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  1. #1
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    Depth finder install on 2008 RXT-X

    I got my Seadoo depth finder from babbets online store for about $280 bucks. Took them forever to get it too me.
    Alright, first thing I did was remove one of the intercooler hoses and tuck it out of the way. Next I took the two hose clamps on the free flow exhaust I have and loosened them, then removed the exhause hose from the stock water box.
    I then loosened the two hose clamps from the water box and took off the big rubber band so I could swing the waterbox slightly out of the way so I could get to the flat spot on the boat where the mounts glues too.

    Here's where it stops being fun. You have virtually no room to work down there. You can barely see the flat spot and need a flashlight to do anything down there. I really didn't want to pull the waterbox out because that looked like a freaking nightmare. So I made do. I was able to clean the spot and epoxy the base in. When I put the little gel pad in and tried to get the tranducer to snap in, it wouldn't.

    Out came the dremel tool to remove the excess glue that had spilled into the recess. Tried to snap the tranducer in and it clicked right in.

    Putting everything back together wasn't that big of a deal except for getting the waterbox rubber band back on. What a PITA.

    Now, they give you two sets of wires. One for earlier model years, and one for the later years like my boat. The instructions do have pictures, but I have no clue where to hook up the wires. The instructions don't give you an example for the X-boat...and they are different in the wiring.
    I'm having to take it to the dealer to have them sort out the wiring. Then they have to flash the BUDS unit so it can see the depth finder.

    IMHO, this is not and easy or fun install. I'm fairly handy with tools, and have worked on a lot of my own ski's over the years. But this thing kicked my ass sideways. Seadoo's instructions for the X boats are non-existent as far as wiring goes. This is the same part number for all the seadoo boats so I know its the right one.

    Anybody else install and wire one of these on an X-boat?? I need to know where the four little wires clip too on the fuse block. And how do you get the fuse block out to get to the back of it???


  2. #2
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    there's a thread in the how to section on this...had my dealer install mine(from the sound of it,i'm glad i did)its not an x model though...

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13063

    good luck man!

  3. #3
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    I've probably read that about four times now...really good information. The problem I have now is where the heck do I put the wires..

  4. #4
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    Alright, I figured out how to install and wire the depth finder on an 08 RXT-X. Keep in mind that most dealers haven't done one yet, and the seadoo instructions arent very good.

    You'll get two sets of instructions with the kit. You'll want to use instruction set B. Also, you'll get two wire bundles with the kit, you'll use the extra long one with the four color coded wires sticking out, and a ground wire.

    WIRING INSTRUCTIONS;
    I'm assuming you've already gotten the tranducer in place, routed the wire approrietly. I routed mine too the starboard side of the boat, up and over, and slightly behind the intercooler.
    Disconnect the battery, both negative and positive wires. Take the cover off the fuse block. As your looking at the fuse block, its held in by two clips on either side. You'll need a small flat tip screwdriver to gently pry each of those two clips slightly so you can get the fuse block out. Also remove the single bolt that holds the relay block, and remove that block to the side. Once you get the fuse block off its mounts, start cutting all the little wire ties that are holding the various wire bundles. This will allow you to get the fuse block up a little higher, and you need to be able to turn it over so you can see the back side and get to that area easily.

    Now, get the long wire bundle with the four wires, and the ground wire. You don't need to connect this to the transducer plug yet. Just bring it over with you and stand on the port(left) side of the boat next to the fuse block your now holding in your hand. You have four wires to push into the back of the fuse block in various holes. You won't need the bullet connectors that are in the bag with the silicone pad.

    With the fuse block held upside down, the upper left corner, first wire, is A-1. Count over from there too position A-8. You'll notice there's a little plastic plug in that hole. Take a poker of some sort and insert it into that hole on the front side and push that little plug out. Now, take your red/white stripped wire, and push it through the back of the fuse block in hole A-8. Next, with the fuse block still held upside down, go down one level of holes to the B level, and count from left to right to position B-5. You should see another one of those little plastic plugs. You may need to remove the long black jumper on the B block from the front to push your poker through that hole to get that plug out. Stick the other end of the red/white wire into hold B-5. This will provide power to the depth finder. In fact, if you look at the front cover of the fuse box, you'll see theres a 3 amp fuse that goes into block A, right where you just connected one end of the red/white wires. You have a spare 3 amp fuse, your gonna need that in that hole, but don't push it in yet.

    Next, locate hole A-7, its right next to hole A-8, just to the left of the red/white wire you just pushed in. Take the Purple wire, and push it into hole A-7. These wires all have "clips" attached to the ends, they have to go into the hold laterally, that's the only way they will fit. Once you have the red/white wire in A-8, and purple in A-7, hold onto the ends of those wires so they don't push out. Turn the fuse block over, and take your 3 amp fuse and plug it into the slot for the depth finder. Your actually plugging your fuse onto the red/white wire and the purple wire. Once you inserted the fuse, turn the fuse block back over and make sure the two wires didn't push out, and that they are grasping the fuse you just put in.
    Turn the fuse block back over so you can see the face and all the fuses. You'll see two black jumpers. There black long plastic things that plug into a lot of fuse holes. Remember, the top of the fuse block is A, next one down is B...and so on. You'll need to remove the long black jumpers in rows D, and E.

    Turn the fuse block back over so your looking at the back. From the top left hole-Row A, count down to Row D, and over 8 holes to D-8. You see a little plug there don't you? Take your poker and push that plug out from front to back. While your at it, go down one row to E, and push the little plug out of hole E-8.

    The easy way to do this, because its a tight fit in there with all the other wires, and move the purple wires out of the way slighly, then take the white/black wire, and push it into hole E-8, then take the white/red wire and push it into hole D-8. Keep your fingers on these wires so they don't push out, turn the fuse block back over so your looking at the front, and push the long black jumpers back on, making sure you don't push the wires out of the back.
    Remember, take your time, always confirm and re-confirm that your putting the correct wire into the correct hole, and that none of the wires were pushed out the back by the fuse or jumpers.
    Your basically done with the wiring. Take the fuse block and snap it back into place. Re-check to make sure you have the 3amp fuse firmly connected along with the two black jumpers. Put the cover back on. Take the screw and put the relay box back into place, and zip tie some of the loose wire bundles back up.

    You can now route this long black wire bundle back towards the transducer plug. I routed it along the front of the motor, then towards the back on the upper right side of the motor, zip tieing as I went. You'll need to keep the black ground wire close to the front of the motor, but there plenty of wire for that. Connect the plug to the transducer plug that you routed around the back of the ski and over to the right side. Zip tie everything where you can. Connect the ground wire to the negative side of the battery. Then connect the positive cable to the battery.
    Now the hard part. Connect your ski trailer to your tow vehicle, and take the ski down to your nearest dealer. You will need them to program the B.U.D.S. unit on your ski to recognize the new depth finder.

    Unfortunately, my dealer had a problem with there B.U.D.S. unit and coudn't activate my unit today(Saturday), so they have to call Seadoo on Monday to get a new code for there unit so it will work again. I'm kinda bummed. Because of a staffing shortage today, I was able to come home and work on the ski, and wanted to ride it with the new depth finder. No luck. I'll have to wait til Wednesday of next week before I can test it out, because I have to work for the next few days, and won't have the opportunity to ride until then.

    If you have any questions about this install, either ask them here, or PM me. My dealer sells about 100 skis a month. There one of the largest jetski dealers in the country. And none of there techs has installed a depth finder on an X-boat yet. I told one of there techs how to do it, so now they know. The instructions are pretty useless, but will come in handy when you do the above wiring, as they tell you which color wire goes into which slot in the fuse block.

  5. #5
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    Finally got the depth finder working. Had to work, so I couldn't go by the dealer to get it flashed until this afternoon. Thanks or Chris at Walt's Motorsports, Lake Havasu City, AZ. They all really know there stuff when it comes to PWC. He had the B.U.D.S. unit on and off the boat, ready to go, in less than 5 minutes.

    So I went out too the lake for a quick run. Keep in mind it was 116 deg, which is kinda like running your hairdryer on full blast in your face; you get the idea....freaking hot.

    Thing works as advertised, and is suprisingly accurate. I rode around for a bit, then went to Area 51 and made a few speed runs. The depth finder doesn't work at speeds of 70 and above. It just starts showing wrong depths....like the actual depth was 20ft, but it would ping, and because I was going so fast, not received the return, and put up something like 71ft, then 60ft....just weird numbers.

    Now most of you won't be watching your depth finder and GPS while going 70mph....just wanted to see if it would work at those speed....nope.

    I'm off tomorrow, so I'll play with is somemore. The lake was really chopped up today, and even bouncing all over the place, it was reading steady and accurate.

    IMHO, this thing is a must have. When I was riding a steady 60mph, it was accurate. When it started to click down from 5ft...then 3ft...I just closed my eyes....j/k. The river can be shallow at times, but if you know where your going...its not a problem.

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