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  1. #1

    My new 2003 MSX 140

    Hi,

    I just bought this PWC two weeks ago. Here are pics. (If there's one thing I learned in this forum, it's that everyone wants pics.)

    First off, I have no experience with jet skis (or engines in general) so this whole process has been a huge learning experience for me. I have a long background in computers, so as a result things like reading manuals and following intricate instructions are no sweat, and I love discovering the details about how things work.

    These forums have been an incredible resource for me in this process. The collective amount of skill of the members of these forums, combined with the overall attitude of helpfulness around here, make this site one of the most valuable topical resources on the Interwebs.

    Anyway, enough of that. Here are the pics.
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  2. #2
    I have a couple questions about these pics. I have circled my concerns in red in these pictures.

    First picture:
    That black box seems to be covered in oil. I cleaned it up and went for a ride, and it looks like it came back. Not sure if I should be concerned.

    Second / Third picture:
    Looks like there is oil leaking from one of the cylinders?

    Fourth Pic:
    Loose screw sitting in the hull!! I only noticed this when I was taking these pictures. I did not immediately see where this screw was supposed to go, but I will investigate further.

    Fifth pic:
    This spur-looking-thing seems loose. There is a lot of play between the hull and the screw head, so I think this may be the culprit when I am going at idle speeds and hear a metallic jiggling noise. I have tried tightening it, but it wont budge. Perhaps I should replace the screw?

    Sixth pic:
    There is a oddly shaped bent piece of metal holding what I believe to be the reverse attachment onto the big plastic part in the back. Seems kinda rigged, perhaps there is a correct part I should be using here?

    Anyway, any insight to any of these issues are appreciated.

    Thanks!
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    Last edited by jtz; 06-30-2008 at 10:59 PM.

  3. #3
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtz View Post
    I have a couple questions about these pics. Again, I am not familiar with the terminology, so please correct me if I should be calling a "doohicky" or "thingamajig" by another name.

    I have circled my concerns in red in these pictures.

    First picture:
    That black box seems to be covered in oil. I cleaned it up and went for a ride, and it looks like it came back. Not sure if I should be concerned.
    Might check the seal on the oil tank cap

    Second / Third picture:
    Looks like there is oil leaking from one of the cylinders?
    Looks like maybe the injector is leaking,try tightening the retaining bolts to specs(Download the manual from here)

    Fourth Pic:
    Loose screw sitting in the hull!! I only noticed this when I was taking these pictures. I did not immediately see where this screw was supposed to go, but I will investigate further.Hummmm

    Fifth pic:
    This spur-looking-thing seems loose. There is a lot of play between the hull and the screw head, so I think this may be the culprit when I am going at idle speeds and hear a metallic jiggling noise. I have tried tightening it, but it wont budge. Perhaps I should replace the screw?
    That needs to spin,that's the speedo wheel as it spins in the water the computer reads how fast it speed at feeds the speedometer.

    Sixth pic:
    There is a oddly shaped bent piece of metal holding what I believe to be the reverse attachment onto the big plastic part in the back. Seems kinda rigged, perhaps there is a correct part I should be using here?
    Replace it with a Cotter pin,it is rigged

    Anyway, any insight to any of these issues are appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Nice Ski!

  4. #4
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    Nice Ski!
    The stainless steel philips head screw that holds the speed sensor (pic 5) should be tightened down! It appears that the head has been stripped, and removing the screw will take some care. The surest way to back out a stuck screw, with a damaged head, is with a hand held impact driver (that accepts a phillips #2 bit). The threads that the screw uses have probably been exposed to salt water, and may need to be 'chased' with the proper metric tap, once the screw is removed. This screw does not interfer with the rotation of the 'paddle', and the loose unit could very easily be the sound that you are hearing.
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  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!

    I have a 2004 MSX 140.
    Here are my comments in red.
    Quote Originally Posted by jtz View Post
    ...First picture:
    That black box seems to be covered in oil. I cleaned it up and went for a ride, and it looks like it came back. Not sure if I should be concerned.
    Check the oil tank and oil lines at the front of the engine. They should be dry to the touch, not oily.

    Also check the oil tank breather/check valve on top of the tank (hard to see, use a small flashlight), and the oil level sender fitting. All fittings should be NOT leaking oil, and generally they are not even very oily to the touch.


    If you have oil pooling in the hull bottom, then you should find and fix the leak.

    That black metal box is actually a three sided (no bottom panel) cover for the drive shaft coupler. It should not be oily, as there is nothing that uses oil in the vicinity.

    The black cover is mounted at the rear edge to a sealed through-hull bearing assembly, through which the drive shaft connects to the impeller in the jet pump.

    If that bearing fails, then it will allow water to seep alongside the drive shaft, into the hull. In normal operation, you should see only small amounts of water inside the hull after you ride.

    Also check ALL the exhaust hoses for loose clamps or damaged hoses. Any exhaust leaks inside the hull can spray oily exhaust gases around. It would also reduce engine performance.

    Second / Third picture:
    Looks like there is oil leaking from one of the cylinders?
    That looks like the seal between the fuel injector and the cylinder head is not 100%. Probably not something to worry about yet, but keep an eye on it. Try to keep it cleaned up, so you can tell if it starts to get worse.

    Fourth Pic:
    Loose screw sitting in the hull!! I only noticed this when I was taking these pictures. I did not immediately see where this screw was supposed to go, but I will investigate further.
    That could have come from anywhere, as loose things tend to work themselves backward in the hull over time. Look for similar screws.

    Fifth pic:
    This spur-looking-thing seems loose. There is a lot of play between the hull and the screw head, so I think this may be the culprit when I am going at idle speeds and hear a metallic jiggling noise. I have tried tightening it, but it wont budge. Perhaps I should replace the screw?
    You may have some trouble getting that screw out, as others have mentioned. Yes, it should be properly fixed.
    The MSX paddle-wheel speedometer is not highly accurate to begin with, but having the speed sensor mounting loose certainly won't make it any better.

    Sixth pic:
    There is a oddly shaped bent piece of metal holding what I believe to be the reverse attachment onto the big plastic part in the back. Seems kinda rigged, perhaps there is a correct part I should be using here?...
    Use a proper Stainless Steel cotter pin.
    If you have not done so already, download the 2003 MSX 140 Service Manual.

  6. #6
    Thank you all for your replies. Here is what I did so far.

    Downloaded and printed the service manual in its entirety. Perused it over the course of the last several days.

    Reviewed these forums for common problems and resolutions related to this ski.

    Re-tightened ALL of the fuel injector retaining bolts on all 3 cylinders to 18 ft.lbs. as outlined in the service manual. Hope this was the right move.

    Removed the rig job connecting the reverse rod to the reverse gate. Bought and installed a new Cotter pin. Is this right? (see attached diagram)

    Removed the loose screw from the hull. Perhaps it goes here? If not, does SOMETHING go here? (see red circle on attached diagram)

    Unsuccessfully attempted to unscrew the speed sensor screw, using a standard Philips-head screwdriver. As Rocky_Road pointed out, the screw head is indeed badly stripped. I will attempt his method involving an impact driver and possibly chasing the threads with a metric tap.

    Learned the hard way never to drop a wrench under the engine into the hull. It sucks getting it back.

    I will check the oil tank cap and oil lines first thing tomorrow morning. Will also check the sealed through-hull bearing assembly. Unfortunately, it started raining as I was really getting into this. There's always tomorrow.

    Thanks.
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    Last edited by jtz; 06-30-2008 at 04:49 PM. Reason: edit

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtz View Post
    ...Downloaded and printed the service manual in its entirety.
    Perused it over the course of the last several days.
    Wow.

    ...Re-torqued the fuel injector retaining bolts to 18 ft.lbs. as outlined in the service manual. During this process, it seemed like these retaining bolts on the injector in question were considerably looser than expected, which concerned me. ...I tightened ALL of the fuel injector retaining bolts on all 3 cylinders to 18 ft.lbs. as outlined in the service manual. Hope this was the right move.
    Sounds just fine to me. These engines do vibrate strongly, so you might want to recheck them after a few more hours of operation.
    If they keep getting loose, you might want to carefully remove the bolts, clean out the threads, and use some fresh Locktite on the threads when you re-torque them. I think the manual calls for Locktite 242, but I like 248, which is the same stuff in glue stick form - less messy to work with.

    If you do remove and re-torque the bolts, then remove them both, then reinsert them both, and alternate between the pair as you work towards full torque. That way, the injector position won't get pulled off center with one bolt tight, and the other completely loose.

    Removed the rig job connecting the reverse rod to the reverse gate. Bought and installed a new Cotter pin. Is this right? (see attached diagram)
    Looks correct to me - one leg wrapped up around each side of the pin.
    Take your needle nose pliers, and turn the very ends of the cotter legs inward towards the pin, so they cannot catch on clothing and skin.

    Removed the loose screw from the hull. Perhaps it goes here?
    If not, does SOMETHING go here? (see red circle on attached diagram)
    No screw goes in that hole. The hole it came out of will have threads machined inside the hole.

    Unsuccessfully attempted to unscrew the speed sensor screw, using a standard Philips-head screwdriver. As Rocky_Road pointed out, the screw head is indeed badly stripped. I will attempt his method involving an impact driver and possibly chasing the threads with a metric tap.
    That screw is in a tough spot. It will be difficult to deliver a decent hammer blow to the top of the impact tool in there. It does take a fairly firm rap for the tool to do its job.
    You may have to use small vise grips or something similar, and grip the sides of the screw head, and slowly work the screw out.

    If you really cannot get it out, then you might have to remove the entire metal ride plate, just to allow working room to remove that stubborn screw.

    Learned the hard way never to drop a wrench under the engine into the hull. It sucks getting it back.
    Yep, number one most popular place to store important tools when working on a boat - under the engine!

    I will check the oil tank cap and oil lines first thing tomorrow morning.
    Will also check the sealed through-hull bearing assembly...
    To remove the metal cover for the through-hull bearing, you only need to loosen the two side screws, and remove the top screw. Then wiggle the cover until the slots on the sides release, and lift it up and away.

    You can operate the PWC with the coupler cover removed. Just be sure to keep objects, clothing, and fingers out of that area.
    Perseverance will pay off.

    Keep at it.

    You will figure out what needs fixing, and will really learn how it is put together along the way.

  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Underneath the injector retaining plates are seal rings, replace them, retorque the mounting hardware and your injector leak will go bye-bye.

    When and if you drop something under the engine, lift the boat (trailer actually) skyward and the wrench will roll or slide to the back of the engine plate for easier access.

  9. #9
    Hello,

    After re-tightening the fuel injection retaining bolts, the leak re-appeared. I am going to try replacing the seal rings as ph2ocraft suggested. Is this the ring you are referring to? Circled in attached diagram.

    Disregard. Found more information here.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61716

    Thanks.
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    Last edited by jtz; 06-30-2008 at 08:23 PM.

  10. #10
    I'm feeling naturally aspirated today pirate33's Avatar
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    Guys in the pic of the pump isn't the steering bolt and nut upside down? and the bolt does not look like the correct stock one as on my Virage and Casper the Matirx and might be just be a flat head screw that someone put in this guys ski?

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