Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Western Slope, Colorado
    Posts
    4

    Another SLT 780 won't start

    Hi all. No intent to hijack the thread posted by cnicholas and being my first post...I'm just curious as to the outcome as it seems that I am having the EXACT same issues with my new-to-me 780 SLT. Test drove it....bought it....next day...starter won't turn over....same symtoms as cnicholas describes. Nearest shop is 2 hours away for me....I have not bypassed starter solenoid to see if starter turns....bought new battery...no change. I do not hear the clicking from the starter location but a "buzzing" from the electrical box. I'm pretty mechanical but have never torn into a PWC before. Shop says they can get to it in 2 weeks! Ouch! Seemed to run perfect the day before...

    This site and you guys ROCK by the way....what a great group and good info. I did download the shop manual....and page through the 500+ pages briefly.....

    Any different thoughts? I don't know what the bendix is, but is that an option of what could have gone bad?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,589
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Fourbycor View Post
    ... new-to-me 780 SLT.
    Test drove it....bought it....next day...starter won't turn over....same symptoms as cnicholas describes. Nearest shop is 2 hours away for me.
    ...I have not bypassed starter solenoid to see if starter turns....bought new battery...no change. I do not hear the clicking from the starter location but a "buzzing" from the electrical box.

    I'm pretty mechanical but have never torn into a PWC before. Shop says they can get to it in 2 weeks! Ouch! Seemed to run perfect the day before...

    This site and you guys ROCK by the way....what a great group and good info. I did download the shop manual....and page through the 500+ pages briefly.....

    Any different thoughts? I don't know what the bendix is, but is that an option of what could have gone bad?
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    What model year is your SLT 780?
    (Last two digits of the HIN number on the metal deck plate)

    Disconnect the battery negative. Check the battery negative cable for a good connection to the engine block with an ohmmeter (zero ohms = good).

    Open up the electrical box, and confirm that there is no water or corrosion inside. Ensure the solenoid connections are clean and solid.

    Use the ohmmeter to confirm that the thin black wires inside the box have a good connection to the engine block (zero ohms = good).

    Disconnect the battery negative connection while opening up the electrical box (to minimize the possibility of an accidental short), then reconnect the battery when you are ready to do your tests.

    Set the meter to measure DC volts, and connect it across the battery posts. Confirm you have 12.6 volts or better (indicating a healthy and fully charged battery). Then press the start button, and watch what the voltage drops to. If it drops below 11 volts, there is something wrong.

    The buzzing sound is probably the starter solenoid. Either it has gone bad, or there is a problem with the cables connecting the battery power to the engine and/or the solenoid. I suppose the starter could have developed a short...

    The Bendix is the gear assembly that links the starter motor shaft with the ring gear teeth on the flywheel, which then spins the engine. When the starter power is removed, the Bendix retracts from the flywheel, allowing the engine to run without spinning the starter motor gears.

  3. #3
    TimAtkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Hillsboro Ohio
    Posts
    156
    Welcome,

    I would remove the PTO coupler cover (the thing right behind the engine held onto the driveshaft with a clamp, remove the clamp and just pull it off, and turn the engine over by hand, this will let you know for sure weather or not your problem is in the engine or starter. If it turns over, then you know it is a bad connection/starter and can go from there. If it does not turn over/binds ect remove the water bar/domes and check the pistons for a foriegn object (not very likely)

    Next I would remove the starter and try it off the engine if it works then the problem is most likely in the starter bendix. If the starter is inop, then the problem is electrical or just a bad starter. You can bench test the starter easily at any parts store, or at home.

    Good luck man if you need more help just let me know.
    Tim

  4. #4

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Western Slope, Colorado
    Posts
    4
    So I ran out and threw my meter on the battery and it measured about 12.58 volts, after I connect the negative cable and hit the start button it drops to around +-4 volts and gets erratic and shows -+8 volts...but nothing higher than that....I have not pulled the electrical box yet.

    Thanks for the quick responses....and I'm pretty sure it's a 1996...

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,589
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Fourbycor View Post
    So I ran out and threw my meter on the battery and it measured about 12.58 volts, after I connect the negative cable and hit the start button it drops to around +-4 volts and gets erratic and shows -+8 volts...but nothing higher than that....I have not pulled the electrical box yet.

    Thanks for the quick responses....and I'm pretty sure it's a 1996...
    Did you connect the meter probes directly onto the battery posts, or onto the screws or cables ends connected to the battery?

    4 to 8 volts measured at the battery means you either have a weak/defective battery, bad connections at the battery, or a shorted starter.

    The buzzing indicates that when the solenoid connects power to the starter motor, the voltage instantly drops so low that the solenoid cannot maintain the contact. So it releases the starter connection, the voltage rises, and the solenoid reconnects, several times per second!

    The issue is why the voltage is dropping so much. Either the starter's AMP draw is excessive (short), or the battery/cables are not good.

    BTW, once you do get the problem fixed, that solenoid has been abused by the rapid cycling (buzzing = internal electric arcing), and may not be in good shape for much longer. I would change it for a new one, once you get the main problem addressed.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Western Slope, Colorado
    Posts
    4
    I connected the positive probe to the top of the screw that attaches the cable to the post and for the negative side I ran the probe through the hole in the cable and into the hole on the post where the screw should go and held everything in place with my hand while my friend pushed the start button. Not knowing that I should not "jump start" my Polaris, while we were at Lake Powell this past weekend I did attempt to "jump start" the PWC but had no luck. BUT, while we were attempting to do so, I noticed the voltage gauge in the boat we were jumping from would go to "zero" when we tried to start the PWC.
    Also, I did purchase a new battery while at the Lake (I really wanted to ride it!) and had the exact same results, so I'm thinking that my battery should be fine....I'm leaning towards starter problem.
    Tomorrow I will remove the cover and try to spin the motor by hand...if thats ok should I attempt to bypass the solenoid at all?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,589
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Fourbycor View Post
    I connected the positive probe to the top of the screw that attaches the cable to the post and for the negative side I ran the probe through the hole in the cable and into the hole on the post where the screw should go and held everything in place with my hand while my friend pushed the start button. Not knowing that I should not "jump start" my Polaris, while we were at Lake Powell this past weekend I did attempt to "jump start" the PWC but had no luck. BUT, while we were attempting to do so, I noticed the voltage gauge in the boat we were jumping from would go to "zero" when we tried to start the PWC.
    Also, I did purchase a new battery while at the Lake (I really wanted to ride it!) and had the exact same results, so I'm thinking that my battery should be fine....I'm leaning towards starter problem.
    Tomorrow I will remove the cover and try to spin the motor by hand...if thats ok should I attempt to bypass the solenoid at all?
    Solenoid is good, I think.

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,329
    +1
    31
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    Put 12v directly to the starter and see what happens.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 1996 SLT 780 will not start, no spark
    By def in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 76
    Last Post: 09-02-2014, 11:49 PM
  2. 1997 SLT 700 won't start
    By todd451 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-13-2012, 03:22 PM
  3. My 1996 SLT 780 won't start, just clicking sound please help!!
    By smitty564 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-28-2011, 08:35 AM
  4. slt 750 won't start
    By lockaby32 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 07-27-2011, 01:41 PM
  5. HELP PLEASE! 96' SLT 780 won't turn over
    By cnicholas in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 06-20-2008, 10:52 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •