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  1. #1

    Question 2003 Polaris/140 reversed battery, blowing fuses

    1st I'd like to say I'm a moron.

    My 2003 MSX 140 is blowing a 15 amp fuse everytime I push the start button. I have a new battery. I replaced the fuse only to have it blow out again as soon as I push start. There is NO noise coming from the PWC at all when I hit start.

    Its only the 1 15 amp fuse. The other 15 amp and the 2 amp are fine. Not sure if it matters but its the END 15 amp fuse (not the middle one)

    Just to let you know ( to show how much of a moron I am ) I hooked the battery up wrong at 1st which caused this problem. . Do you think I just fried a wire? Maybe fried the starter? Or do you think its possible I destroyed the computer system?

    Just to mention, I am still able to push the gauge button and see all the gauges like Hrs, gas, oil, and time. If the computer is fried would those still be viewable?


    Thanks for you time

    John
    Last edited by water_rat_pwc; 06-06-2008 at 05:36 PM. Reason: bad title


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by water_rat_pwc View Post
    My 2003 MSX 140 is blowing a 15 amp fuse every time I push the start button.

    I have a new battery. I replaced the fuse only to have it blow out again as soon as I push Start. There is NO noise coming from the PWC at all when I hit start.

    Its only the one 15 amp fuse. The other 15 amp and the 2 amp are fine. Not sure if it matters but its the END 15 amp fuse (not the middle one)

    Just to let you know ( to show how much of a moron I am ) I hooked the battery up wrong at 1st which caused this problem...
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    If your 2003 is the same as my 2004, then the end 15Amp fuse is for 'Battery", the middle 15Amp is for the Fuel pump, and the other end 2Amp fuse is for the digital gauges.

    The Battery fuse is the first fuse in the chain from the battery positive feed, and it supplies power to the other two fuses [for the Fuel pump and the NGI digital gauge (page 7.2)]

    According to the wiring diagram on page 4.7 of the downloadable 2003 Service Manual, the 15Amp Battery fuse directly feeds the EMM engine computer.

    As a test, take the fuel pump fuse out, and try another new 15Amp fuse in the end position. If it blows when you press Start, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.

    If the main Battery fuse still blows with the fuel pump fuse out, then I think you have damaged something electronic, quite possibly the EMM itself. This could be expensive to fix...

    When you had the battery connected backwards, did you try to start the engine, or even connect the lanyard?
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  3. #3
    Thank you for the reply.

    The fuel fuse was out and the battery fuse blew out again. I guess you can say I have a $3000 hunk of junk now. I was looking to sell it 1st thing this summer ( needed the money ).


    Its impossible to find someone to fix the Polaris in the Chicago area. Even if I do, sounds like a new computer is going to cost a fortune and might not be worth the trouble.


    Sell it as scrap I guess.


    Thanks again for taking the time to help out a moron.

    John

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Don't give up too easily.
    Edit: Always investigate, post, and focus on fixing it. Often enough, the fix is easier, and cheaper, than initially feared.

    Do some searching for a replacement EMM. They are out there, sometimes with the matching injectors.

    If you just find another EMM, then you have to send it, and your three fuel injectors, to Polaris for flow matching.

    It will start and run without flow matching, but it won't run well, and it might run lean, which will damage the engine itself.

    If you part it out, you might do fairly well, dollar wise, especially since the engine mechanicals are in good working order (I assume). Even the injectors are probably OK.

    Electronic stuff, like the off-power steering module, the voltage regulator, AND THE STARTER SOLENOID, may be toasted (or they might be just fine).
    Edit: Learn something EVERY day around here. Apparently the EMM is self-protected against reverse polarity (thank you, Ficht electronic engineers).
    So a/the failure point with a reversed battery connection is the solenoid, which has a diode inside across the coil. Pressing Start with reverse battery polarity would smoke the diode, and sometimes the failure mode is a short cicuit.

    Since the MSX hull is considered the most 'modern' design, there are engine conversion projects around. Some have converted the Polaris MSX engine to carburetors, others are installing SeaDoo engines for more power.
    Last edited by K447; 06-07-2008 at 09:07 PM.

  5. #5
    I cant even find someone to look at it.


    Sounds like I need someone with your knowledge. Like you said, someone that I find needs to know about flow matching . Ugh
    This thing was in NEW working order last year. 69mph with 1 person ( with no waves ). Everything is perfect on it. What a shame an idiot has to own it.

    I better go buy ear plugs for tonight. No need to hear the wife say "I told you not to buy that thing".

    With Trailer and "as is", do you think I can get a half way decent amount for it? It only has 47 hours on it ( assuming I cant find someone with your knowledge to work on it )

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by water_rat_pwc View Post
    I cant even find someone to look at it...
    Are you willing and able to work on it yourself, and learn as you go?

    Do you have good pictures of it, and the trailer?

    Oh, change the Thread title from your first post, to include the year and model, and mention the reversed battery, so others here can know what help you are looking for. Many don't read every thread, they scan the titles looking for things of interest.
    Last edited by K447; 06-06-2008 at 05:14 PM.

  7. #7
    2&4strokepolaristech's Avatar
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    you blew the diode in the starter solenoid. you need a new starter solenoid, fuse and two new rivits!!!! that should fix you right up!!! let us know how you made out!


    Jay

    p.s. if you need a solenoid just give us a call. link is below.

  8. #8
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    Hi water rat
    I agree with Jay,If the fuse blows when you push the button,that circuit is blowing the fuse. Lately my time is limited,I live in Lemont,spend some time on south side of Chicago. I have alot of automotive electrical experience and can assist.I will send a PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4strokepolaristech View Post
    you blew the diode in the starter solenoid. you need a new starter solenoid, fuse and two new rivits!!!! that should fix you right up!!! let us know how you made out!


    Jay

    p.s. if you need a solenoid just give us a call. link is below.
    I did the same thing to my RZR while installing a new battery with unmarked cables, new diode (it's external of the solenoid in the RZR)
    and she fired right off.
    While you order a new relay from Jay, might I suggest getting a thru-hull bearing kit?
    If you truley sell it, I guess you won't need the thru-hull kit.

  10. #10
    being a worthless human being when it comes to engines you guys amaze me.


    No clue what a thru-hull kit means but I think the guy that I dropped my PWC of at left me a message about something with the hull. I think he said the slonoid was riveted through the hull. Oh boy.

    My mechanic mentioned it so I guess he knows what he's talking about....I hope

    If people need stock advice I'll return the favor, machines are not my hot spot.

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