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  1. #1

    Driveshaft Leak Update Issue-99 Genesis

    I fixed the drive shaft leak we had by putting in new seals and bushings (bearings) last week--BEFORE, the machine had a slow trickle around the seal when sitting in water and it got no worse with rpm's or riding. NOW, it does not leak when sitting or idling or going slow, but DOES leak a large amount when underway at mid to higher RPMs.

    The driveshaft was worn a pretty good amount when we disassembled it so I shortened the hose-type housing slightly that held the bearings/seals to get them on "good" driveshaft area. I am thinking that the driveshaft is worn badly enough that only one of the new seals (probably the rear one) is actually sealing after moving the housing. Is it possible the the pressure developed by high RPMs would then push a very large amount of water through the seals?

    Like I said, it is fine when sitting for 3 days in lake whereas before it would trickle full overnight. Any ideas? Thanks DOUG


  2. #2
    ShaneG's Avatar
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    Is it full of grease to the point its coming out the fitting? If so you may need to replace driveshaft. Is it aligned perfectly?

    Do a WTB for your drive shaft replacement or contact Randy or Zigler here on the forum.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    If the through-hull bearing has been pumped full of waterproof marine bearing grease, enough that it was oozing past the seals, and those new seals were installed with the spring seal lips facing the correct ways (especially the rear seal), and it STILL leaks water, then the drive shaft is probably no good.

    Be sure you still have the little rubber end bumpers on both ends of the drive shaft in place.

    In the Genesis, I think one of those end bumpers was actually a double bumper (one silicone glued onto another). If they are not in place, the drive shaft will not be properly positioned, and can move about when the engine is running.
    Last edited by K447; 06-27-2008 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Only one rear seal in non-MSX through-hull bearing assembly

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    (especially the two rear seals), and it STILL leaks water, then the drive shaft is probably no good.
    What do you mean TWO rear seals? I have one in each end of a metal ring-shaped peice, with a grease zerk on it, into which I pressed a bearing and a seal exactly as the ones I removed--I then hose-clamped the @4" peice of what looked like radiator hose on one end of it and the other onto the through-hull lip. Just like I removed it. The only change I made was to cut @ 3/4" off the hose to shorten it and get the seals onto non eroded driveshaft surface--like I said it was noticeably worn under the entire surface that rides against the seals--probably run dry for MANY years. And re: the "rubber bumpers"--are these small driveshaft sized peices on the end or large that the driveshaft goes INTO? Do you mean #12 on the schematic? I will look at schematic again myself also.

    Again it only leaks when running higher RPM's now whereas before it trickeled when running or just parked--Thanks, DOUG
    Last edited by 56mulberry; 06-27-2008 at 06:09 PM.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56mulberry View Post
    What do you mean TWO rear seals? I have one in each end of a metal ring-shaped piece, with a grease Zerk on it, into which I pressed a bearing and a seal exactly as the ones I removed...
    And re: the "rubber bumpers"--are these small driveshaft sized pieces on the end or large that the driveshaft goes INTO? Do you mean #12 on the schematic? I will look at schematic again myself also.
    My error, there are two seals on the non-MSX through-hull bearing assembly, one on each end.
    My MSX 140 has three seals, two on the water side.

    #12 is the rubber end bumpers I was referring to.

    #1 would be the drive shaft coupler on the PTO end of the engine, which has a rubber vibration isolation insert.
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