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  1. #1
    cfgp927's Avatar
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    Genesis got me stumped

    Buddy brought me a friends Genesis....it needed help bad. Wouldn't hardly start or run on the trailer, let alone on the water. 1st thing I did was charge the battery and performed a compression check. 125 Mag, 125 Center, 124 PTO. Next checked fuel delivery.....all three carbs needed to be serviced. Rebuilt all three. Started on the trailer and it idles o.k., as soon as you give it gas it bogs horribly. Checked all three plugs, Mag o.k., Center o.k., PTO soaking wet. Cleaned plugs tried again, same results. Checked spark plugs closely and noticed a cracked resistor on PTO plug, changed it, problem still exists. Checked spark on all three plug wires with spark gap tester and I'm getting good spark on all three cylinders. Could it possibly be broken reed petals not sealing and allowing fuel to circulate constantly???? I'm open to suggestions, and a possible cure.
    Mike


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    While I was reading your post I was thinking to myself fuel or reeds. It's worth checking them just to make sure.

  3. #3
    cfgp927's Avatar
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    I will check the petals tomorrow....any known electrical problems with these machines???? The owner told me that he lost all his display information when the thing started running poorly late last season. How reliable are the stators on these machines???? I've ohmed the spark plug leads back to the coil and everything seems to be o.k. in that direction. Anyone else have any input? Thanks for your input PH2O
    M

  4. #4
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    The MFD is supplied power through a red/purple wire and a ground through a black wire. Check their connections at the rear of the display and make sure they are tight on the board.
    Now if the battery was going dead while you were riding it might explain the poor running condition and the MFD loss.
    I'd check the charging system and battery condition as well.

  5. #5
    cfgp927's Avatar
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    Not reeds, they are all fine.
    Get this....since the MFD ( which I may start referring to as the mother f-ing display) wasn't working, I opened the electrical box and promptly replaced a blown fuse for both it and the bildge pump. Decided to hit the start button to see if the display would come up. Presto...it did. Says to be unlocked and showing voltage of the battery at 11.9volts, low fuel light blinking, gauge showing one bar for fuel. I decide to try to start it...again...presto the thing is running like a champ. Stop everything before it builds up too much heat and decide to hook it up to the hose so I can let it run for an extended period. Get everything ready, hose hooked up, daughter manning the faucet, start it up, turn water on, and it starts running like a pig. Stopped everything, started the whole process over and this time started hitting buttons on the MFD and low and behold it starts to run like a champ again. What gives?????? I don't have any tach function, while the boat is running, several functions not working still on the MFD. Does the MFD ever shut off???? It's been on now for over an hour, and the display stays up constantly....again what gives???? My yamaha's always time out and turn off. Any help greatly appreciated.
    M

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow MFI security code reset method

    Genesis and Virage use MFI displays, not MFD. Similar functions, but the MFI does a few more things (like security locking). They are all often called MFDs anyways...

    When the MFI goes to sleep, it does not go totally blank. See attached images for details.

    You have thoroughly checked all the ground connections, all the way from the back of the MFI to the battery negative. All solid and clean?
    Even the battery negative cable to the engine block (both cable ends cleaned and re-torqued?)

    A bad ground or loose/corroded power connection can make all sorts of crazy things happen.

    The MFI (and the older MFD type) get the RPM signal from the Yellow wire from the stator coil. This same Yellow wire is used to control the battery charging voltage, via the LR voltage regulator.

    You might want to put a multi-meter right on the battery posts, and check that you have proper charging voltage when the engine is running. Should jump to around 14 volts right away after starting, and stay there as RPM varies.

    Do you have low fuel or low oil? The MFI will put the CDI in RPM limit mode (3500RPM max, I think) if there is a fault condition, and there will be a red light on the MFI (if the MFI is working). Same for the overheat sensor.

    You can 'reset' the MFI security code (to the factory default code of 1234) as follows;
    - While display is sleeping, unplug oil sender and use a small wire or jumper clip to short the two wires going back to the MFI. Leave it shorted.
    - Unplug the fuel sender, and also short the pink wire to ground (black wire) feeding back to the MFI. Also leave this pair shorted together.
    - Press Display button to wake up display
    - Enter default security code 1234

    At this point, the security code should be reset to factory default of 1234, and I think the MFI should also be unlocked, ready to start the engine.

    - To enter your own security code, press and hold the Lock button until Change Code appears. Follow the prompts to change the code.

    - Remove the two shorting jumpers and reconnect the oil and fuel senders connections normally.

    I don't know if resetting the MFI will make any difference in your case, and it needs the power and ground to be good to work properly, so check those first.

    MFI Warning conditions;
    Low Fuel 1/8 tank or less remaining
    Low Oil ¼ tank or less remaining
    OverHeat
    Low Battery – voltage 10.9 volts or less
    Check Engine – EMM is not happy about something
    Reverse – Reverse gate is not set to full ahead

    Other MFI notes
    You can not Lock or Unlock the MFI while start button is held on. Voltage on Purple/White wire must be removed before MFI will allow mode switch between Locked and Unlocked modes.

    If MFI is unlocked, and incorrect lock codes are entered five times in succession, MFI display will show 'Locked' when attempt is made to enter another code, but engine will still be able to start. This makes it difficult to guess the lock code.
    MFI display will stay in this 'Code Locked' mode for a few minutes before allowing more attempts at entering the correct lock code.

    The 12-pin connector for an MFI display looks the same as for a 12-pin MFD, but the pin wiring is different. Do not plug an MFI into a 12-pin MFD wire harness (the 12 to 8 pin MFD adapter 2460772 also won't work with an MFI), and do not plug a 12-pin MFD into a 12-pin MFI harness.

    More MFI and MFD information can be found here
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Polaris MFD (Virage+Genesis) instructions 1.jpg 
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ID:	84662   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Polaris MFD (Virage+Genesis) instructions 2.jpg 
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Size:	1.24 MB 
ID:	84663   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Polaris MFD (Virage+Genesis) instructions 3.jpg 
Views:	395 
Size:	1.09 MB 
ID:	84664  
    Last edited by K447; 07-07-2013 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Improved clarity for Security Code reset sequence

  7. #7
    cfgp927's Avatar
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    O.K....since my last post, I have completely traced all grounds on the electrical system and found them to be good (no shorts, good continuity)cleaned the ground cable connections and reconnected, re-torqued and covered them with waterproof dielectric grease. Same for the "hot" leads from the battery to the starter relay and starter. The MFI is functioning properly according to what I've been able to read ( thanks K447 ). I've replaced the fuel in the tank (not much, and left over from last season) with 2.5gallons of fresh 87 octane. The boat cranks over now but fails to start.
    I've checked for spark, and found none. I thought earlier that the spark I was getting was weak. It was good enought to get the boat to fire and run erratically. The boat has 553.9hrs on it. Could it be the stator??? Coil??? I don't have a manual for this boat and the owner doesn't either. I will replace the stator if I need to, but don't want to have to if it could be something else. Once again looking for input.
    Mike
    Last edited by cfgp927; 07-26-2008 at 05:22 PM.

  8. #8
    Rocky_Road's Avatar
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    It is simply amazing, how many ski issues go away when a new battery is installed. It is not unusal to have an older battery able to turn over the engine, but not fire the ignition system.

    I would definitely eliminate this possibility...!

  9. #9
    cfgp927's Avatar
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    I'll try a known good battery, but the one in the boat is holding 12.3-12.5 volts now.
    Mike

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfgp927 View Post
    I'll try a known good battery, but the one in the boat is holding 12.3-12.5 volts now.
    Mike
    The important battery test is when the engine is cranking. The battery must deliver voltage under load. Battery voltage while just sitting doesn't tell you enough.

    You must have at least 10.6 volts during engine cranking, and any decent battery should be well over 11.0 volts during cranking.

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