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Thread: stator testing

  1. #1
    seaobin's Avatar
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    stator testing

    94 sl750

    So I had intermitent spark. Pulled the electrical box, everything is dry. Good ground to engine, starter does great, battery fully charged.

    Pulled the stator wirer and here are the results

    R/P-Y= .8 O
    W/Y - B = 5.6M O WTF
    B/R - R/W = 88 O
    R/W - G/R 492 O

    L Coil B/W-B .2 O B-Boot = 8.7K O
    M Coil B/W-B .8 O B-Boot = 8.1K O
    R Coil B/W-B .6 O B-Boot = 8.26K O

    I don't want to pull the fu*king motor again.

    What would cause essencially a full open on the W/Y Wire

    Guess I need a new stator.

    Should/Do I need a new CDI as well????

    Is there any way to check a CDI


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    No way to check a CDI by testing per say. Only eliminate other componenets. And if all esle test good, then replace the CDI. BUT if you have another to try, you can test like that.

    You don't need to pull the engine in that year. Remove the fuel and oil tanks, then remove the stator through the hood. I've done this in under 2 hrs. before. But, I do it all the time so I am very experienced at it. Same ski 94 SL 650.

  3. #3
    seaobin's Avatar
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    how do you get the flywheel off in the boat?

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Rope in the MAG cylinder to keep it from turning.

    1/2" breaker bar with extension for flywheel nut

    Then crank the flywheel puller real tight, and smack it with a hammer on the end. Usually "pops" that baby off.

    Most likely will need an impact screwdriver to remove the stator screws

  5. #5
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    Does anyone rebuild stators, or are these just replacements at this point.

    Still cant get the damn flywheel off. under pressure for two days. heat, hammer, etc. We will see when it lets go

    Sean

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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Rope in the MAG cylinder to keep it from turning.

    1/2" breaker bar with extension for flywheel nut

    Then crank the flywheel puller real tight, and smack it with a hammer on the end. Usually "pops" that baby off.

    Most likely will need an impact screwdriver to remove the stator screws
    That method had always for worked for me.

  7. #7
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Thats what I have been told. Maybe I need a better flywheel puller

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Crank it down REAL tight. Then don't be shy, smack the long bolt pretty good. Just don't get scared when she "pops".

    The stator can be rebuilt. Jetski solutions I think is the place Al recommends. But it's usually cheaper and faster to buy a used one. 750 or 780 both interchangeable. timing marks may be off a tad though. So keep the old one and transfer it's position on the new one for installation without re-timing.

  9. #9
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Hey all,

    Thanks to Tony for lending me his flywheel puller, ACE hardware for the 10.1 Rated 8 1.25 bolts, a craftsman inpact wrench, and about 10 minutes with a propane torch. The be'atch is off. Got the stator out and have been retesting to make sure this is the problem. Open between R/W and G/R, looks like it got hot!!!

    I did however notice a small amount of fluid (1/4") in the bottem of the stator housing. Should I be concerned with this? Looked like oil.

    Could this have been causing my High Ohm between White and Black the first time? This issue is no longer. Right at 220 Ohms (Actually 219.6)

    Stator is bad, so I will need a stator for the 750. Which can I use? 650 750 780 Right?????


    Thanks

    Sean

  10. #10
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    rehitting this, becasue I posted it right before the system shutdown

    Anyone have a stator they want to part with?

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