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  1. #1

    SLT 780 oil pump issues

    Hello guys, i am new to this site- Great forum BTW
    I just concluded that my oil pump is bad and have a queation for those who went to 40:1 premix. Did you have to change the low and high speed jets or does opening the adjusting screws compensate for this?
    Also I am not going to use a block off plate but I`ll leave oil in the reservois to lube the pump gear and I`ll plug the carb oil inlets. I have heard of guys freezing up the gear because of lack of oil so I am thinking this should cure the problem. What do you guys think? Thanks Mike


  2. #2
    BBCaprice's Avatar
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    What makes you think the oil pump is bad? The Fuji oil pumps are extremely reliable as they are run off the crank in the middle of the block. I have some 300 hrs on my 780 w/ oil pump.(although the lines have been changed, twice) If you do decide to remove it you really should do a block off plate as I bet that pump is still gonna wanna move oil. Have you checked the pump for flow?

  3. #3
    Well I have oil in the tank, it flows through the filter OK. I loosened the check valve and there is oil at the pump. The lines to the carbs are OK. But when I disconnect the lines to the carbs and crank the motor, there is no oil flow.

  4. #4
    BBCaprice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikerosi View Post
    Well I have oil in the tank, it flows through the filter OK. I loosened the check valve and there is oil at the pump. The lines to the carbs are OK. But when I disconnect the lines to the carbs and crank the motor, there is no oil flow.
    Cranking speed will never get oil up to the carbs. Heres how to do it. Find a ramp you can tie up for a while w/ boat on the trailer, in the water. Take a can of premix w/ you.(40:1). Disconnect the fuel line from the water seperator (the one that goes to the shut off valve). Also disconnect the oil lines where they hook up to carbs. Then stick the loose end of the fuel line in to your can of pre mix and fire it up! After a short period of running you should start to see oil coming up thru the oil lines. If you disconnect the rod from the carb linkage to the oil pump it will flow more oil at an idle(variable rate pump). This is how I purge my oil lines when I changed them. Make sense?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by mikerosi View Post
    Well I have oil in the tank, it flows through the filter OK. I loosened the check valve and there is oil at the pump. The lines to the carbs are OK. But when I disconnect the lines to the carbs and crank the motor, there is no oil flow.
    I agree with bbcaprice.
    I have been working on jetskis and sleds for over 20 years and have replaced 1 bad Oil pump itself. Now the hoses fittings ect yes sometimes they go bad.

    1. Did you bleed the oil pump itself? If not thats probably the problem. Loosen the bleed screw in the front of the pump and let oil drain out of it until its solid flow no air in the supply line!!

    2. You can start the engine on a hose and open the pump up manually and see if the pump starts to fill the lines. Make sure you are running gas with oil in it.
    3. After you bleed the pump and it is still not working then remove the pump from the engine and see if the drive is broken on the pump itself/.

    4. Make sure that the Oil Injection fittings are not stuck. You can use an air compresser with low air presuure and blow thru them or use a mighty vac and make sure they open up

    Report back and see if others offer

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by BBCaprice View Post
    Cranking speed will never get oil up to the carbs. Heres how to do it. Find a ramp you can tie up for a while w/ boat on the trailer, in the water. Take a can of premix w/ you.(40:1). Disconnect the fuel line from the water seperator (the one that goes to the shut off valve). Also disconnect the oil lines where they hook up to carbs. Then stick the loose end of the fuel line in to your can of pre mix and fire it up! After a short period of running you should start to see oil coming up thru the oil lines. If you disconnect the rod from the carb linkage to the oil pump it will flow more oil at an idle(variable rate pump). This is how I purge my oil lines when I changed them. Make sense?
    Hey BB yes that makes sense. I did what you said and the flow of oil is not great but it is rising in the tubes. Not knowing what the flow rates are supposed to be, I just assumed my pump was bad. What should the flow rate look like?

    I also have another problem with the fuel sender showing low fuel with the blinking light so I think I am in limp mode ( no revs past 3000rpm) and I did my plug chop in limp mode which showed a real white condition leading me to believe that oil was not going into the gas. I am going to disconnect the gray wire and see what happens . Thanks guys for the comeback, Mike

  7. #7
    Feral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikerosi View Post
    Hey BB yes that makes sense. I did what you said and the flow of oil is not great but it is rising in the tubes. Not knowing what the flow rates are supposed to be, I just assumed my pump was bad. What should the flow rate look like?

    I also have another problem with the fuel sender showing low fuel with the blinking light so I think I am in limp mode ( no revs past 3000rpm) and I did my plug chop in limp mode which showed a real white condition leading me to believe that oil was not going into the gas. I am going to disconnect the gray wire and see what happens . Thanks guys for the comeback, Mike
    Actually the Float thats inside the sending unit is toast, it isn't floating... Pull the sender unit out of the tank Unscrew the small single nut at the bottom then slide the float out and drop it in a can of fuel if it sinks replace it.. there about $25 and that $25 bux will probably fix that rpm problem on top..

    Computer registers no fuel, computer then limits the engine in case of air bubbles and attempts to protect the engine from running lean at WOT)

    Im also having a problem with my float it just won't float so I ordered a replacement..

    O.o why does everyones MFD show "Low Fuel" and mine just displays "Fuel" (Mine is supposed to go into Limp mode as per what people here have been telling me but it doesn't, deffinatly still fully runs but my GPS has been sleeping with the fishies for quite a few years and the MFD was screwed last year so no RPM/speed readings) uhh I think my ski is possessed LOL

    (Picture was taken with the engine off ski tilted back on its trailer and a compleatly fresh full tank of gas)
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    Last edited by Feral; 06-18-2008 at 10:48 PM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Feral View Post
    Actually the Float thats inside the sending unit is toast, it isn't floating... Pull the sender unit out of the tank Unscrew the small single nut at the bottom then slide the float out and drop it in a can of fuel if it sinks replace it.. there about $25 and that $25 bux will probably fix that rpm problem on top..

    Computer registers no fuel, computer then limits the engine in case of air bubbles and attempts to protect the engine from running lean at WOT)

    Im also having a problem with my float it just won't float so I ordered a replacement..

    O.o why does everyones MFD show "Low Fuel" and mine just displays "Fuel" (Mine is supposed to go into Limp mode as per what people here have been telling me but it doesn't, deffinatly still fully runs but my GPS has been sleeping with the fishies for quite a few years and the MFD was screwed last year so no RPM/speed readings) uhh I think my ski is possessed LOL

    (Picture was taken with the engine off ski tilted back on its trailer and a compleatly fresh full tank of gas)
    Mine also says "fuel" and not 'low fuel'. Are you getting the flashing red light warning? Good call on the float- I will check that out

  9. #9
    Feral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikerosi View Post
    Mine also says "fuel" and not 'low fuel'. Are you getting the flashing red light warning? Good call on the float- I will check that out
    yup its flashing, the Flash from the camera semi washed the LED Blink on that picture but it actually Blinked when I took the picture.. well I just found out in another post My 95 SL does not have a Limp mode but from there post's yours does have Limp mode.. thats probably why mine didn't rev limit when it was blinking

    P.S. Im still running my Stock oil injection works fine aside to I can smoke screen my WHOLE STREET in seconds LOL

  10. #10
    BBCaprice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikerosi View Post
    Hey BB yes that makes sense. I did what you said and the flow of oil is not great but it is rising in the tubes. Not knowing what the flow rates are supposed to be, I just assumed my pump was bad. What should the flow rate look like?

    I also have another problem with the fuel sender showing low fuel with the blinking light so I think I am in limp mode ( no revs past 3000rpm) and I did my plug chop in limp mode which showed a real white condition leading me to believe that oil was not going into the gas. I am going to disconnect the gray wire and see what happens . Thanks guys for the comeback, Mike
    The flow rate is quite slow. Its definetly not going to squirt or spray out of the lines. Just a constant flow out over the top of the line. If its moving oil, its fine. Fix your sending unit issues first. Then I would verify that the mixture screws are set to stock specs for your ski (search if you dont have them- they are on this forum). You have to do your plug chops at hi RPM. Although pistonwash reading is much more accurate. Keep us posted........

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