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  1. #1

    The new guy again....

    I've been looking everywhere for this without any luck... It might seem like a stupid question, but I think there is no such thing as a stupid question. Here it goes, Is there any potential for problems if the propeler/ jet drive or whatever is called gets a little dusty while I repair the hull on this ski? I removed the plate and grate underneath because I'm going to change the color (I'll be able to do a little better of a job) and another thing is it really that critical that I fill that gap between the plate and the hull? Thanks to all in advance...


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by painter13 View Post
    I've been looking everywhere for this without any luck...
    It might seem like a stupid question, but I think there is no such thing as a stupid question.
    Most of us here would agree with you!

    Here it goes, Is there any potential for problems if the propeller/ jet drive or whatever is called gets a little dusty while I repair the hull on this ski?
    I removed the plate and grate underneath because I'm going to change the color (I'll be able to do a little better of a job) and another thing is it really that critical that I fill that gap between the plate and the hull? Thanks to all in advance...
    As long as the greased bearings and seals inside the jet pump stator (the section with the fixed blades) are not sitting exposed to the dust, there should not be a problem. Some guys have extra jet pumps sitting around for years.

    If you have not already, download the appropriate Service Manual. It has specific info regarding sealing the ride plate and jet pump intake areas.

    If you have not removed the jet pump body, you should know that it is not that hard to do. The service manual tells you how.

    With the pump and drive shaft removed you would just have the short pump base section to mask off on the outside (and cover the drive shaft fittings inside the hull, just to keep dust out of those bearings).

    The actual pump base is bolted and bonded to the hull, so you don't want to mess with it.

    The main issue is that there can be NO (zero) air leaks (even pin hole sized) between the intake hardware and the hull. Any air that gets into the jet pump with the water flow reduces thrust. The jet pump creates suction, so the air space above the ride plate must be sealed off from the intake area.

    Also, the ride plate and intake grate must be smoothly sealed to the hull, so that there is no unnecessary water turbulence at speed. When the PWC is running at top speed, only a small portion of the rear hull is actually touching the water, so the water pressure and speed of the water flow past the hull is very high.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the info! Is it difficult removing the drive with the ski upside down?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by painter13 View Post
    Thanks for the info!
    Is it difficult removing the drive with the ski upside down?
    With the engine is still mounted in the ski, the inverted engine weight may have stretched the rubber engine mounts enough that the drive shaft splines may bind in the greased coupler on the rear of the engine.

    Normally, the drive shaft just slides right out (with a little grunting on your part), but with the ski inverted, it may not want to come out.

    The jet pump itself should come off no problem, however, even upside down. Remove the four LONG bolts ONLY. Also loosen any small hoses are connected to the side of the nozzle, and disconnect any linkages for steering, reverse, etc.

    Then work the entire pump body with a side to side motion, and it should come straight out. Sometimes the drive shaft comes out with the pump, sometimes it stays behind.

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