07-11-2008, 08:48 AM #11
If I may add.....
great thread Ross, ....if I may add ^
Last edited by RX951; 07-11-2008 at 08:50 AM.
07-11-2008, 10:24 AM #12
07-11-2008, 10:30 AM #13
Sorry I am late joining this thread Ross... wrote this up the other day and got busy
At the request of one of the top tuners on the forum, me and Rossnemo have decided to put up some threads about the Riva and R&D EFI controllers. Hopefully this will help people decide what settings to use and when a controller is actually needed. Settings vary from boat to boat, but hopefully some of this info will be a good starting point. This info is from my personal experience and not just "I read somewhere" facts.
The Riva controller has 3 mixture settings (idle/midrange/high speed) and a crossover setting. You should read the dials like you read a clock. Also read the controller with the wires coming out of the right side. Top dial is idle circuit.
-First off when is a controller really needed ?
Contrary to popular belief, you do not need a controller when adding an air filter or freeflow exhaust. The WOT fuel mapping is pretty rich already on top end from the factory. This also applies when installing a D-plate, an aftermarket prop, a rideplate or any aftermarket handling parts.
-Do I need one when adding just aftermarket reeds ?
Reeds help with air/fuel delivery. I feel a controller is really not needed for WOT circuit, but I do recommend adding one with aftermarket reeds because it helps smooth out midrange circuit.
-Do I need one with higher compression ?
-Do I need a controller when installing just a Jetworks modifiction ?
Not at all
-Do I need a controller with a keyway ?
We have run a stock 06 with just a 3degree keyway with no EFI controller and had no problems. Pistonwash looked fine.
-Do I need a controller with porting ?
Absolutely. Porting an engine is when you really need the controller the most. Obviously along with porting you will add compression, aftermarket reeds, exhaust freeflow, and air filter.
Lets look at some combinations...
-Aftermarket air filter and freeflow- no controller needed
-Milled head, air filter, freeflow- yes recommended
-Air filter and reeds- not needed but recommended
-Milled head, reeds, airfilter, freeflow- yes needed
-Milled head, air filter, advance timing keyway- yes needed
-Porting with all the goodies- yes needed
Last edited by WFO; 07-12-2008 at 09:04 AM.
07-11-2008, 10:36 AM #14
I have been setting up the non-powervalve and powervalve motors a little differently on the crossover setting.
Typically you want the red light to come on in the 5200-5800 rpm range on powervalve motors. Lately I have lowered the crossover setting on non-powervalve motors to the 4700-4900 rpms range. This seems to help with the inherent non-powervalve cruise circuit stumble. It does slightly reduce the midrange "snap", but seems to smooth out the cruise stumble around 4900-5200 rpms.
07-11-2008, 10:53 AM #15
Typical baseline settingsNon ported 1300 engines baseline EFI settings.
Ported 1300 engines baseline EFI settings.
Ported 1390 engines baseline settings.
Baseline 1300 settings
radical motor ported settings (reeds w/lots of timing and compression)
Last edited by WFO; 07-11-2008 at 10:56 AM.
07-11-2008, 05:21 PM #16
great info!! I learn something here every day.
07-11-2008, 10:10 PM #17
My 1st engine seizure ocurred when my Riva EFI controller failed. At the time I had free flow, milled stock head & race filter. Be safe rather than sorry - get the controller even with minimal engine mods (and run premix)
07-11-2008, 10:54 PM #18
07-11-2008, 11:26 PM #19
Last edited by rossnemo; 07-11-2008 at 11:38 PM.
07-12-2008, 12:03 AM #20
(As Ross stated, no controller is really needed but is recommended (milled head) because of the help it provides in the midrange)
My original post did not say that, you may want to re-read it.
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