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  1. #1

    Can't get bolt out of cylinder/pipe

    I have a 2000 xlt1200 pv engine. Cylinder 3 is done. See:

    I'm trying to take it off. I took off four bolts at the base of the Cylinder. I then took off 3 of the 4 bolts from the pipe attached to bottom of cylinder (top right, top left, bottom right). I can't get off bottom left bolt. It is really really tight. Broke ratchet mechanism in the Craftsman and afraid of breaking bolt. Any ideas on getting this bolt out?

    I know this sounds like a noob question (and it is), but I'm having great difficulty with this right now. TIA

  2. #2
    mrbtd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Lindenhurst, Illinois, United States
    heat up the bolt with a torch then give it a go

  3. #3
    Thx. I'll go get one at Linens and Things today.

  4. #4
    shay_mcquaid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Lake City, Florida
    If you actually sheared the craftsman rachet you've got a problemo.
    3/8 drive I presume?

    Short of the hot wrench I can only suggest penetrating oil and some patience...and obviously, if you go at it again make damn sure youre square on the head of the bolt.Rounding it off will only leave you to drill the head off and EZ-out the threads. If its in a bad spot will/can be a nightmare.What size is it?Post a pic?

  5. #5
    NIXON'S BACK!! cincygpr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Birmingham, MI
    Impact wrench set to a low pressure. Vibrate the bolt a little bit, try to loosen it, then tighten it back up. Rinse and repeat. Apply some heat in between, but do not force the bolt!! I've broken my fair share of bolts just from being impatient.

  6. #6
    Sea-doo's are part of my GPR's diet. MJE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts
    CONCRETE CYLINDERS FTW!! DAMN THAT LOOKS PAINFUL. I had to comment on that one. I'd do a couple of things to get bolt out...

    first off...take a pic of it so we can see it...if you havent already.

    next, bring it to a local machine shop so they can hook it to a press if possible. Or if its an issue where you cannot get a head unbolted or exhaust unbolted from the exhaust port side...then what I would do is cut the damn thing, and then bring it to a shop with the appropriate tools. There are also a lot of tuners on here that could probably help you out for a nominal fee.

    Invest in a metric tap+die set...drill a small hole in the bolt(s) you are trying to remove...and use the reamer from the T+D set to hook against the walls and most likely pull your troublesome bolt.

    I have had a ton of bolts go bad this season (primarily on my ski that got a decent salt water bath from moronic friends.) I bought a seperate metric and std tap + die set from sears for about 300 each...they have saved my life compared to where I'd be without em.

    But again if these pieces are removable from the ski where they are workable bring them down to a local machine shop...every town has a few of them.

    Use loctite-blue when reassembling them unless they are exhaust posts where I'd recommend dousing them in red for the permanent fix.

    heat+impact should do sure to tap out the threads before reassembling especially with the corrosion pics you've shown. Just be patient...if it breaks, its not the end of the world.

    good luck,

    Last edited by MJE; 06-24-2008 at 11:16 AM.

  7. #7
    Thx for reply. I still can't get it out. But, I want to make one clarification. I got it out about 3/4". It isn't stuck in starting position. I just can't get last 1/2" or so.

    Here are pics of offending bolt. I have compressor with tools. Should I try using it? I have been trying with ratchet tool. I just don't want to break the bolt. TIA.
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  8. #8
    Sea-doo's are part of my GPR's diet. MJE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts
    work it back and forth...use (2) wrenches at once by using a box end on the bolt and using the box end from the 2nd wrench to grab the open end and give you more leverage. Those are pretty hardcore bolts so I think you'll be ok cranking on it....but still go back and forth a little bit with it...afterwards as I said it'd be a smart thing to invest in a tap and die set to clean out the multiple seasons of crap and corrosion that have built up and then loctite them back with approrpriate amounts of loctite.

    good luck...if you've never done the wrench trick just remember it works with another wrench thats close in size...i generally do one size if its a 14mm head take a 15mm wrench for the other end of the wrench thats on the bolt. now you can push with the flat part of the wrench instead of the thin area.


  9. #9
    There is no winter in Hawaii! tnerb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Have you tried spraying with penetrating oil and working it in then back out? Spray more, in then back out. See if it comes out a little more each time. If you break it, it looks like you don't have room to get a drill in there to drill it out, but at least you can get the manifold off.

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