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  1. #1

    Question can i try and jump start a pwc?

    i found out that my batt isnt holding the load test at 10.5v.
    when i am strying to start it the voltage drops to about 3.5-4volts.
    would it be wise to try and jump it or will it fry the electronics...but it does have a breaker....will this help prevent damage?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Do NOT jump start a Polaris PWC. There are numerous stories here of fried CDI and MFD electronics after jump starts.

    I suspect the voltage spikes during the connection and disconnection of the boosting battery are the cause. The circuit breaker will NOT protect against voltage spikes.

    Buy a good battery, charge it up, and know you aren't risking expensive damage.

  3. #3
    is this damage you speak of an absolute? the reason I ask is I just picked up a 97sl700 and a 95slx750 and the first thing I did was try to jump them........they are gonna need quite a bit of work the 750 was sank and never started again all the water was removed but it just never ran again I only messed with them for a little bit last night gave 1k for them and trailor who knows what it will take to get them running.........

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    Quote Originally Posted by insp#484 View Post
    is this damage you speak of an absolute?
    the reason I ask is I just picked up a 97sl700 and a 95slx750 and the first thing I did was try to jump them....
    ....they are gonna need quite a bit of work the 750 was sank and never started again all the water was removed but it just never ran again
    I only messed with them for a little bit last night
    gave 1k for them and trailer who knows what it will take to get them running.........
    Jump starting doesn't ALWAYS cause problems, but often enough, it seems.

    It also doesn't always work, so even if the engine might be able to run, jumping it might not have delivered the minimum 10.5 volts during cranking that the CDI needs to develop a spark.

    Unless all the moisture was removed from the sunk 1995 SLX750's engine internals (and it is difficult to fully dry it out properly without getting the engine running again), it is likely that the crank shaft and bearings have rusted. Even a little rust, and the crank shaft will need rebuilding.

    Perhaps the engine was heavily sprayed with fogging oil right after the water incident, or you got lucky and somehow the water didn't get inside the engine. Both are long shots.

    What is the story with the 1997 SL700?

  5. #5
    i was mistaken its a 94 sl750 and a 97 slt 700 I just got the 700 running so I guess I answered my own question.

  6. #6
    ok i wont jump it
    i have hooked up a voltmeter and tried starting it
    the batt holds a charge but when i try and start it the voltage drops to about 4v
    could i hook up a charger and while it is charging can i try and start it. that way it is always getting juice...but not a whole lot,
    would this help or not.
    i picked up some starting fluid and i know it is hard on engines, but is it worth it if it starts?
    i havent done a compression test because i cant find a place in town that has pressure gauges.
    once i can get to the city(probly not anytime soon) i can pick one up...
    i am pretty sure it is getting compression as i can feel the air shooting out the top of the cylinder.
    now that i think of it i did make my own gaskets out of gasket maker from canadian tire. could this be a problem if it is leaking?
    should i pick up some real numbered gaskets from polaris?
    my ski wont start could this be a crompression problem due to homemade gaskets. i guess i need to take a compression test. well when i get the gauge and do the test ill get back and post what ive got. thank you all who have helped me with this issue.
    by the way do i need to have all the spark plugs out when i test each cylinder ( 2 cylinder )or do i need to have the one in opposite of the cylinder being tested?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bossd View Post
    ... the batt holds a charge but when i try and start it the voltage drops to about 4v
    Then the battery is NOT holding a charge!
    The definition of a good battery is that it can deliver voltage under load.
    Your battery apparently cannot, therefore it is not useful as a battery. Get a new one.

    could i hook up a charger and while it is charging can i try and start it.
    NO, do not try to use the charger as a battery booster.
    The charger is not intended to supply the large starting current the starter needs, and could deliver a very dirty voltage during starting. Just buy a decent battery.

    that way it is always getting juice...but not a whole lot,
    would this help or not.

    i picked up some starting fluid and i know it is hard on engines, but is it worth it if it starts?
    Not worth it without a good battery. Once you have the battery, you shouldn't need the starting fluid.
    i havent done a compression test because i can't find a place in town that has pressure gauges.
    Any automotive or tools supply store, even Sears, or Internet/mail order.
    once i can get to the city (probably not anytime soon) i can pick one up...
    i am pretty sure it is getting compression as i can feel the air shooting out the top of the cylinder.
    That doesn't really tell you much.
    now that i think of it i did make my own gaskets out of gasket maker from canadian tire. could this be a problem if it is leaking?
    should i pick up some real numbered gaskets from polaris?
    Use real gaskets whenever you can.
    ...my ski wont start could this be a crompression problem due to homemade gaskets. i guess i need to take a compression test. well when i get the gauge and do the test ill get back and post what ive got. thank you all who have helped me with this issue.
    by the way do i need to have all the spark plugs out when i test each cylinder ( 2 cylinder )or do i need to have the one in opposite of the cylinder being tested?
    For compression tetsing, I usually take all the spark plugs out, ground the plug wires, hold the throttle wide open, and crank until the pressure reading stabilizes (a few seconds is all it should take).

    Check one, then the other, record the readings.

    Then check them all again. The numbers for each cylinder should be consistent.

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