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  1. #1

    Help Rex fix his driveshaft/carbon seal thread...

    Well I think I'm cursed as far as the month of July goes. 2 years in a row now and down with issues. This year I think the problem is pretty managable, but I have no clue as to what to do with this subject.

    Was out riding and started cavatating REALLY bad. Could not get above 3K RPM and the SC would start slipping because the pump was sucking so much air. Got back in thought maybe I sucked up a rope. Not the case. Pulled the engine cowling and there is a good amount of water in the hull with spray marks all over the SC intake, SC, and around the driveshaft area. So immediately I'm thinking carbon seal gone bye-bye. Put the ski back in the water and just float it, and water is coming in pretty fast right where the driveshaft goes into the black seal (Im not sure if this is the carbon seal or not, but it's right near the first clamp around where the driveshaft goes thru the hull).

    So what do I have to do? I haven't touched a thing yet, but obviously the pump is going to have to be pulled, SC intake pulled, SC pulled, all so I can access the driveshaft. Anything else? How quick of a fix is this? Could I be up and running again tomorrow or do I need special tools to remove the driveshaft or what? Finally what are my options for fixing this, a new carbon seal or what else is there?

    This sucks. Ski with the new mods (RR wheel and spacer, 42# injectors, GH waterbox, and j-pipe flare) is just amazing. Like putting in a external IC all over again.


    Thanks a ton fellas. I'm looking forward to this being a learning experience.


  2. #2
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Yep carbon seal Rex....You gonna need the Tool for pulling the hat back so you can get the c-clip off the drive shaft..Your gonna want to leave the pump in for this....After you get the clip off pull the pump out,then slide the driveshaft out..After you have the shaft out loosen the hose clamp on your black bellow that holds the carbon seal..slide the old one out,put the new one in..that simple... Then just reverse the procedure to install...Also be careful when pulling the shaft out so you dont pull the bearing out in the PTO cover..and when installin make sure the little rubber nipple is on the tip of the driveshaft..

    If you have the tools and parts to do this you should be up in an hour....
    Last edited by Snoman; 07-03-2008 at 03:44 PM.

  3. #3
    Okie dokie. So where can I get this tool?

  4. #4
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    I know Jerry sells them BUT being a holiday weekend and you want to ride this weekend you might want to see if your dealer has one either you can buy or borrow...IF not see if they can at least pull the hat back for ya...

    Here is what it looks like:

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=645

  5. #5
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    If you want to try it you can use a 1-1/2" end wrench with a helper and push the hat (floating ring seal) towards the rear of the boat and unclip the c-clip. Use the end wrench to hold the pto bearing on the engine in place while the helper pulls the shaft out. If the shaft is rusted where the floating ring is spray it with PB Blaster or some strong anti-sieze. There are o-rings on the floating ring and in the pto bearing...so they will be a little tight to slipout. Regrease them with silicone grease when putting the drive shaft back in but do not get any grease on the carbon ring. Keep it clean against the floating ring, even clean it with alchol so it will seal well.

  6. #6

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    A more likely canidate is the accordian BOOT !!!!!!!! I've blown 2 of them

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jawz View Post
    A more likely canidate is the accordian BOOT !!!!!!!! I've blown 2 of them
    Jeff do you have a picture of it? What does it look like? Because I can see right were the leak is coming from. It's right where the shaft goes into the black seal or something and the leak is shooting straight up. Also it leaks when the ski is not on. I always thought the carbon seal only leaked when running?

  8. #8
    JFizzleJR's Avatar
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    The accordian boot is the black ruffled seal that you can see when you look at the driveshaft exiting the hull. The carbon ring is inside the accordian boot.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by JFizzleJR View Post
    The accordian boot is the black ruffled seal that you can see when you look at the driveshaft exiting the hull. The carbon ring is inside the accordian boot.
    It's not the accordian boot then. This leak is right where the driveshaft goes into the black seal??? area. Is the first thing the driveshaft goes thru the carbon seal?



    Also question about what would have caused this...my ski only has 77.1 hours on it. Seems like a low amount of hours for the carbon seal to go. Any chance a misaligned engine would cause this? Also I am still running the stock front motor mount, could the increase in HP and torque of the engine cause this? Ski showed no signs of the carbon seal going out 2 weeks ago. It just seems so sudden for it to go. Is that normal?

  10. #10
    David 1 FAST VE's Avatar
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    You can pull it back with your hand as I have done it many times, no need for the tool.

    Go to the hardware store with the boot and get an "o" ring slightly smaller than the boot and put it on before the boot.

    It will space the boot out a 1/32" and add pressure to the boot and help if the boot is not applying enough pressure.

    SD sells this O ring as a fix and it really does work if the problem is there.

    Good Luck

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