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  1. #1

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    92 SL 650 Cooling Concerns

    Started the break-in process for my 92 SL 650 after a rebuild and have a concern with the cooling. The cylinders seem to be getting hot but I'm not sure on how hot they should be before damage will occur. After letting it run for about 15 minutes, I can touch the cylinders & heads for about 2 seconds then have to move my hand, is this too hot? The jet pump is disconnected from the engine and using the garden hose method for initial break-in.

    For what was done with the rebuild was new piston & rings, seals, all new gas lines, 3 outlet fuel pump and blocked off the oil injection. The engine was completely taken apart and everything was cleaned out and inspected so there shouldn't be any issues with water flow unless I'm missing something. Pop-off valve was also completely taken apart and cleaned.

    I'm really don't want to put all this time in on the rebuild and then have the thing burn up. Maybe I'm just being over cautious. Please help????


  2. #2
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    First off,You shouldn't be running it that long on a hose.You don't get the same flow as in the water,If you want to run it to break-in,do it on a trailer in the water. Second in my opinion,the break in should be done riding. Take it out and bring it up to temp. Then get on it some and bring it back and let it cool,then repeat. Idling without a hose for break in is not what you want,to get the rings to set,you only have a set amount of time.Rings get sitted in only while the cross hatching is in the bore. And what allows that is by pressure in the cyl pushing the rings out under load.I hope you can understand what I'm getting at.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    First off,You shouldn't be running it that long on a hose.You don't get the same flow as in the water,If you want to run it to break-in,do it on a trailer in the water. Second in my opinion,the break in should be done riding. Take it out and bring it up to temp. Then get on it some and bring it back and let it cool,then repeat. Idling without a hose for break in is not what you want,to get the rings to set,you only have a set amount of time.Rings get sitted in only while the cross hatching is in the bore. And what allows that is by pressure in the cyl pushing the rings out under load.I hope you can understand what I'm getting at.
    Ok, I guess I read posts on this forum that stated the initial break-in process can be done with the hose as long as the pump is disconnected. I'm heading out to the lake tonight so the rest of the break-in will be done there.

    How can I tell on what is "Too Hot" for the cylinder's and head? Is it a touch/feel test or is there a certain temp range that they should be running at?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polaris24 View Post
    ...I guess I read posts on this forum that stated the initial break-in process can be done with the hose as long as the pump is disconnected.
    Where did you read that?
    (So we can correct or clarify the post)

    The engine can be run for longer on the hose without the jet pump bearings being damaged if the pump and drive shaft are removed, but you must also run the cooling water through the normal inlet hose, not the water bar reverse flush fitting. This would be for diagnostic purposes, not for engine break-in.

    I'm heading out to the lake tonight so the rest of the break-in will be done there.

    How can I tell on what is "Too Hot" for the cylinder's and head? Is it a touch/feel test or is there a certain temp range that they should be running at?
    Engine temp check is to put your hand on the engine heads and exhaust manifolds.

    If you can hold your hand there for a 1-2-3 count, and it is warm to very warm, but not burn-your-skin hot, then it is probably OK.

    Ideal cylinder water temp (which I would not expect you to be measuring) would be about 143F, give or take.

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