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  1. #1

    Exclamation Nitro, Am I screwed?

    Heres the background. i bought an 02 f12x with 108 hours on it, when i went to see it the seller started it up with the hose on it and it was running really rough. so he took the plugs out, they were fouled, he cleaned them , put them back into the ski and the thing purred. I said great, the motor looked very well maintained he showed me the maintainence tips and also showed me the storage tip for the injectors about unscrewing the small silver coupler and lubing them making sure to do it with a non silcon based lube (he seemed very knowlidgeable) . so i bought it put it in the water I hit 53 mph on the "False O Meter" it then started to stutter almost like you hit the rev limiter (i have no idea, my first ski) it would bounce at 53 mph for 5 sec or so and then it kicked my revs down to1500 to 2000 and started the audible warning beep along with the FI light blinking. So i turned it off, then back on and it was good to go again untill i hit the same WOT and the same thing happened, alarm and all. I then called the previous owner and asked him about it , he the said it would do that a few times after you lube the injectors??? i just dont see how it runs great until you get to 53 then it falls apart unless the plugs are still junk and the cnt burn off the fuel fast enough?? just a theory... I did find your procedure on how to get the codes out , but i dont have any books yet on what the codes mean. Where should I start with this, I just hope I didnt buy a really expensive paper weight.
    I guess i might start with the waste gate check? let ke know any help would be great! Thanks for your time.
    Last edited by badassbusa; 05-28-2008 at 09:24 AM.


  2. #2

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    I'd suggest getting yourself a set of new plugs as a starting point since I found that cleaning the Iridium plugs didn't solve my issues after I fouled them on Day #1 of ownership (2003 F12X with 34 hours). Mine acted very weird at first until I got a new set and now runs great (50 hours now). Could also be some bad gas if he had old gas in it as well. Mine wasn't throwing codes though like yours so I'm sure Nitro will have a more details on what to check first. Good luck with it.

  3. #3
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Use the posted proceedure to read the codes and post them. We will see if we can help. Advance Auto Parts has the cheapest plugs.
    JR

  4. #4
    well for some updated news, i got therear grab bar off and side panels looked in the back and low and behold there was a fair amount of surface rust on and around the waste gate area. i already had crc 656 so i hosed it down, while that was soaking i checked the WGS while the ski was off and you COULD NOT blow through it, i tried both tubes, so i took it off opened it and inspected it, looked clean no rust or cracks so I put it back together and tried again still couldn't blow through. put the ski back together put the hose on and fired it up, then when the ski was idle it would let me blow through it. Now my question is when you blow should the feeling be PULSED like the wgs is a pulsed signal instead of constant??? it was a very fast pulse, open shut open shut that is how it felt to me. IS that right or should I get a new one? any help would be great thanks!

  5. #5
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    The waste gate is a PWM signal and if you can blow through it [at all] at idle it is probably OK. Since I cleaned/lubed my WGS it has run flawlessly for several years now. A little CRC in the WGS goes a long ways, too much could slow it down/stop it.
    JR

  6. #6
    thanks JR

    im going to put it in the h20 when i get it back together, i will post my findings.

  7. #7

    Thumbs up UPDATE

    after some more tinkering and research I decided to check the wastegate since the previous owner did not think about maintence too much (lots of surface rust). I hooked up the blow gun to the pressure actuator and low and behold the wastegate linkage was stuck shut!! which is definatly going to start throwing it into limp mode at high revs due to overboost knock and a slew of other conditions. After getting my channel locks out (no vice grips used on this) i made them large enough to encompas the smaller linkage arm and the stem between the compressor housing and the exhaust. after about10 to 15 min of hosing down the linkage with crc 656 and gently opening the gate with the channel locks and closing it again with a large flat screwdriver I can now happily say that the linkage is no longer binding and moving freely. NOW i will put it back together and let everyone know the results. So if you have problems like these, and i seen plenty of people say maintain the linkage, Check it first. And thanks to everyone on the forums for their help and suggestions.

  8. #8
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badassbusa View Post
    after some more tinkering and research I decided to check the wastegate since the previous owner did not think about maintence too much (lots of surface rust). I hooked up the blow gun to the pressure actuator and low and behold the wastegate linkage was stuck shut!! which is definatly going to start throwing it into limp mode at high revs due to overboost knock and a slew of other conditions. After getting my channel locks out (no vice grips used on this) i made them large enough to encompas the smaller linkage arm and the stem between the compressor housing and the exhaust. after about10 to 15 min of hosing down the linkage with crc 656 and gently opening the gate with the channel locks and closing it again with a large flat screwdriver I can now happily say that the linkage is no longer binding and moving freely. NOW i will put it back together and let everyone know the results. So if you have problems like these, and i seen plenty of people say maintain the linkage, Check it first. And thanks to everyone on the forums for their help and suggestions.
    That is great, you just saved yourself a new turbo. That is probably why he sold you the 'ski. Call him up and tell him how great it runs now!
    JR

  9. #9
    Well I pulled the code out of the ski and it was a 45, so its an actuator or the wgs so i think i will just relpace both... does any one know what the part number for the actuator is , i tried looking on the parts blow out but it just shows the turbo as #13 with no breakdown of the actuator. When i applied air to mine i took about 15 lbs to move it, I saw on the forums that it should only take 8 to start to see it move. So i think that its out of its limits or still sticks occasionaly. It cant be that much so i would just like to replace it to make sure. Thanks guys.

  10. #10
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badassbusa View Post
    Well I pulled the code out of the ski and it was a 45, so its an actuator or the wgs so i think i will just relpace both... does any one know what the part number for the actuator is , i tried looking on the parts blow out but it just shows the turbo as #13 with no breakdown of the actuator. When i applied air to mine i took about 15 lbs to move it, I saw on the forums that it should only take 8 to start to see it move. So i think that its out of its limits or still sticks occasionaly. It cant be that much so i would just like to replace it to make sure. Thanks guys.
    The actuator is part of the complete turbo assembly. I would keep working it back/forth with air pressure/CRC until it freed up some. There have been people on here who found replacement actuators at a turbo repair shop.

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