Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    179

    Thru Hull bearing replacement - slt 780

    HEy everyone, just wondering if there are step by step instrucitons on how to change the thru hull bearing?? I am getting one sent to me this week (thanks shaneG) and will be trying to replace mine in the near future and I have never done it before.

    I looked in the maunal but not very deatailed. Any diagrams would help too

    thanks


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    25,929
    +1
    1,407
    1. Drink a beer
    2. Remove linkages remove the four long bolts that holds the pump on.
    3. Pull the pump and driveshaft.
    4. Drink a beer.
    5. Remove the rubber hose and carrier and shroud.
    6. Replace and reassemble dont forget the driveshaft rubber bumpers.
    7. Finish the six pack.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,570
    +1
    1,272
    Check the drive shaft splines at both ends while you have it out, and the O-ring at the impeller end.

    Grease the O-ring and the drive shaft splines at both ends, and grease the new bearing carrier.

    Top it off using the through hull bearing grease fitting after re-installing it all, until the grease squeezes out past the seals. You may need a needle grease fitting for your grease gun, if the fitting on the bearing is not a zerk type.

    Use a good quality waterproof bearing grease. I use Amsoil Synthetic GWR, but there are lots of others.

    Clean the threads on the long bolts before re-installing the pump, and use Locktite 242 Blue (I use Locktite 248 in stick form). Torque evenly to 18ft-lbs, in a criss-cross pattern.

    Re-assemble the steering and other nozzle connections, using a new SS cotter pin.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    179
    still need help...got the 4 long bolts out....and now i see a cone shaped thing with 3 tourques screws in it...removed the cone...se a rear baering looks good.....still dont know how to remove the drive shaft?

  5. #5
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Roanoke, Va
    Posts
    3,083
    Once the bolts are removed, you need to remove the whole assybley. Just grab it and pull. spary some pentrant oil in the cracks of the almn. housing. The whole unit will come out with the beaings, imperller, and sometimes the driveshaft will come out with it.

  6. #6
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Roanoke, Va
    Posts
    3,083
    Once in a while I will have to use a rubber hammer, to beat on the housing. Then drink a couple more beers!!!!

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodneyae View Post
    Once the bolts are removed, you need to remove the whole assybley. Just grab it and pull. spary some pentrant oil in the cracks of the almn. housing. The whole unit will come out with the beaings, imperller, and sometimes the driveshaft will come out with it.

    I did pull and all I got off was the rear cover with the reverse gate attached to it.....

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,570
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by paramuir View Post
    I did pull and all I got off was the rear cover with the reverse gate attached to it.....
    Yep, now use a length of 2x4 to work the jet pump body from side to side, a little each way. Lever it back and forth, and it will get loose enough to pull it straight out.

    Don't flex the pump body WAY over to one side or the other, you don't want to bend the impeller blades inside there.

    It will probably let go all of a sudden while you are pulling on it, so be prepared.

    Oh, put the tail cone back on, to keep any grit out of those bearings while you fight with the pump.
    Last edited by K447; 06-13-2008 at 05:17 PM.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Yep, now use a length 2x4 to work the jet pump body from side to side, a little each way. Lever it back and forth, and it will get loose enough to pull it straight out.

    Don't flex the pump body WAY over to one side or the other, you don't want to bend the impeller blades inside there.

    It will probably let go all of a sudden while you are pulling on it, so be prepared.

    Oh, put the tail cone back on, to keep any grit out of those bearings while you fight with the pump.

    wow so this is going to a bit of a battle i see.....ok well I will try this tomorrow and see how i make out.

    So once i do this then the shaft will pull straight out of the thru hull bearin and carrier.....and no trick it just slides in and out of the engine like that....wow thats crazy....

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,570
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by paramuir View Post
    wow so this is going to a bit of a battle i see.....ok well I will try this tomorrow and see how i make out.

    So once I do this then the shaft will pull straight out of the through hull bearing and carrier.....and no trick it just slides in and out of the engine like that....wow thats crazy....
    All that is holding the jet pump in right now is corrosion build-up. Once you get it apart, and clean up the mating surfaces, it will go back together fairly easily.

    Put some anti-seize compound on the mating faces before you reassemble, and next time it will just come right out, no trouble at all.

    Once you have the pump stator out (the part with the fixed blades), then the drive shaft will just slide out. It too might take a good wiggle and pull, but then it will come right out.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replacing thru hull bearings and seals on 2000 Virage TX
    By jmk1223 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-01-2014, 11:11 PM
  2. Thru hull bearing grease
    By paramuir in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-11-2008, 09:18 PM
  3. Thru-hull bearing replacement
    By wilson311 in forum Honda Open Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-02-2007, 02:36 PM
  4. Why RR driveshaft thru hull bearings fail
    By jawz in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-17-2007, 03:53 PM
  5. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-01-2007, 07:59 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •