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Thread: Regulators

  1. #1

    Regulators

    I bought a Polaris SL780 from a guy who could not get it started I am new to this.

    I start it and run into the following problems

    1. There is a lot of oil blow out at the back (Black) it do not stop. At one stage ther were a lot of oil (White) on the ground.
    2. The ski refs do not pickup?
    3. Cylinder 2 and 3 were test 120 and 1 test 110 compression. After run for awhile now Cylinder 1,2 and 3 test 100.
    4. Cylinder 1 getting hot while the others is still cold

    Can any one please help me with what following order I need to eliminate the problems?

    How can I test the regulators LR 23 and LR 54 and were can I order it from? Reading the forum it looks like it also can be damage

    What reeds is the best for this ski?


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!!

    Running the engine on the hose will always leave the front cylinder hotter than the others.
    Don't run it on the hose too long as damage may occur.
    Are you starting the engine and then turning on the water?
    When you shut it off, turn off the water, clear the engine and then shut it off.
    You don't want water entering the system while the engine is NOT running.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christiaan View Post
    I bought a Polaris SL780 from a guy who could not get it started I am new to this.
    ...
    1. There is a lot of oil blow out at the back (Black) it do not stop. At one stage there was a lot of oil (White) on the ground.
    2. The ski refs do not pickup?
    ...

    Can any one please help me with what following order I need to eliminate the problems?

    How can I test the regulators LR 23 and LR 54 and were can I order it from? Reading the forum it looks like it also can be damage
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    What model year is your SL 780?
    Do you know how many hours are on the engine?

    If you have not done so already, be sure to download the 1992-1998 Service Manual.

    Was the engine fogged by the previous owner (fogging oil sprayed into the engine air intakes to protect it during storage)?
    That can produce a lot of smoke and oil out the exhaust until it burns off.

    Have you removed the reeds?
    If yes, is there any water+oil (whitish goop) inside the crankcase?

    What makes you think the LR voltage regulator(s) are a problem?

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replay I really appreciated it

    According to the papers it is a 1996 model. The guy told me that he got no record of it and do not know how it been treated. All I know is that the previous owners did not look well after it.

    Yes I have removed the reeds and as far as I can see there is no water+oil (whitish goop) inside the crankcase.

    What I read on the forum is that if the bulge pump keep on running is a sign also some fuses are pop, The on and of switch do not work. Is there a way to test the LR 23 and LR54?

    Thanks for the info about the cylinder. And yes I done the correct way start it with water of and switch water or before shut it off. One of the things I learn on this forum.

    Why is there a drop in the compression from 120 to 100? I open it and it still looks good.

    What are the best reeds that I can put in?

    Thanks again for all the help

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    Moto Tassinari V Force II reeds or Boyesen RAD valves are best $370 or so

    Carbon Tech are real good $150

    Boyesen dual stage are good also $110

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christiaan View Post
    ...What I read on the forum is that if the bulge pump keep on running is a sign also some fuses are pop, The on and of switch do not work. Is there a way to test the LR 23 and LR54?...
    If the bilge pump runs when the engine is not running, then either the bilge pump SWITCH or wires are bad, or the LR voltage regulator has failed.

    The LR controls power to the Orange wire, which powers the bilge pump. When the engine is running, the LR senses the motor rotating (via the Yellow wire), and connects power to the Orange wire.

    When the engine stops, the LR is supposed to stop supplying power to the Orange wire.

    You should confirm that the bilge pump is actually connected properly to the Orange and black wires. If it is correct, then disconnect the Orange wire coming from the LR, and see if the bilge pump stops running.

    If it stops, then you need a new LR.

    If the pump keeps running, check the bilge switch and wiring.

  7. #7

    Thumbs down

    Thanks I test as you say and I need one. Were can I buy one?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christiaan View Post
    Thanks I test as you say and I need one.
    Were can I buy one?
    Search is your friend;

    Online Polaris PWC parts sources, also www.bikebandit.com

  9. #9

  10. #10

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    The bildge will also not stop if the battery is hooked up backwards.

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