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  1. #1

    2001 1200XLT D Plate install questions from a Rookie

    Hey all.. this is such a great site...I appreciate all of the info I have learned.

    Based on a frequent "Exhaust" alarms on my 2001 1200XLT, I have decided to install the D Plate from Riva as well as the sensor insert.

    A couple of questions:

    1) Riva's instructions simply tell me to "remove the Catalytic Converter and Exhaust sendoe wires from the OE CID". I have been trying to remove theese couplings for hours with no luck. Am I missing something? They are tucked way up high in the hull so I basicallt had to pry to coupling from the mount and I stll can't figure out how to detach the dran thing...is there a special tool or something?

    2) I have removed all of the bolts/clamps that Riva suggests including the 4 bracket bolts on the head and the bolt on the rear mount, but I still cannot budged my stinger...It seems like the stinger is frozen in place or something. Is it neccessary to remove the horizontal bolts that go through the 2 brackets on the head and run into to stinger? Should I use a rubber mallet or something to try to knock it free?

    Thanks for anyone's thoughts on this....my 2 hour mod is now running into the 2nd day and, although I'm pretty mechanically inclined, I'm starting to wonder if I'm missing something...

    Thanks,

    KC


  2. #2
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    welcome to the forum !

    on the rear stinger pipe, there is a bracket part number #69 that bolts to the #2 and #3 cylinders that need a 12mm socket and extension to get to. Looking from the top of the motor between the head and pipe you will see a bracket that mounts under the pipe, but also has two bolts that attach it to the head. #70

    On those couplers, there is an outer coupler that is black and an inner coupler that is grey. Once you loosen the band clamps on the outer coupler, you can spray some glass cleaner and help lubricate it to slide it back. The glass cleaner will evaporate and not leave a slippery mess. (You want these couplers dry and residue free when you reinstall.). The inner grey coupler also has band clamps, but one you slide the black coupler foward, you can see the rear band clamp on the grey coupler. Just loosen the rear one from the grey coupler and it will help allow the separation of the rear stinger once you have all the bolts loose.

    The drian hose on the black coupler between the u-pipe and stinger can stay. Once you push/pull the rubber coupler out of the way, the hose can stay attached.

    There is also a rubber exhaust coupler at the end of the stinger that needs to be removed also.

    Don't forget the rear stinger mount bolt near the back of the #3 cylinder that mounts on the engine upper case half.

    Also, take the time to look in my signature and download a copy of the service manual for your ski. The service manuals are also in the How-to section of the forum or type in service manuals.

    It is part #69 below

    EXHAUST SYSTEM
    Last edited by RX951; 07-01-2008 at 07:34 AM.

  3. #3
    mrbtd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcfunk View Post
    1) Riva's instructions simply tell me to "remove the Catalytic Converter and Exhaust sendoe wires from the OE CID". I have been trying to remove theese couplings for hours with no luck. Am I missing something? They are tucked way up high in the hull so I basicallt had to pry to coupling from the mount and I stll can't figure out how to detach the dran thing...is there a special tool or something?

    KC
    Been there done that . Use a small scredriver and take the entire connector off of the metal plate. It is much easier to work with it then.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the info guys. I think I'll tak this one step at a time.

    Once I get the Exhaust sensor electrical couplings free from the mounting bracket, I am having difficulty detaching them without breaking them. I need to do this to get the stinger out as well as insering the resistor so the alarm doesn't go off anymore.

    Is there a trick to depressing the three prongs on on each coupling to get them detached?

    I feel like I'm going to pull the wires out of the male/female connectors if I pull any harder. I've been trying to depress the prongs with a small allen wrench to no avail. I wonder if there's a special tool out there or if i should use a drill to get rid of the prongs.

    KC

  5. #5
    OK...I figured it out...there's a small tab on each electrical coupling that needs to depressed to slide the coupling apart.....glad i finally found it.

    Phew....thanks again for the replies.

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