Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Romeo, Michigan
    Posts
    14

    How do I change pump oil?

    I have a 2004 Speedster 160 with the 240 merc...and i need to know how to change the pump oil...i have the oil..and the pump to do it...but i need to know the steps to run through..I realize theres two screws in the cone, and two by the intake grate..but im unsure on what ones to fill or drain from.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    68
    I'm curious too.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cypress, TX
    Posts
    83
    I bought the service manual hoping it would detail every maintenance procedure and it is pretty poor on procedures, no comparison to the SeaDoo shop manuals for PWCs which has very good service procedures. My next task is to check and change the oil in the jet pump.

    For the stator, there is a fill plug used to check level (use a small screw driver as a dip stick) and fill until it flow out. I see nowhere yet where to drain the old oil out. I suppose you have to pull stator from pump and drain it out the fill plug.

    For the pump housing oil, there are two screws near the intake grate. The center plug is fill/drain and the outer plug is a vent screw. Fill until oil comes out the vent screw. What tool do you use to inject oil up into the fill screw without making a hugh mess? Seems like it would be better to fill thru the vent until full.

    That is about I can get out of the service manual on this topic. If someone else has more detail, please advise.
    Last edited by seadoodude; 06-10-2008 at 10:27 PM.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Romeo, Michigan
    Posts
    14
    Well a service shop around me told me that to get it out of the pump you need to tip the boat backwards...and it will drain, which sounds a little weird that there is not a better way...and for the holes by the intake grate...they sold me a pump that screws into the holes and..i can pump it in that way...i guess im just going to have to tear into it...without knowing for sure

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cypress, TX
    Posts
    83
    I ordered a better service manual from amazon. From what little info in the Mercury Manual jet pump section, to change the stator oil, it looks like they remove the stator to change the oil, which is only a few more bolts after removing the nozzle so you can get to the fill screws. Then you don't have to kill yourself trying to tilt the entire boat.

    as for the pump housing oil, I assume you remove both the center fill/drain plug and the vent plug. then refill thru fill plug until it comes out the vent. However, I would think it is easier to fill thru the vent screw.

    I'll try to get some fellow M2 jet owner to comment on this topic from the pwctoday forum.
    Last edited by seadoodude; 06-11-2008 at 09:36 PM.

  6. #6

    Changing the lube in the Mercury M2 jetdrive...

    My second attempt at posting this, per SeadooDude's request.. I sure hope this works and I don't have to type it a THIRD time!
    -----

    There are two lube areas on the M2: The front of the impeller shaft (where the driveshaft and impeller shaft are connected via a set of bevel gears) and the rear of the impeller shaft (inside the stator). To do this job you’ll need a metric socket set, large flatblade screwdriver, 1/4 inch Allen wrench, two bottles of Mercury Premium Plus Gear Lube, Mercury lube hand pump, oil drain pan, wire brush, thread sealant, antiseize, and blue (medium strength) Loctite.

    Adjust the trailer jack so the ride plate on the jetdrive is level.

    Remove the center (fill/drain) plug in front of the intake grate. Use a large flatblade so you don’t ding up the screw. Don’t lose the little fiber washer underneath the screw.

    Remove the off-center (vent) plug. The lube will begin draining. Inspect the lube for white streaks or foam (indicates water) or metal specks (indicates wear in the bevel gears). Let the lube drain into the pan while you begin working on the stator lube.

    Disconnect the steering and thrust reverser cables.

    Remove the four bolts holding the steering nozzle and thrust reverser to the jetdrive. Remove the assembly and set it aside.

    Remove the four bolts holding the stator to the jetdrive. The stator will probably “stick” gently to the wear ring for now.

    Return to the front lube area. Screw the pump hose into the center hole. Install the pump into the first bottle of lube. Begin pumping. You’ll use all of the first bottle and some of the second. Switch bottles when necessary. Eventually, the lube will start coming out of the off-center vent hole, which has a tube inside; when the lube is full it reaches the top of the tube and comes down through the vent hole.

    Reinstall the off-center vent screw with its fiber washer and a dab of thread sealant on its threads. Unscrew the pump hose and reinstall the centered fill screw in the same way. The front lube is done.

    Return to the stator area with the drain pan. Position the pan under the front of the stator. Pull STRAIGHT rearward on the stator to release it from the wear ring. If it sticks, tap gently with a rubber or plastic mallet. Continue pulling STRAIGHT back until the stator slides off the end of the impeller shaft. Lube will immediately begin draining. Set the stator face down on the drain pan to finish draining. Inspect the lube for white streaks or foam (indicates water).

    It is important to remove and reinstall the stator straight along the impeller shaft so the impeller seal is not damaged.

    Once the stator has drained, remove the center hex screw from the tip of the stator cone. Turn the stator over and let the remaining lube drain out. There’s always a little residual lube in there and this lets it all come out.

    Inspect the impeller and wear ring for nicks, dings, and damage.

    While the stator is draining, use the wire brush to clean the threads of all eight screws removed from the rear of the jetdrive.

    Once the stator is completely drained, gently reinstall it on the back of the wear ring. Reinstall the associated screws using a dab of thread sealant, antiseize, or a very small amount of blue Loctite. Tighten in rotation and don’t overdo it; you’re tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminum threads. The service manual has torque specs but I just use my judgement.

    Reinstall the center hex plug with a dab of thread sealant. Remove the top hex plug. Insert the lube pump hose (it won’t thread, you’ll have to hold it) and begin pumping. Fill until the lube reaches the bottom of the fill hole’s threads. Reinstall the top hex plug with a dab of thread sealant. The rear lube is done.

    Reinstall the steering nozzle and thrust reverser assembly using a dab of thread sealant, antiseize, or a very small amount of blue Loctite. Again, tighten in rotation and don’t overdo it; you’re tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminum threads.

    Reconnect the steering and thrust reverser cables. Confirm smooth operation of both from the driver’s seat. All done!

    Time to complete: ~2 hours the first time, ~1 hour once you’ve done it before.

    I do this every autumn as part of winterization. I also change all six plugs and replace both fuel filters. There is an engine winterization process involving what Mercury calls “witch’s brew” that I’ll post here someday if anyone is interested. It was emailed to me directly from Mercury’s own technicians and is what they do in the factory to their own engines.

    Hope this helps!
    Last edited by WAPWC; 06-12-2008 at 06:19 PM.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cypress, TX
    Posts
    83
    perfect, thanks WAPWC for all your help and time spent typing these excellent instructions.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Romeo, Michigan
    Posts
    14
    Great write up...but one question...you mentioned two fuel filters....i know of the screw-on one on the side of the motor...but wheres the other??

  9. #9

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cypress, TX
    Posts
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by WAPWC View Post
    There is an engine winterization process involving what Mercury calls “witch’s brew” that I’ll post here someday if anyone is interested. It was emailed to me directly from Mercury’s own technicians and is what they do in the factory to their own engines.
    Yes, please post the “witch’s brew”, that would be great.

    I changed the oil in the pump housing. old oil looked new and I only checked the oil in the stator which also looked good. so it looks like previous owners took good care of the boat. Better safe than sorry.

    WAPWC, are you sure you have to pull the stator just to change the oil? That just seems excessive and a design flaw. Why the did not put a drain plug on the cone or a removable cone is beyond me.

    I did use the Mercury High Performance Gear Lube instead of the Premium Plus. It cost a little more and came with a free hand pump. Hopefully it is as good or better as long as the different types are not mixed. I don't understand why these manufactures make so many different types of lubes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay123678 View Post
    Great write up...but one question...you mentioned two fuel filters....i know of the screw-on one on the side of the motor...but wheres the other??
    other filter is at the fuel pump

    http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/5128/80.cfm
    Last edited by seadoodude; 06-17-2008 at 11:26 PM.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by seadoodude View Post
    Yes, please post the “witch’s brew”, that would be great.
    Go here for the complete winterization process:

    http://articles.richardhartman.net/j...terization.htm

    WAPWC, are you sure you have to pull the stator just to change the oil? That just seems excessive and a design flaw. Why the did not put a drain plug on the cone or a removable cone is beyond me.
    Yes, that's the recommended process. They just suggest tipping the stator forward (impeller shaft hole facing down) and letting it drain. I've found that a little bit of lube often remains, so I then remove the center plug, flip the stator over, and let the excess drain from the center hole.

    There are a few owners who use a hand pump with a hose, sticking the hose into the holes and pumping the lube out. I'm certain that leaves some excess in there, so I don't do that.

    I did use the Mercury High Performance Gear Lube instead of the Premium Plus. It cost a little more and came with a free hand pump. Hopefully it is as good or better as long as the different types are not mixed. I don't understand why these manufactures make so many different types of lubes.
    Gear Lube is for gears. Premium Plus is 2-stroke oil meant to be burnt during combustion. You would most definitely NOT want to use Premium Plus in the gearbox or stator, as it's not intended for that purpose.

    There are numerous types of lubricants because various lubrication purposes: Varying temperatures, pressures, shear limits, some need to burn with fuel, etc. etc.

    Hope this helps!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. how to change pump oil in 04 rxp?
    By soldierpage in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-21-2010, 10:57 PM
  2. how to change pump oil?
    By soldierpage in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-28-2008, 10:29 PM
  3. How do you change pump lube from grease to oil
    By VegasRatt in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 02-20-2008, 01:35 AM
  4. Changing pump oil?
    By Vern in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-09-2007, 05:46 PM
  5. How to change pump oil?
    By SideFX in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 07-26-2007, 10:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •