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  1. #1
    golson's Avatar
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    Unhappy 2 possible problems!!

    Guys,
    Just got back from a long weekend at the lake after my ten hour service and here is what I noticed.

    1. My 06 RXT only maxes out at 7640 RPM's. Is this the max for a new one? I did check the oil and it is over the full mark by a good 1/2 inch.

    2. While checking the hull, I noticed the rear grate plate is a good 1/4 inch from flush of the ride plate. I think this is wrong.

    Last but not least. I hated this and swore like hell on the lake but I hit some shallow water and my bottom hull is pretty scratched up. Will this slow me down a lot and is it expensive to repair? It sucked because i was a good 200 feet from the shore and never saw it goin real fast of course.....

    Thanks guys if you couls help me out on this.


    greg


  2. #2
    Moderator two2curupt's Avatar
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    oil level sounds over full...Will cause a drop in rpms...

  3. #3
    Moderator boataddict's Avatar
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    That is way too much oil. I get the best results keeping it half an inch under full. Anything above that on my 04 costs me.

  4. #4
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOATADDICT
    That is way too much oil. I get the best results keeping it half an inch under full. Anything above that on my 04 costs me.
    Good to know because mine is about 1/4" above the full mark.

    How can I take some oil out?

  5. #5
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    if the intake grate is hanging that low, then remove it CAREFULLY, u dont wanna spin the inserts or snap the bolts.... check out the pump shoe and make sure nothing has moved. then re-fasten the intake grate on there securely and use loctite.

    as suggested, high oil will hurt RPMs, u are way overfilled... u need to suck oil out thru the dipstick tube with a siphon pump or drill pump. i recommend the TEMPO Oil Boy for all ur oil changing and level adjusting needs

    lastly... the scratches will not slow u down if they are jsut surface marks. of they are deep gounded THROUGH the gelcote i'd recommend fixing, but if it's just cosmetic scratched/scuffs across the whole bottom no harm done. it might actually make u faster

  6. #6
    golson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485
    if the intake grate is hanging that low, then remove it CAREFULLY, u dont wanna spin the inserts or snap the bolts.... check out the pump shoe and make sure nothing has moved. then re-fasten the intake grate on there securely and use loctite.

    as suggested, high oil will hurt RPMs, u are way overfilled... u need to suck oil out thru the dipstick tube with a siphon pump or drill pump. i recommend the TEMPO Oil Boy for all ur oil changing and level adjusting needs

    lastly... the scratches will not slow u down if they are jsut surface marks. of they are deep gounded THROUGH the gelcote i'd recommend fixing, but if it's just cosmetic scratched/scuffs across the whole bottom no harm done. it might actually make u faster
    Thanks for the info. I will get some oil out tomorrow. but on a side note, what RPM's should I be running? And lastly, I do have a couple deep gouges on the bottom about a 1/8 inch wide by a few inches. Mostly on the tail bottom of the hull.

  7. #7
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    you can expect about 7900-8100 rpms on a stock machine. it's gonna vary depending on the air, the water, the rider, the hull, the prop, etc etc. but the biggest thing robbing you of rpms right now is the high oil level.

    now, after the oil level is lowered, your RPMs may still need some adjustment. multiple causes... u ran aground and may have pushed some debrish or sand thru the pump and nicked the prop, grooved the wear ring, or just plain erosion of the plastic with so much sediment getting slung thru there.... we'll cross that bridge when we get there and u drain some oil and get another test run out there.

    remember to check the oil level when the ski is HOT... operating temperature, and make sure the ski is level. put it right between the bends on the dip stick

    don't worry about the hull for now so long as you don't see fiberglass coming thru the gelcote. if you want to fix the hull eventually you can bring it to a shop or you can buy gelcote repair kits to smooth over the gouges and sand it down and buff it back to a shine.

  8. #8
    golson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485
    you can expect about 7900-8100 rpms on a stock machine. it's gonna vary depending on the air, the water, the rider, the hull, the prop, etc etc. but the biggest thing robbing you of rpms right now is the high oil level.

    now, after the oil level is lowered, your RPMs may still need some adjustment. multiple causes... u ran aground and may have pushed some debrish or sand thru the pump and nicked the prop, grooved the wear ring, or just plain erosion of the plastic with so much sediment getting slung thru there.... we'll cross that bridge when we get there and u drain some oil and get another test run out there.

    remember to check the oil level when the ski is HOT... operating temperature, and make sure the ski is level. put it right between the bends on the dip stick

    don't worry about the hull for now so long as you don't see fiberglass coming thru the gelcote. if you want to fix the hull eventually you can bring it to a shop or you can buy gelcote repair kits to smooth over the gouges and sand it down and buff it back to a shine.
    Thanks a lot for the info. I will have to test run it next weekend. But I am not so much of a ski mechanic so those items you mentioned that may have caused damage, can i fix it or do i have to bring it in to the dealer? I am mechanically inclined, but working on a ski in tight quarters like this seems pretty difficult. Let me know.

  9. #9
    Tennessee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by golson
    Thanks a lot for the info. I will have to test run it next weekend. But I am not so much of a ski mechanic so those items you mentioned that may have caused damage, can i fix it or do i have to bring it in to the dealer? I am mechanically inclined, but working on a ski in tight quarters like this seems pretty difficult. Let me know.
    Once you dive in it will come easy everytime there after! There is actually alot of room after you remove the seat support. And think about all the TIME and money you save!

  10. #10
    golson's Avatar
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    Updated Photos

    Here is a couple pictures of my oil level with red line and scratches underneath hull and the 1/4 inch non-flush of rear grate. Sre these bad things and what level should oil be. Keep in mind my ski is cold at reading. thanks

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