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  1. #1

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    1995 Polaris SL750's

    Greetings all, new member & ski owner here.

    I recently acquired (for free might I add) two '95 SL750's that have sat unused for the last 3-4 years. They were fogged prior to being stored.

    They will need some cosmetic help, but before I drop money into that, I'd like to get them running up to par.

    New spark plugs, batteries, gasoline, oil, and fuel lines have been replaced in both of them.

    Ski #1 cranks like it should, but won't fire up without the help of some starting fluid. Leads me believe the carbs need to be cleaned out and possibly rebuilt. Once it's started, it runs and idles decent enough for me to live with until i can get into fine tuning it.

    My problem is with Ski #2.
    Ski #2 would not even crank. I pulled the plugs, and am able to rotate it by hand, however I get fluid out of the spark plug holes as i rotate it. Great, hydrolocked with a bent crank was my first thoughts. I pulled the cylinder domes off, and was pleasantly surprised to find that the crankshaft appears to be straight. (Checked the crank index from directions found on here) It rotates freely by hand. The problem is, the case below the cylinders is full of water. I can see water sitting below the carbs when I open the throttle.

    I plan on ordering the 3 outlet fuel pumps for both in the next few days.

    What kind of problems am I looking at with Ski #2. Also, any thoughts / input would be awesome. I feel a bit out of my element with these fuji motors. I'm right at home wrenching on engines that run out of the water.


  2. #2
    ShaneG's Avatar
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    There are drain plugs in the bottom half of the case. Remove the bolt(s) to get the water out and get some fogging oil into the engine (top and bottom end) Once you get them fired up I would also run some premix 40-1 in the gas tank and not go over 3/4 throttle until you run that tank through.

    Others who are better diagnosticians will surely chime in to help you.

    Welcome to the Hulk..you're in good hands here. People here are great at helping fix or mod these things.

    Shane

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCFirestopper View Post
    ...the case below the cylinders is full of water. I can see water sitting below the carbs when I open the throttle...
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    How did that water get in there?
    How long has it been there?

    I would be rather surprised if the fogging from 4 years ago managed to prevent rusting of the crank shaft bearings with standing water inside the engine.

    I suspect you will need to remove the engine, and disassemble it down to the crank shaft.

    Once you have it in your hands, you can determine whether the bearings are OK. Even a little rust in those bearings can result in catastrophic engine failure at 6,000+ RPM. You would of course re-assemble with new seals, so you would know they were now good too.

    However, if you are feeling lucky, you can drain the crank case, mop it dry, re-lubricate it with some fogging or two stroke oil, and see what happens. Turning it over by hand with the plugs out, you might be able to feel if it feels gritty (rusty bearings), or has slop at TDC or BDC.

  4. #4
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Hi firestopper, WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk Firestopper.

    Ski #2 needs to find out if the crank is rusted. If so, it'll cost a bit to repair. So my thought is if it's rusted, you have a parts ski to make 1 good running ski.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    How did that water get in there? Not sure how it all found its way in there
    How long has it been there? I have no idea, I would say somewhere between a day, and a couple of years.

    I tore down ski #2 today and removed the engine as there was no good way to get to the drain plugs below the exhaust. The water in the crankcase was actually a combination of oil / water, and the crank didn't have the slightest bit of rust on it. Oiled it up, and put the case back together and it spins smooth as butter.

    Looks like a new kit for all the seals and a rebuild of the carbs is in order, and I will post back how it runs.
    Last edited by SCFirestopper; 06-28-2008 at 03:44 PM.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCFirestopper View Post
    I tore down ski #2 today and removed the engine as there was no good way to get to the drain plugs below the exhaust. The water in the crankcase was actually a combination of oil / water, and the crank didn't have the slightest bit of rust on it. Oiled it up, and put the case back together and it spins smooth as butter...
    If that crank runs reliably once you get everything back together, I would say you are a lucky fellow!
    And nothing wrong with that

    Lots of other folks with water inside their engine would love to discover that all it needed was a mopping up and some lube, and not a complete crank up rebuild.

  8. #8

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    So I've made my first mistake.



    I was cleaning the carbs, and noticed this fuel feed was bent. I tried to bend it back, instead of leaving well enough alone, and it snapped off. It's from the center carb at the moment.

    I drilled out & removed what was left of the barbed fitting.

    My question is, will it matter if the barb is a different size then all the rest? If not, I will just go out and buy a barbed fitting, and tap the aluminum rail and install it.

    Better yet, I'd be able to swap the center and PTO cover, and just install a bolt to block the last portion of that (since the last of the fuel feeds on the PTO carb is currently just blocked off).
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  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    I guess that MAY work, but I'd be looking for a replacement. There's tons of spare parts floating around here.

  10. #10

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    More questions.

    I thought I had two 95's on my hand, but as I'm sitting here looking at the oil pump and according to the manual. Pre '95 models had non-adjusting oil pump flows.



    My oil pump looks exactly like this one (sorry, not my pic. Just didn't have my camera with me). I don't see the linkage arm or anything resembling it. I just didn't want to throw it back together and be missing something critical like the linkage arm if it is supposed to be there.

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