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  1. #1

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    01 Virage TXi stalls and wont restart

    I am new to the forum as I just got my first PWC a few weeks back. I bought it with the starter broken off in the stator housing. It had not run for over a year due to this problem so of course the fuel was old and the battery was dead as well.

    After replacing the starter and spark plugs (correct NGKs) and installing a used but good battery (310 cranking amp Harley battery if it matters), I was supprised to have it start right up on the old fuel. I took it out for about 15 minutes (losing daylight) and aside from a rough idle she ran great on top. Duplicated this the next day after work - 15 minute ride and ran fine once planed.

    I topped off the tank with 4 gallons of premium on Sunday expecting another trouble-free ride. Started right up as usual and sputtered through the no-wake zone. Hit the throttle and it ran great for about 100 yards and then stalled like it was starved for fuel. She started right back up but kept stalling. It stalls mostly at speed (i.e. when just putting around it was less likely to stall).

    I drained all the gas and refilled, checked the fuel pressure (25 psi), cleaned the flame arrestor screen and took it out yesterday to test. Started right up but died after about 3 minutes. Restarted once and died almost immediately, then refused to start again. Back at the house I confirmed that I have spark and fuel pressure, but it still won't start so I suspect something in the fuel injection is to blame.

    Any suggestions? I tried searching and couldn't find anything. I fix motorcycles for a living so I understand mechanical concepts but a direct injected 2-stroke is new to me! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


  2. #2
    Bernie's Avatar
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    Can you hear the injectors "clacking" when you crank it ?If not can you put a volt meter on the white /red wire
    .Should have at least 18-20 volts at cranking .Do you have a multi meter as you need one ?If you look at the throttle bodie you will see the throttle position Sensor .Disconnect the sensor from the harness .Will it start then and Idle ?


    Try these and get back to us

    Cheers

    Bernie

  3. #3

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    Bernie,

    Thanks for the quick response. I think you're on to something. Front to back I've got 12.5, 10.5, and 9.5 volts DC on my injectors while cranking. Only about 2 volts not cranking. Should I be using a Direct Voltage Adapter or just use the standard multimeter leads in the DC range? I've got a DVA for checking peak voltage on motorcycle ignitions if I need one.

    The motor will not start even with the TPS disconnected.

    Another thing that struck me as odd is the display on the ski is showing 11.2 volts but when I read voltage at the battery with the multimeter I'm getting 12.07. The battery is run down from trying to crank it so much so I will put it on the charger for a while and re-test everything.

    I figured I'd pull the electrical box cover and check my connections. Everything looks to be in order but I'm seeing .2-.3 ohms between the battery and the ground junction block inside the electrical box. My meter typically shows .1 ohm on a "good" connection.

    Thanks in advance for helping me figure this out!

  4. #4

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    I'm screwed. Saw lots of corrosion around the EMM from water leaking at the hose connections. Took the EMM out, removed the 4 small screws and I can see through the "jelly" that something on the board blew. No sign of water entry on the EMM itself, but the big screws on the bottom are seized so I can't tell for sure.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitstop504 View Post
    I'm screwed.
    Saw lots of corrosion around the EMM from water leaking at the hose connections.
    Took the EMM out, removed the 4 small screws and I can see through the "jelly" that something on the board blew.
    No sign of water entry on the EMM itself, but the big screws on the bottom are seized so I can't tell for sure.
    Might still be fixable.

    Soak those screws with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.

    Open it up enough that you can photograph the visible problem for us. Use close-up mode on your camera (flower icon).

  6. #6

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    I got the bottom cover off and there is no visible damage. The only damage is under the top plastic cover. Two rectangular yellow capacitors side-by-side right next to the I and C in "Ficht". Both are blown, but the one still has numbers visible on it: 106V M110W.

    I'll try to get some pictures up shortly.

  7. #7

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  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, definitely something has blown those components.

    I am familiar with electronic repair, but have never worked on these EMM modules.

    I suggest you contact DFI Technolgies, and see what they say.

    If they feel the EMM can not, or should not, be repaired, then you need to find a new EMM.

    AND, you either get the full set of fuel injectors that go with that EMM,

    OR you send the replacement EMM, and all three of your injectors, off to Polaris. They will map the injector flow pattern into the EMM, and send it back to you (all for a fee, of course).

    OR, if your old EMM is still alive enough, a Polaris authorized shop might be able to read the injector data from the old EMM, and store it in the replacement EMM, saving the cost of having the injectors analyzed.

  9. #9
    Bernie's Avatar
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    Dfi will read your emm injector info and transfer info to new emm when you sent it to them .

    Bernie

  10. #10
    Bernie's Avatar
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    DC Voltage

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