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  1. #1

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    Polaris pro1200 issues

    its a 2000 year model. i have been noticing a few small issues and hope someone can help.

    ok 1st off, for being 1200cc's it only tops out at 50mph on smooth water (on rare occasions) and has never broken 52. i have tried running B-12 chem tool through it to clean the carbs from the inside and it never made much difference. i have changed the spark plugs, again not much improvement. air filter is clean, however when i take of the flame arrestor cover off and air filter there seems to be alot of excess oil there. any suggestions?

    i have also noticed that there is alot of drag on the body itself. on the back corners of the jet ski where the black bumpers are it doesnt seem to be very water dynamic, meaning a piece juts out and goes against the flow of the water. wondering if there was a easy fix for it (prob not, but i figured id ask)??

    and also on the electronic trim, i guess somethings coming loose because if i am in rough waters the LCD display will show the trim to move a bar or 2 without me even touching the button and i just adjust it back. it has gradually gotten worse, meaning it used to do it maybe once the whole day on the lake, then the other day i noticed i was having to re-adjust it every little while. any ideas with this or what to tighten?

    also does anyone know where i can get spare hood parts? the hood itself is good, but the shock that holds the hood up and mounting hardware is broken and or missing.

    any help would be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Please ask a moderator to move this thread to the appropriate Polaris forum, where it will get better attention.

    Sounds like your Pro1200 engine needs some attention. Have you checked compression, cleaned the carbs, and so forth?

    Peruse the Polaris Classifieds for parts suppliers. You can buy a replacement gas spring (not a shock) from a number of the common online Polaris parts suppliers.

    The rimt sounds like the switch or wiring has an intermittent short in it. You should get if fixed before the short becomes permanent.

  3. #3

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    thanks

    compression is good, i've checked that. changed spark plugs. i ran some b-12 chem tool through it to clean it from the inside, but as far as taking the carbs apart and cleaning em, i took them apart but couldnt find the high and low jets. im not too mechanically savy, so im doing all i can before i have to spend a fortune to have it serviced. oh, and how do i move the thread to a "more appropriate" place?


    thanks for your help

  4. #4
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    #'s

    lets get some basics first,set the mfd for rpm #'s and mph,go make some long smooth water runs,then at idle press the set button,it'll bring up peak rpm and mph #'s.lets see what rpm's its turning,we'll figure out whether its low on rpm and motor related or if the rpm's are good and its a prop pump issue or such

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by txdj0709 View Post
    compression is good, i've checked that. changed spark plugs. i ran some b-12 chem tool through it to clean it from the inside,

    but as far as taking the carbs apart and cleaning em, i took them apart but couldnt find the high and low jets.

    im not too mechanically savy, so im doing all i can before i have to spend a fortune to have it serviced.

    oh, and how do i move the thread to a "more appropriate" place?
    It has already been moved!
    Carbs are not that difficult to work on, but you do have to be careful, and pay attention to the details. They have lots of small parts and precise clearances inside.

    Others here can guide you on how to work on your carbs, and there are some nice rebuild documents at www.sbtontheweb.com

    If you don't feel comfortable doing you own carb work, there are several Green Hulk members that can do the work - you send the carbs out, they come back clean and ready to install.

    You will need to do some final adjusting once they are back on the engine, but it is not that hard to do.

  6. #6
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Hey Dave, whats up??

    I'm rather stumped on why his isn't performing up to what it should be doing. He has 130 on all 3 cylinders (is that what it was??) when we checked it last. Maybe something we could check is the impeller clearance. Plugs had a light brown color on the insulators from what I remember last so I don't think it's running lean.

  7. #7
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    First check crank index, one out of phase cylinder will create your loss.
    Check timing. If somebody performed an update and didn't re-set and verify timing, you will also suffer a power/speed loss.
    Lets have a look at the piston wash, you may be supplying enough fuel down low but have a restriction in the fuel system or weak pump creating power loss at the top end.

  8. #8
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    do what????

    just curious why were looking to rip it apart????if its turning 6700 rpm i don't see an issue with the motor or carbs,timing maybe if it gets there sluggishly...a wiped out pump stator or bent prop would severely limit mph so lets get some base facts as to rpm and go from there

  9. #9
    mixx911's Avatar
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    Sound just like my ski, I was thinking 50mpg was the top speed. My max speed 49.9 mph and rpm's 6400, on a very flat day. I do need to put new spark plugs in, but having trouble finding NGK BR9ES.

  10. #10
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mixx911 View Post
    Sound just like my ski, I was thinking 50mpg was the top speed. My max speed 49.9 mph and rpm's 6400, on a very flat day. I do need to put new spark plugs in, but having trouble finding NGK BR9ES.
    You can get them from Sparkplugs.com: $2.24 each

    http://sparkplugs.com/results_cross....r9es&x=39&y=11

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