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  1. #1

    Help, 93' SL750 need to put oil in crank before startup???

    Can someone help?? I have replaced all the pistons in my 93' SL750 as well as a new jug, I have extracted all the old oil in the crank prior to rebuild, everything is all back together, but I do not want to start it without oil in the crank. Right or wrong? How much oil is necessary to have in there, and how should I get it in there? Is there a way.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Spray some fogging oil down the carb throats, with the throttle held open. Squirt a little bit into each spark plug hole. That should be enough lube for starting it, as long as the oil lines don't have air pockets in them.

    Mix some oil into the fuel, if you are still using the oil injection system, then about 50:1 oil in the gas tank should be plenty.

    When you first start it, you can manually hold the oil pump arm towards the fully open position, and it will pump more oil few a half-minute or so. That should be plenty. Don't forget to not run it too long without cooling water.

    If you are running pre-mixed fuel+oil, then 32:1 for break in, then 40:1 afterwards.

    Proper break-in requires running it on the open water, so don't idel for very long.

  3. #3
    Thanks a million. It is oil injected, so that helps sufficiently. I have the water intake hose connector. Am I able to use that for start-up testing?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dubstylguy View Post
    ...I have the water intake hose connector. Am I able to use that for start-up testing?
    Be careful with the water connection.

    The flush connection on the water bar does not provide 100% cooling, and you must not run the engine for more than two minutes, MAX. Grease the through-hull bearing before you start, to minimize bearing overheat while running on the hose.

    To avoid getting water inside the engine (which would be bad), always follow this sequence;
    Engine running first, THEN water flow on.
    Water flow OFF, then engine off.

    Don't be in a super rush to get the water flowing. A cold engine can run for 10 seconds or so without water and will be OK.

    When you shut down, turn the water off first, then burp the throttle once or twice to push excess water out the exhaust system, then kill the motor. Takes a few seconds total to do all this.

    If you run the water without the engine running, water can flow backwards inside the exhaust pipe and flow into the engine through the exhaust ports.

  5. #5
    Hi, is this the 50:1 good for a new rebuilt 780 with a big bore job? I started mine and turned water on and only let it run for less that a minute and the jugs were getting hot on me when I touch them with my hand.Did I not let it run long enough.I didnt have any oil in the tank and its still injected but I put at least 4.ozs. per each gallon that I put in.I only mixed 2 gallons.Thanks,Johnnyrod

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyrod View Post
    ...is this 50:1 good for a newly rebuilt 780 with a big bore job?

    I started mine and turned water on and only let it run for less that a minute and the jugs were getting hot on me when I touch them with my hand. Did I not let it run long enough?
    What do you mean, didn't run it long enough on the hose?
    Hose operation is just to verify that you don't have any water leaks, and that the engine is put together and operating as expected.
    If you are using the reverse flush connection on the water bar for the garden hose, it will not fully cool the engine, especially the front cylinder.
    Normal water jacket temperature for the engine is around 140-150F, give or take. That is when operating on the water, not the hose, with the thermostat in place and working properly.

    I didn't have any oil in the tank and its still injected
    Why would you not have oil in the oil tank, if the oil injection system is still in place?
    Either put oil in the oil tank, and bleed the air out of the lines, OR remove the oil pump and lines (install block off kit), and run 32:1 pre-mix for break-in, and 40:1 after break-in.

    ...but I put at least 4.ozs. per each gallon that I put in. I only mixed 2 gallons...
    With only 2 gallons in the fuel tank, you will probably have a low fuel warning, and possible RPM limiting.

    If you are doing an engine break-in, you need to do it on the water, with a full fuel tank and the correct overall oil-fuel ratio.

    Also, you don't want to do break-in with low fuel levels. Bouncing on the water can aerate the fuel in the bottom of the tank, and air bubbles can get pumped to the carbs, causing an unwanted lean condition.

    If the oil injection system is going to be used, then fill the oil tank, bleed the oil lines, and pre-mix the gasoline 50:1 for the break-in period only.

    There is also a recommended engine operating cylce for break-in. Search for the threads where this has been discussed. It involves varying throttle levels, and cool down periods between runs.

    BTW, try to keep questions relating to your own machine to a single thread, preferably your own thread. That way, others can keep track of what questions and answers you are getting. Sprinkling questions across many threads just makes it harder.

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