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  1. #1

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    Rejetting carbs? to do or not do?

    I have a 2000 GP1200R I did the mods below on it last year myself. I took it out for the first time this year it ran great for about a 5 minutes I had it up to about 60mph and it bogged down. I found out that the #1 cylinder wasn't firing. I had spark so I assumed it was carb/fuel related. I bought the carb rework kit (seals, gaskets, needle/seat) and started redoing carbs I'm done now, and now I'm seeing threads about rejetting with the "T" handle. Ihaven't messed with the tamper caps. This is the first time the carbs have ever been done, I know lucky. Had it up to 69 on GPS last fall, yipee!

    I still have the carbs off, I'm waiting on a oil/blockoff kit. So should I do it? Will it make a difference I'm not great at fine tunning. I don't have a popoff tester although I think I have everything to make one. Just looking for some good advise .

    Thanks,

    Tom


  2. #2
    All hail the Chief! fullboogie's Avatar
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    If you plan to tinker with the ski and modify it, you will certainly need the T handles - and now's the time to do it. It's easy as pie, just takes patience and time.

  3. #3
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    http://www.cajundude.com/techpagehome.htm

    Here are are a bunch of How-To's for the GPR. It includes the carb removal, rejetting and t-handles

  4. #4
    There is no winter in Hawaii! tnerb's Avatar
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    I rebuilt my carbs the first time to eliminate a bogging that turned into a no idle issue. I didn't pull the tamper caps and low and high speed screws the first time, put it all back together and same issue.

    I pulled them out again and have pulled the caps, took out the screws rejetted and disabled the accellerator pump. The carbs are back on the motor nearly completed the hookup of the cables, oil and fuel lines. Hope to have it ready to run this weekend so I will know if that fixed the problem.

    The "T" handles are just the high and low speed screws that are adjustable without tools. I didn't change mine just adjusted them to what alot of guys are running with the same set up.

    I am assuming that you have the stock air intake, I upgraded to Riva flame arrestors and if you go that route rejetting is necesary because of less restriction in the flow of air.

    If you are going to rebuild I would do it right and pull everything. Hopefully this will fix your issue and you won't have to do it again for a while.

    Here is a good jetting post http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30369

    There are alot of great guys willing to help on these boards. Use the search and read up, there are alot of posts about carb rebuilding and setups.

  5. #5

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    Thanks!

    Thanks, guys! I'm going to do the T-handles and figure out how to dial those bad boys in with the the pop-off pressure and so on. I wanted to get out this weekend but it looks like I be playing with my carbs (that just sounds bad).

    Brent, I've been reading some of your posts and learned a lot from your pictures and videos (you too Oside). Let me know if those Riva flame arrestors make a noticible difference. I might do that if its worth it.

    Thanks again

  6. #6
    There is no winter in Hawaii! tnerb's Avatar
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    I am new to these 2 stroke motors, Oside Bill is one of the guys that helped me alot with the carbs. I am just glad that I can post some information and pictures so everyone can see.

    I have my XLT all back together, but it is too late to pull the skis out of the garage and run it, so tomorrow will be the test. I will let you know how it goes.

    The worst part of these skis is not having any access to the carbs with the exhaust installed. Good luck, as you can see from my posts my rebuild has taken a long time, most of it waiting for parts.

  7. #7
    If your not doing something, its hard to screw up. stlouisramsfan's Avatar
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    Brent
    I have been following your post... i hope it works out today, youve done a hell of alot of work to get these carbs going... btw your explanations are very helpful, somebody will be doing my carbs this winter just not sure if i want to try this i will probably pay for it....

  8. #8
    All hail the Chief! fullboogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnerb View Post
    The worst part of these skis is not having any access to the carbs with the exhaust installed.
    What do you not have access to? The highs are right there for tuning with a long handle screwdriver with a slot cut into the end (you know about cutting a hole in the exhaust bracket for access to #2, right?) and the lows are accessible from the rear - you may have to take the battery box out. But once you set the lows, you should never have to touch them again.

    Set up properly, you should be able to tune all three highs while out on the water in about 15 seconds.

  9. #9
    There is no winter in Hawaii! tnerb's Avatar
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    I was very pleased to hear the engine purr along at a nice idle and rev freely. All the work seems to have paid off. I got the idle to settle down at about 1200-1300 RPM. Tomorow I am going to make some time to go to the water and see how she runs.

    stlouisramsfan, I was worried about trying this myself but in the end it all worked out and I figured if I screwed it up I would either work more at it or pay someone else to do it, so I kept going. Couldn't have done it without the help of the guys on this board, especially Oside Bill, thanks man!

    Fullboogie, after reading your post I looked at the motor since it is all back together and I can see how the #1 would be easy and the #2 could be accessed through the bracket (never heard of cutting a hole, have to do a search on that one), but #3 looks impossible. Any tips? The lows may be accessible on a GP but on the XLT I don't see how to get to them. I am hoping I got the setup right and will be happy with the performance.

    I am just ready to get back out on the water. I will let you guys know how she runs.

  10. #10
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnerb View Post
    I was very pleased to hear the engine purr along at a nice idle and rev freely. All the work seems to have paid off. I got the idle to settle down at about 1200-1300 RPM. Tomorow I am going to make some time to go to the water and see how she runs.

    stlouisramsfan, I was worried about trying this myself but in the end it all worked out and I figured if I screwed it up I would either work more at it or pay someone else to do it, so I kept going. Couldn't have done it without the help of the guys on this board, especially Oside Bill, thanks man!

    Fullboogie, after reading your post I looked at the motor since it is all back together and I can see how the #1 would be easy and the #2 could be accessed through the bracket (never heard of cutting a hole, have to do a search on that one), but #3 looks impossible. Any tips? The lows may be accessible on a GP but on the XLT I don't see how to get to them. I am hoping I got the setup right and will be happy with the performance.

    I am just ready to get back out on the water. I will let you guys know how she runs.
    Brent it was my pleasure helping you out. You asked what you could do for me, I said help someone when you can. Well youre doing a hell of Job Thanks Bro

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