washers and ground down the aft stand-offs. All very low tech and gained 1-2 mph as I recall. It also afforded me the opportunity to clean-up the whole area a little bit, as they typically glob the sealent around like crazy in those areas.

    As for difficulty? The boat was a year and a half old probably 50 hours on it and did not have any trouble with spinning inserts. Only issue I had was that I broke a grate bolt, which I have not repaired yet and no issues with that for 30-40 hours since it is glued down pretty well with Right Stuff.

    In a nut shell: Measure the deviation from a true hull line fore / aft / left / right so that you will know how much to shim or grind before reassembly. Drain the coolant. Pull the hoses AND connectors from inside the hull. Pull the pump. Pull the grate. Cut as much hull to ride plate sealant away as possible. Put a bottle jack in the pump cavity with boards top and bottom to distribute the load from the jack. Apply some pressure with the jack, cut, more pressure, cut, more pressure, cut.... til it comes off. Then clean everything off, grind, shim, reassemble. Time consuming...yes. Difficult....not really.

    I will be doing the S/C I just bought either later in the year or over the "winter" along with some other mods. It is a good one to do along with the exahuast and waterboxes, as you need to pull that stuff for access anyway.


  2. #2
    Yuji's Avatar
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    how does this affect the "on plane" time and holeshot?

  3. #3
    hbski's Avatar
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    Now you're taxing my memory. It was nearly 2 years ago that I did this. I don't really recall anything exept that it gained 1-2 mph on top. I do know that there were no negative effects.

    Theoretically, since you are keeping more of the bow out of the water you should be faster to plane and have a better hole shot. Although those are pretty short term events at lower speeds and this is more of a top speed mod so I would expect little noticible change to both.

    Keep in mind I already had a wedge at this point, so part of the gain may have been from allowing the wedge to work better. Particularly since installing my wedge produced very little result on its own.

    It may not produce this kind of gain for every set up with the amount of variability in hulls and assembly of components from the factory. Some could gain more, some less.

  4. #4
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    did you TRUE the actual rideplate... or just play with the mounting pads on the underside?

    maybe u saw the threads with all the work i'm putting into my hull and rideplate? the rideplate ITSELF does not drop down, it actually feathers it's way up towards the back edge. the rideplate when INSTALLED does hang lower.

    the rideplate is not true with the hull, and in addition the rideplate is not true in and of itself... i'm doing both and then some.

  5. #5
    hbski's Avatar
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    Yeah, I remember the ride plate itself having a bit of curvature from front to back which isn't ideal of course. I belt sanded mine as much as I felt comfortable with. My main goal was to get the average front to back line of the ride plate true to the hull, so I focused on the mounts rather than "straightening" the ride plate itself.

    I remember seeing your post with pics. Looks like good stuff you're doing. I'd be surprised if you got a huge gain out of truing the hull itself, but I'd do it too if I had the time, just because.

  6. #6
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbski
    I remember seeing your post with pics. Looks like good stuff you're doing. I'd be surprised if you got a huge gain out of truing the hull itself, but I'd do it too if I had the time, just because.
    you'd be shocked to know how messy and wavy the hulls are from the factory. my biggest gain i expect to be in the handling department from doing the hull itself, but i HOPE to see something like 2mph from both the hull and rideplate combined. we'll see.

    i'm glad someone else has tried playing with the rideplate and had success doing it

  7. #7
    hbski's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've been under both of mine and truing the hull itself is tempting, but the big gain from the rideplate is from keeping more of the hull out of the water. Basically the way they are stock it's like having trim tabs set too far down on a boat and forcing the bow down. As I recall, it was the biggest gain for my N/A boat. However, as I mentioned it may have been from everything, but since I was still dragging too much hull through the water the other mods may have not realized their full potential. It's not even a given that it will help on every boat, since they are pretty random with the relative position of the ride plate, grate and hull. A friend of mine has done his SC and it helped his out as well and my SC looks pretty off and will be done as well. One of the best almost free speed mods there is.

  8. #8

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    Shibby, are you sanding down the hull to match the rideplate? My hull is quite a bit lower compared to the rideplate. I bet you get at least 2 mph out of that. Did you ever sand and fill your rideplate holes before you took it apart?

  9. #9
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrchinup
    Shibby, are you sanding down the hull to match the rideplate? My hull is quite a bit lower compared to the rideplate. I bet you get at least 2 mph out of that. Did you ever sand and fill your rideplate holes before you took it apart?
    my rideplate holes were filled for about 5 mnutes until i lost 3 of em. never filled the intake grate holes, and never made the grate and rideplate flush. once i get the hull back, i will flip it over again and probably spend a day with a laser level, some grinders and sanders playing with my intake grate and rideplate and their angles in comparison to the new hull truing job. something i want to take into account is also the angle of the jet pump housing out the back of the ski in relation to the rideplate. been reading alot about the GPR hull dynamics and want to apply as much of it as logically possible to my ski.

    i believe i'm going to pick up the hull later this week, or early next week. it's kinda in a hectic time bc i'm going to DC/VA for the AWA freedom ride. but i'll be on the water next week regardless after i get the parts i'm waiting for and assemble everything.

    i'd like to "bet" i gain 2mph, but i'm cheap and running out of money after i get it back, assembled, and install all the parts i have, it's gonna be a supercharger mod and i'm done need the rest of the money i have left in my bank account to pay car insurance and car payments for the rest of the year that i dont work while i'm in school.

    i'll keep ya posted with my testing as i have alot on my plate for us 3-seaters in the coming weeks and hope to spend alot of time going in and out at the launch ramp consecutively to get some real results and gains and loses from each little thing.

  10. #10

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    ride plate

    True the hull and then true the ride plate with the hull. Smooooooth

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