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  1. #1

    Waterbox RAVE valve question.

    Should the red screw be screwed all the way down, all the way out or the same as the rave's on the cylinders?

    Currently, my XPL's RAVE's are set all the way in on the cylinders and the rear one is flush with the cap. Is this correct? Whats that RAVE valve actually control?


  2. #2

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    No, All the stock 951 rear (pipe water) valve adj that I have seen have been about flush.

    Weak spring adj (red cap up) will shut water injection back faster and dry out the pipe (better top end) Crank it down and it will take more rpm to shut down the injection..

    The valves on the cyl control the rave blades. I might be backwards but blades down enhances lower end performance. 6000rpm the valves open raising port height to optimize top end HP
    Last edited by dog paw; 07-02-2008 at 06:51 PM.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dog paw View Post
    No, All the stock 951 rear (pipe water) valve adj that I have seen have been about flush.

    Weak spring adj (red cap up) will shut water injection back faster and dry out the pipe (better top end) Crank it down and it will take more rpm to shut down the injection..

    The valves on the cyl control the rave blades. I might be backwards but blades down enhances lower end performance. 6000rpm the valves open raising port height to optimize top end HP

    So where should I set the red screw on the waterbox rave?

    Rave's shouldnt cause a loss in RPM's, correct?

  4. #4

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    If memory serves my RX was around 3/4 turn in from the top. While your in that area make sure the bellows are good and the lines and injector nozzel are clear

    The Rave valves on the cyl will definantly cause rpm loss when they malfuntion. Make sure all lines are in good shape. With the caps removed the valves should work freely up and down. Bellows fail sometimes but sludge and goop on the blades are usually the culprit for poor valve performance. Pull them and check it out.

    As far as the adj on the "cyl" valves I'd have to check the manual. I'd leave them at stock settings. In toying with my RX I never saw a kick in the pants change one way or the other. Out of all the changes I made on mine those adj are still stock, I did back the water valve off as far as it would go..

  5. #5
    I've cleaned the rave's and they are working properly. Cleaned carbs, and done everything I've found to do and I'm still down RPM's. It will only turn 6500-6600, but by the factory Speedometer it's going over 60mph on smooth water and a 1/4 tank of fuel.

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    You will melt couplers if you unscrew it too far and go wot. I'm with Dog Paw...3/4 in from flush.

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBradshaw00 View Post
    I've cleaned the rave's and they are working properly. Cleaned carbs, and done everything I've found to do and I'm still down RPM's. It will only turn 6500-6600, but by the factory Speedometer it's going over 60mph on smooth water and a 1/4 tank of fuel.
    Check the vacuum line that goes to the RAVES from the crankcase, (under the rear carb, loops under the engine), and make sure the solenoid coil at the tee is plugged in too. This will kill max rpms to the max you mention when they aren't opening.

  8. #8
    levonhelmet's Avatar
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    my shop manual says tighten all the way in and then 3 full turns out for adjustment on my 800.the 951 says it is factory calibrated and does not need adjustment.this is all from my seadoo shop manual...my 2c

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