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  1. #1

    Everythig reads correct NO SPARK HELP!!!

    POLARIS 1996 SL 900 70 HOURS ON IT

    Problem started 1 year ago. (with original stator and cdi) Ski would start and run great, turn it off and wouldn't start again (NO SPARK). Wait a day it might start or wait another day might start then. Took to polaris dealer and they said stator read okay but upgrade kit would solve problem.


    Problem is everything checks out but no spark.
    Only clue I have is I push start button NO SPARK, the second I release start button 1 SPARK.

    Below are the readings from ph2ocraft 12-03-1996 Thread, system test.

    I have the upgrader stator #4010403 and cdi #4010447

    1. First make sure you have resistor type plugs. YES
    2. Check Ground Continuity. From inside the spark plug cap to the engine, readings should be 6-7K ohms. If this checks good, go to step 3.
    #1 6150, #2 6750, #3 6410
    .....a. If one or two are out of range, remove the plug cap and check the resistance between the wire and engine ground. The reading should be between 1200-1600 ohms without the caps.
    3. Open the electrical box and check for correct connections between the stator, CDI, coils and the board. Check for pinched wires, corroded connections or water in the electrical box.

    PULLED EVERY WIRE AND RECONNECTED CHECKED 2 TIMES
    Spend the extra moment to check the back side of the board for rust.

    PERFECT SHAPE
    .....a. Make sure the yellow stator wire is connected to the "YELLOW" on the terminal board and not the yellow/purple MFD jumper.

    CONNECTED TO YELLOW
    .....b. Make sure the is no continuity between the black/yellow and black on the terminal board (with the tether installed).

    NO CONTINUITY
    .....c. Make sure the red/purple wire at the CDI has 12 volts.

    12.18 VOLTS
    .....d. While cranking make sure the brown wire to the CDI has 5-9 volts.

    5.5
    .....e. Check stator resistance. Black meter wire to the black wire from the stator and the red wire goes to;
    engine stud: 0-1 ohm.

    1 OHM
    Purple Wire: 1200 ohms new system...5.5 ohms

    5.5 OHMS
    Gray Wire: 88 ohms new system...open

    OPEN
    Brown, red, green, blue red/purple: open reading

    ALL OPEN
    Then red/purple to yellow .75 ohms.

    .8 OHMS
    .....f. Disconnect coil wires and check the resistance from the primary side. Black/White to:
    Yellow/Brown: .35 ohms (mag)

    .4 OHMS
    Black/Blue: .35 ohms (center)

    .4 OHMS
    Black/Green: .35 ohms (PTO)

    .4 OHMS
    Secondary Side to:
    1200-1600 ohms without plug cap
    6000-7000 ohms with plug cap.

    #1 6150, #2 6750, #3 6410

    BATTERY FULLY CHARGED




  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    If you get spark when you release the button you have a weak battery OR a bad stator.
    Trippple check you have at least 10.6 volts at the battery while cranking the engine or you will not have enough for the ignition system to fire.

  3. #3

    Ill check battery

    This is second stator that is in. everything reads okay on stator.
    First upgrade stator was put in by person I paid to do it. Read bad so I pulled it out to replace it with 2nd one I bought. Found out guy that put it in didn't clean rust off flywheel, rust was shortig between magnet and stator.

    I cleaded flywheel to like new condition.
    Put new stator in and cdi box. I let friend use ski and he bought battery from autozone. I am going to buy new battery fron water sports store. whats best battery in your opion.

    Rob

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadinwater View Post
    ...I am going to buy new battery from water sports store.
    What's the best battery in your opinion...
    An AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) is the best battery type. Sealed, so no vent nipple or possibility of acid leakage. Vibration tough, high power output, low rate of self discharge.

    Do buy a good quality battery maintainer, one that is compatible with AGM batteries (the cheap trickle chargers often are not). AGM batteries have slightly higher voltages, hence the need for an AGM compatible charger.

    I like the Deka AGM battery from East Penn, also sold under the West Marine brand SeaVolt. As shown in the pictures, I modified the plastic 20mm battery height spacer that is packaged with the Deka battery, so I could use the top cable connection on the positive battery post.

    East Penn's web site has some very solid battery information. Good stuff in their PDF.

    I like the VDC Electronics battery maintainers. I have the 12248 model.
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    Last edited by K447; 07-01-2008 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Added links to East-Penn info

  5. #5

    battery

    If this new battery solves my problem it will be the first battery that has cost 1 year of time and around $900. in parts and labor.

    Thanks

  6. #6

    Ski STARTED!!!!

    ph2ocraft, figured problem first try.

    At beginning of season I put cheap motorcycle battery in ski and it started once then never again. New battery so I new that wasn't the problem.

    Took to 2 polaris dealers and ski repair shop and they couldn't find problem.

    Took member K447 battery suggestion and put in ski.

    1st crank ski started.

    Moral of story: You buy sh_t, You get sh_t.


    Thanks forum

  7. #7
    Watcon's Avatar
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    I like that battery.

    BD,

    I need to order one of those, can you send me some info?
    Thanks,
    Randy

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadinwater View Post
    If this new battery solves my problem it will be the first battery that has cost 1 year of time and around $900. in parts and labor...
    You would not be the first person to be lead astray by a marginal battery, that just SEEMS to be good.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadinwater View Post
    ...At beginning of season I put cheap motorcycle battery in ski and it started once then never again. New battery so I knew that wasn't the problem.

    Took to 2 Polaris dealers and ski repair shop and they couldn't find problem.

    Took member K447's Deka battery suggestion and put it in the ski. 1st crank and the ski started.

    Moral of story: You buy sh_t, You get sh_t.

    Thanks forum
    Glad to be able to help.

    Batteries that SEEM to be good, but are actually marginal at best, are very common.

    I don't know why, but for some reason people often resist paying for a top notch battery, and just keep trying to make their old battery work - and it too often just won't do the job!

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