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  1. #1
    Marley Creek, MD
    Join Date
    Jul 2008

    Update, diff't problem? Overheat at cruise+ speeds.


    My ski is an old POS that runs pretty strong and i haven't had any real problems in the last 2 years, as i have come to expect from yamaha. Previous owner used and abused it, and so do I.

    But on the last two times out i got the overtemp alarm/buzzer at i guess about 35/40+mph sustained for more than a minute or two.

    I've checked the sensor, it checks out fine.

    I did have a clogged pee hole (i didn't even realize it had a pee hole) and cleaned/blew that out, might have been plugged since i got this ski. Also cleaned & blew out all the other lines, from the rear/jet to the p-hole, to the exhaust(?). Also the tee fitting between the block, exhaust, and p-hole was blocked on the p-hole end. Then i took it out for another test trip, and it still 'overheated'.

    I thought it was suppose to go into limp mode after overheat alarm? But it didn't, i thought it was just seagulls whistling the first few times.

    Any suggestions on what to check/do?

    I am changing over to premix as i type, i was thinking maybe the injection pump was dying not getting enough oil to motor, but i doubt that. I figure it would just die and the motor would blow be more likely. It blows no shortage of oil smoke off of idle.

    P.S.: I'm an hvac mechanic, and if i don't hear back on ideas, i'm going to flush the cooling system with condenser cleaner to get some heat transfer back.(but i'd rather not as it might ruin it).

    Oh and it's a 1995 yamaha wave raider 700, stock. (and yeah it skids around, porpoises, is unruly and i love it)
    Last edited by 95yami701; 08-03-2008 at 06:43 PM.

  2. #2
    Nothing obvious to tell u! but what blockage did u have at tha tee? also check for kinked hoses , worst case is pull the exhaust and head and check/ clean passages ps just saw your note on condensor cleaner, not sure how that would work? do you ride in salt water?
    Last edited by ZMANN; 07-20-2008 at 10:09 AM.

  3. #3
    Marley Creek, MD
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Best i can describe the blockage is oily chunks of vegetation.

    Where i've been riding lately is a pretty nasty creek, next to steel mills and other industrial places on my way to the bay. Not surprised something might get sucked in there. But it looked like old debris that had been lodged in there a long time.

    How does the exhaust bit of it work. Is it just a tube-in-tube heat exchanger, or does water actually enter the exhaust gas stream to muffle sound??? Been searching around but comming up short on some specifics.

    Also, should i fatten(richen) the high speed needle, perhaps it is running lean up top???

    edit: should i richen it anyway going to premix to compensate for oil in gas? Like 1/32 or 1/16 turn?

    (i'm not concerned if it runs a little rich, i'm not trying to break speed records)
    Last edited by 95yami701; 07-20-2008 at 10:17 AM.

  4. #4
    i usually bump the needles up a little when I premix!
    i don't doubt you have debris stuck somewhere!
    the 701 's are easy to work on ! I would probably pull the head first and inspect!
    They sell inline strainers for riders like you and you just clean them periodically .
    I don't know how you could use the condenser cleaner? you don't wan't liquids circulating without the motor running!( you risk water intrusion )

  5. #5
    Marley Creek, MD
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Yah i think i'll richen the high needle 1/4 turn, low about 1/16. Premix, and try it out today.

    I could run the cleaner through while running, but i guess i'd only get 3 minutes flush, 10 minute soak, 3 minutes rinse, 3 rinse. That will be a last resort though.

    I've never understood the water intrusion thing.... is that because of the mysterious magical waterbox? Is it water/coolant that muffles these engines? And so water can go backwards through exhaust into engine case when it isn't running?

    I don't plan on pulling heads until she blows up... and i don't intend to fix this ski when it does blow up (well i probably would to sell it). It can't be THAT easy to pull the heads. Just the parts alone for the head gasket etc would cost more than i paid for this thing.

    I'll be stepping up to a newer ski (or 2) by next year. I'd like to have a 3 seater, as the waves in the bay are about 1 to 2' rolling waves, and with this little raider i just can't seem to keep a good pace for more than maybe 8 wave jumps, then i'm porpoising and skidding like mad and getting passed by every other vessel out there just skimming over the waves. Though it is great in the rivers around here. Probably mostly driver error (i'm still a noob), but i suspect hull design/size playing a good part in it too. Plus by the time i spent money to make this thing really reliable (electrical gremlins), i'd of spent enough to buy a newer one.

  6. #6
    Marley Creek, MD
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Well that seems to have fixed the buzzer. But now i'm thinking the buzzer was a fluke.

    Everytime i accelerate the oil and temp light come on; the harder i accelerate the brighter they are (and the oil wires are tied together now). And the fuel gauge acts oppositely, when i get on it it goes down to nothing. So...... i'm guessing it is yet another electrical gremlin in this old skiiii.

    Any ideas what to look for?
    Does the cdi box communicate to the display, or is the display strictly off of sensors. (i'm thinking it only gets rpm from cdi).

    I'll be checking the main ground, pulling the plug(s) on the display and checking connections. Chime in if ya have any ideas.

    Oh.... and my multi function displayeramogizmojobber has always had a big half circle in the bottom center of it.... ne1 else had this? I'm thinking i'll just get rid of the display and put in gauges if it is not needed.

    p.s.: i still want to know how the 'water box' works.

  7. #7
    jdog800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Alexandria L.A.
    check compression

  8. #8
    Marley Creek, MD
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    It runs great, plugs good, compression is good.

    Display is toast, has water spot in it (the big half circle) and i see water in it; and i basically destroyed it trying to take it apart once i determined it was bad. Disconnected battery for a few minutes. Plugged it back in, display did not come on. Punched the display and it blinked on. Punched it again and it blinked on and stayed on for about 30 seconds, but read all segments on. Turned it face up, off. Turned it face down on. So something is losing contact depending on g-force.

    No way i'm paying $325 new for this thing, nor 125+ used.

    Anyone ever converted to regular old gauges? It starts up fine without it plugged in.

  9. #9
    Marley Creek, MD
    Join Date
    Jul 2008

    Still chirping

    This chirping/beeping sound is sill there. Have a totally different display now and no beeper at all, and no alarms or diagnosis on screen, no warning light going on. So when i heard the beep i figured something was up. Decided it is more of a chirp sound.

    Only happens at higher rpm's, say 5,000+. Duplicated it several times. Kind of a squeeky chirping beeping noise.

    This sound like a crankshaft bearing going? Maybe a pump bearing? Any ideas? This mean the engine is likely to lock up at anytime? Very weird i've never heard such a noise.

    edit: nevermind new lanyard with whistle (oh and i'm a moron)
    Last edited by 95yami701; 08-04-2008 at 05:53 PM.

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