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  1. #1

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    Whats this for? (Pics)

    Im not shure what these are for. (the things with the chain attached to the cap) I am assuming its for flushing out the engines. By connecting a water hose to it, can I run the engines as if the boat was in water?
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  2. #2

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    Exactly. They're for flushing the engine's cooling system while out of the water.

    Each engine has two flush connection points; one as you described under the storage compartment lid and one on the rear of the boat right above the output nozzle (venturi). Since you have two engines there are four total connections.

    If you use the top flush point you need to pinch the line in the engine compartment that goes to the rear connector so the water goes into the cooling system and not out the back connector. Because of this, and since the boat is elevated while on the trailer, I always use the rear flush connection since it's much easier to get to. I'm not even sure why there's a flushing connections that high at all! Maybe so you could theoretically flush the system while the boat's still in the water?

    The flushing procedure is outlined on page 53 of our manual. I read through the manual several times before I bought my boat, and since our boats share the same one I also read the stuff about the LT model.

  3. #3
    mark2m's Avatar
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    The upper flush connector is used when winterizing. You pour the anti-freeze mixture from the top connector to fill your block.

  4. #4
    Dr Len's Avatar
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    I always flush from the top. But if you do you have to block off the place on the bottom where you flush.

  5. #5

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    So if you want to run the engines, say, before you head out to the lake. Witch flush point would you use?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2m View Post
    The upper flush connector is used when winterizing. You pour the anti-freeze mixture from the top connector to fill your block.
    That makes sense! Thanks.

    I don't think it matters which you use to just run the engines... it does matter for winterizing tho.

  7. #7
    mark2m's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclairday View Post
    So if you want to run the engines, say, before you head out to the lake. Witch flush point would you use?

    I use the lower flush connector since there is no need to open the rear hatch and close off any lines. Quicker and easier.

  8. #8
    seadoodude's Avatar
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    on the subject of flushing and running on the hose, are these sport boats like the PWCs where you have to start the engine first before turning on the water? I suspect it depends on the model as my 2000 Challenger with the Mercury Jet states to start the water first, then the engine. While my 98 GXSL must be running first before turning on the water.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by seadoodude View Post
    on the subject of flushing and running on the hose, are these sport boats like the PWCs where you have to start the engine first before turning on the water? I suspect it depends on the model as my 2000 Challenger with the Mercury Jet states to start the water first, then the engine. While my 98 GXSL must be running first before turning on the water.

    Yep, same procedure. Engine -> water on -> 2-3 min -> water off -> engine off.

    Mine sounds absolutely horrible when it's run out of the water. Lots of metallic rattling which I think is mostly the venturi shaking.

  10. #10
    seadoodude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ausgezeichnet7 View Post
    Yep, same procedure. Engine -> water on -> 2-3 min -> water off -> engine off.

    Mine sounds absolutely horrible when it's run out of the water. Lots of metallic rattling which I think is mostly the venturi shaking.
    it's most likely caused by the normal play in the impeller shaft. most models have a pusher with spring in the pump cone to reduce the rattle. They do make an anit-rattle kit if yours does not have one. Regardless, either way it is normal for it to rattle out of water as there is no load on the shaft. It just rattles a lot more without the pusher.

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