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  1. #1

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    2001 Virage TX 1200 Ficht

    Just got home with a 2001 Virage TX 1200 FICHT Ram Injection, I won it on eBay for a song. We want to use it for the 4th of July and I can't figure out a way to flush the engine, I have searched past threads nothing....
    And..... The display is on, does it turn off? Is there a fuel shut off? A fuel turn on? I can't find any manuals!!!! Is this why I got it for a song?
    Have a great 4th!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetwelder View Post
    Just got home with a 2001 Virage TX 1200 FICHT Ram Injection, I won it on eBay for a song. We want to use it for the 4th of July and I can't figure out a way to flush the engine, I have searched past threads nothing....
    And..... The display is on, does it turn off? Is there a fuel shut off? A fuel turn on? I can't find any manuals!!!! Is this why I got it for a song?
    Have a great 4th!
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    I cannot comment on why you got it for a song, but the 2002 Service Manual is here.

    There is no fuel shut off valve, the fuel pump and just about everything else is controlled by the Ficht EMM electronic controller.

    Reverse flushing the cooling system requires the installation of a Polaris Flush Kit. If yours does not have one installed into the red water cooling bar that runs across the top of the engine (the white hose fitting in upper left of attached photo), then you cannot easily reverse flush the engine.
    Is there a reason you think the engine needs reverse flushing?

    Before you start riding, take the time to check the machine over carefully. Getting stranded on the water the first time out, or even sinking, is not a good way to start off.

    You should have received an Owner's manual for your 2001 Virage TXi. If you didn't, I think you can download one from Polaris. You will have to create an online 'account', but there is no charge for the Owner's manual downloads.

    I know you want to just get out on the water. Take the time to READ the Owner's Manual thoroughly.

    Unless you are already familiar with Polaris and PWC, these machines are fast and powerful, and can hurt you in an eye-blink if you don't know what to expect, and how to treat them.

    Also, you should assume that NONE of the Polaris recommended maintenance has been done. You should go through the maintenance check list carefully, and check things for your self.

    Do a compression check. All three cylinders should be within 10% (preferably closer) of each other.

    Put a multi-meter on the battery (do not rely on the MFI voltage display just yet), and confirm it has at least 11.0 volts while cranking the engine, before it starts. If not, plan to replace the battery. A weak battery is likely to fail when you least want it to, on the water.
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  3. #3

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    Thanks for reply, I will be using in salt water, my cooling bar has a brass threaded nut on the opposite side of yours, I guess I can remove that and add attachment? Is Display panel always supposed to be on?
    Thank you,
    wetwelder

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetwelder View Post
    ...I will be using in salt water, my cooling bar has a brass threaded nut on the opposite side of yours, I guess I can remove that and add attachment?
    Is Display panel always supposed to be on?...
    There should be brass threaded plugs on both sides of the water bar. The inner one is too close to the PTO injector body, which you do not want to damage. The outer one is the one you would attach a cooling fitting to.

    You can fabricate your own flushing connection, using an adapter to a garden hose fitting. Remember that if this fitting leaks while you are riding, you will be pumping water into your hull. If not noticed, it can accumulate and sink your boat, or water can get drawn into the engine air intake, damaging it. So be sure this is properly sealed when you are not using it, so engine vibration will not loosen anything or create a leak.

    If your Polaris was operated in salt water, you should assume there has been a lot of salt build-up inside the cooling passages.

    My own salt water Virage TXi had significant build-up, yet the owner claimed to have flushed it after every ride (see attached photos of my thermostat and water bar, salt water use vs. fresh water use). Note the presence of large salt crystals inside the water bar.

    The absence of a flush connection on yours means it might never have been flushed. I suggest you dis-assemble the thermostat housing, and see what condition things are in.

    Plan to run a lot of Salt-Away through the motor. To make extensive flushing easier, disconnect and cap off the water fitting that feeds the exhaust water injection. Then you don't have to run the engine while flushing.

    At the same time, remove, inspect and clean the screen filter for the exhaust water injection (MSX 140 exhaust shown, your Virage TXi should be similar). Be sure to reconnect it before running the engine next time.

    The water injection into the exhaust system is the entire reason the engine normally must be running while flushing the cooling system, to prevent this water from running back into the engine exhaust ports. With the exhaust water hose capped, there is no water spraying into the exhaust, and no need to run the engine.

    If you do NOT cap the exhaust water injection hose, then you MUST start the engine before starting the cooling/flushing water flow, and then stop the water flow before stopping the engine. This allows the normal exhaust gases to push the injected water out the back of the exhaust system.

    On land, you should limit engine running time to two minutes or less, with a good cool down period before you do it again, to prevent friction heat damage to the uncooled through-hull and jet pump seals and bearings

    When I first flushed my salt water Polaris (which now only sees fresh water), I flushed it with HOT water from my domestic hot water tap, then flushed it with Salt-Away.

    Salt-Away leaves a chemical film that continues to break down salt deposits, and if you are running in salt water, should be regularly used as part of your flushing routine.
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  6. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetwelder View Post
    Is Display panel always supposed to be on?...
    The Virage TXi MFI display should normally show the clock when just sitting, and the rest of it 'wakes up' when you press the Display button, or start the engine.

    It takes several minutes of no activity for the display to settle into 'sleep' mode, with just the clock visible.
    Last edited by K447; 07-04-2008 at 09:02 AM.

  7. #6

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    How do you make your own flush kit with a garden hose?

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetwelder View Post
    How do you make your own flush kit with a garden hose?
    You need an adapter to screw into the water manifold (water bar), where there is a brass plug threaded in.

    A barbed threaded pipe nipple fitting, a short section of hose, and a male garden hose fitting, and you can connect your hose. You should also have a water shut off valve to control the water flow at the boat, not just back at the wall tap.

    It is VERY important that you have a well fitting, non-leaking, securely screwed on cap to install when not using the garden hose. You do not want this fitting to be leaking water into the hull while you are riding.

    The non-Ficht Polaris flush kit looks like the attached photo. It has two parts. One permanently attaches to the engine water bar (upper half of picture..

    The other part screws onto the garden hose (lower half in photo). Then the two sections clip together.

    The connector features spring loaded seals, so it does not allow water to flow if the two parts are not connected together.
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  9. #8
    I have a 2011 Polaris 1200 Virage TXi, my 1st ski & I'm trying to learn daily. I need to flush the system as it was ridden in salt water just once late this year. I don't want to run the engine, so I'm trying to follow what you posted. I just don't think I understand where to cap off the fitting. At the exhaust housing itself or the hose? Then I can run a salt away solution through the system for as long as I need, correct? Pull out the screen fitting & cap off at where the screen connects, or cap off the hose that attaches to the screen fitting?

    Thanks,
    Last edited by Brian4005; 09-23-2016 at 01:07 PM. Reason: email was attached

  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian4005 View Post
    I have a 2011 Polaris 1200 Virage TXi, my 1st ski & I'm trying to learn daily. I need to flush the system as it was ridden in salt water just once late this year.

    I don't want to run the engine, so I'm trying to follow what you posted. I just don't think I understand where to cap off the fitting. At the exhaust housing itself or the hose?

    Then I can run a salt away solution through the system for as long as I need, correct? Pull out the screen fitting & cap off at where the screen connects, or cap off the hose that attaches to the screen fitting?

    Thanks,
    Welcome

    2001 model, I presume.

    A single ride on salt water is not going to require heroic anti-salt efforts. One good treatment is probably sufficient. A second treatment the next day would be more than enough.

    If you are concerned about salt accumulation you can open the thermostat housing and inspect.

    I suggest a more thorough exposure to the salt-away product would be provided by feeding the flush water in via the normal water cooling feed rather than the reverse flush fitting on the water manifold bar.

    The water feed hose can can be found very low in the hull just to the right of the jet pump inlet tunnel. It is a 3/4" hose. You can disconnect the hose from the hull fitting and install a 3/4" hose barb to garden hose adapter.

    Alternate method is to remove the jet pump exit nozzle, then slide a section of 1 inch ID hose over the rear end of the plastic water tube. This is the normal flow conduit for cooling water from the jet pump. Connect to garden hose with suitable adapter.

    Regarding the exhaust water injection, you can clamp the small water hose to block flow or disconnect the hose and cap it. The water flow comes from the front orifice fitting.

    You can remove that threaded fitting to inspect the mesh screen inside (yellow thread sealing tape visible on that fitting in this photo).

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    Last edited by K447; 09-23-2016 at 02:12 PM.

  11. #10
    Thanks.

    The water feed hose can be found very low in the hull just to the right of the jet pump inlet tunnel. It is a 3/4" hose. You can disconnect the hose from the hull fitting and install a 3/4" hose barb to garden hose adapter.
    This would be the vertical part of the hose in the pic? Just disconnect and insert a 3/4" hose barb to garden hose. I can also fill a large bucket with Salt-Away and use a pump to get into cooling system? Where will the circulated water discharge?

    Any color weather storage thoughts? use Anti-freeze in cooling system? I have fuel stabilizer, So I've got that part covered.

    Thanks once again.

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