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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St Clair Shores, MI
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    258

    Power valves / clips / other pre-purchase questions

    Hi all, newbie here asking questions that have probably been asked a dozen times before . I did search though, and didn't quite come up with what I'm looking for, so here goes. Great forum, BTW.

    I'm still shopping for a PWC, but I'm looking primarily for a GP1200 or GP1200R. It's my understanding that the GP1200R has something called power valves. What do these do, and how do they work?

    I have read about waveeater clips and couplers. I assume this should be my first mod, as in order it as soon as I bring the ski home. I will probably understand the issue a little better when I have the ski in front of me, but right now, I have no clue what the power valves are for and a basic introduction and overview would be very helpful.

    I have also read about removing the cat. This is on the short list too, but i'm wondering how involved is the procedure (ie: 20 minutes or 2 hours), and what is the consequence of cat failure? Reduced engine power, reduced engine life, you no go now, or you sink now? If failure reduces power and doesn't fubar anything else, i'd probably let it go awhile.

    I understand these PWC's are oil injected, and like anything oil injected, a certain contingent of enthusiasts lose the oil injection and go to pre-mix. I have read 40:1... is this a good mix? If I don't do this, what are the chances my oil injection fails? If I do do this, should I rejet my carbs slightly richer or make other adjustments to account for the oil displacing some of the fuel? If I need to rejet, what jets do I get?

    Are these the only issues I need to be concerned with as long as the ski remains stock?

    I'm going to look at a 2000 GP1200R tonight. Any pointers on what to look for, specifically related to the power valves? Also, there's a good chance I won't have the opportunity to test drive (location / schedule / weather factors) but I will be able to see the ski run on the hose. Any symptoms I should be watching out for as it's run on the hose? Is running the machine on the hose adequte for a pre-purchase inspection, or should I insist on a test ride?


  2. #2
    Where are you located?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St Clair Shores, MI
    Posts
    258
    I'm in MI. I boat on Lake St. Clair. You?

  4. #4
    SkiOnDaBrain
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Owasso, OK
    Posts
    118
    Don't buy it before checking the compression on all 3 cylinders. Get a compression tester (well worth the $). Remove 1 spark plug at a time, screw in the compression tester, hold the throttle wide open and crank it for about 3-5 seconds. Record the compression of each cylinder. All 3 cylinders should be within 10% of each other. Normally, the 3rd (rear) cylinder is a bit lower than the other 2. I think a normal range of compression on a stock 1200 will be around 115/115/110?

    The first 2 things you need to replace (if you buy it) are the stock intake grate and then install the WaveEater powervalve clips (aftermarket powervalve couplers aren't as mandatory as the clips).

    Be sure to get underneath the ski where the driveshaft enters the hull and ensure there aren't any cracks, etc. Then try to look into the pump and check for nicks/scarring of the impeller, etc.

    When the guy hooks up the water hose, be sure he turns the motor on before he turns on the water (some people don't know this and it can damage the motor if you turn on the water first).

    Good luck!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St Clair Shores, MI
    Posts
    258
    Well, I ended up buying it. I'm going to take delivery tomorrow, left a deposit tonight.

    I didn't do a compression test, but I told him I need a test drive tomorrow.

    The engine compartment was clean enough to eat out of, but the rubrail was pretty rough and there are some nicks and scratches on the top. The bottom has normal wear, some scratches along the keel from beaching and whatnot. 67 hours. Totally stock. started right up. We didn't connect the hose, because i'm just going to test ride it tomorrow.

    Got it for $3600 with a trailer. It was a touch more than I wanted to spend, but it's a newer, faster ski than I was anticipating buying.

  6. #6
    espritonsevas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Miami,Fl.
    Posts
    388
    Even if it runs good, DONT make the mistake of not doing the compression check, you will be making a huge mistake if you dont do it.

  7. #7
    If your not doing something, its hard to screw up. stlouisramsfan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Pontoon Beach Illinois
    Posts
    1,115
    Quote Originally Posted by espritonsevas View Post
    Even if it runs good, DONT make the mistake of not doing the compression check, you will be making a huge mistake if you dont do it.
    + 1

  8. #8
    +1 GREAT advice from all, i wish i had found this forum before i bought. On the bright side, I'm learning how to rebuild the motor on my new GP1300R. Exciting process, but I'd rather be on Lake Michigan. Take all of this advice seriously, even if you buy the ski, check it out thoroughly when you take posession (I wish I had). Catching problems early will lessen the impact and increase the time you get to enjoy your new toy. I got 10 hrs. out of mine before it s**t the bed and I'm pretty sure if I'd been just slightly more proactive that I might have missed a weekend or two when I first bought it instead of the six to eight weeks I'm looking at now. Be patient, and trust the advice on this forum, I have never met a more helpful group of people.
    Grateful,
    Jim

  9. #9
    BoostCrzy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Wellington, FL
    Posts
    430
    +1
    1
    do the compression test....and if you ride it....listen for any bogging or hesitation at WOT....also feel for vibrations or noises.....should be very smooth at cruise or WOT....and a little lopey at idle...also should start very easily....especially if it was run recently....BEFORE riding, look at the pump/shoe area and check for any missing/broken bolts....

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St Clair Shores, MI
    Posts
    258
    Okay, i'm going to test ride it and pick it up tonight, meeting the guy at 5:30. He agreed to let me do a compression test, and I picked up a compression tester at lunch today.

    Any pointers for doing the compression test? I hate to seem clueless, because I do know how to turn a wrench, but I've never done a compression test before (all the engine failures i've experienced were easily diagnosed by the big hole or the loud knock ). I understand that some ignition systems need to be grounded properly or damage can be caused. Do I need to do anything with the spark plug leads when I crank the with them disconnected?

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