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  1. #1

    I need to build a shoreline pwc ramp

    Would any of you fine people out there have any info on building a drive on ramp/dock either made of pvc or wood with bunk material on it? I am a carpenter by trade and know this is a workable Idea. I have searched the web and NO body has anything they would like to share . Please help me fellow waverunners!


  2. #2

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    I have seen some made with a floating wood structure and then having some large PVC pipes going off of the wood into the water to drive up on

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Drive on meaning run the PWC onto it from the water?

    You want to power the boat up the bunks to get it above the waterlevel?

    I presume you know about the floating drive on plastic docks for PWC, but that is not what you want to do.

    One thing to keep in mind is that repeated power loading onto fixed wood bunks can create stress cracks in the hull, where the hull initially meets the bunks each time.

    This is one of the reasons why you need to back a trailer far enough into the water that the ski floats most of the way onto the bunks - to avoid potential hull damage.

  4. #4
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    2x8 x16's, aluminum l brackets secured to the shore and lake bed with 1" x 3' galv. pipe. I think I used 2' cenetr to center on the bunks, but if I did it agian i would probably go 18". Lasted a few years until the ice took it out this year.I believe it was 8' wide.

    I think there are a few more pics in my for sale thread for the sl. I can't find them on my confuser.
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  5. #5
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    water is above normal in the side picture. the whole ski was out of the water, but the covers were always wet from the waves.

    I found a few more pictures. from early this year and a drawdown a few years ago. I'm sure the design can be improved, but it worked for me. As far as the hull cracking from the abuse, 1000 lbs hanging off of a 16' span is not rigid. it bounced alot. i would just idle up and then gun it and hit the stop button. the winches would bring it up and hold it. to launch, just disconnect, jerk your weight back and it would slide down and tun around on its own. hit the green button and you're gone
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    Last edited by addicted; 03-18-2009 at 07:59 AM.

  6. #6
    ShaneG's Avatar
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    I built a cart out of PVC and added wheels. I may have the plans. Pretty easy and if you use SS hardware you can leave it it the water at a depth that works for holding the ski in. Its pretty cool and you can take it in and out at the begining and end of each season.

    The directions are complete down to cuts, sizes, and drill hole locations.

    Shane

  7. #7
    1996 SL900 & SL700 turk0004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaneG View Post
    I built a cart out of PVC and added wheels. I may have the plans. Pretty easy and if you use SS hardware you can leave it it the water at a depth that works for holding the ski in. Its pretty cool and you can take it in and out at the begining and end of each season.

    The directions are complete down to cuts, sizes, and drill hole locations.

    Shane
    Hey Shane, if you do find the plans, can you post them or PM them to me?

    Thanks

    Turk

  8. #8
    2000 pro 785 (son's) 1998 pro 785 (dads) old guy in mich's Avatar
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    depending on where you live, here in the lower mich smaller (2 seater) lifts are real cheap. most new skis (3 seater barges) are heavier and require bigger lifts ei bunches of smaller lifts for sale, so if you can go for a lift theres an option. got 2 for a little over $100 each.

    drive ons concern me from the fact that they are shallow and if you drive on you take a chance of sucking up buttom stuff. (makes really nasty sounds as stones pass thru your pump).
    Last edited by old guy in mich; 05-30-2008 at 08:32 AM.

  9. #9
    ShaneG's Avatar
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    Sure can. let me look.

  10. #10
    seaobin's Avatar
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    heres one my brother built on the Ohio river


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