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  1. #1

    NEWBIE Question about high idle SLX780

    I recently acquired a 95 SLX780 with 40 hours on it. My brother had bought this new back in 96 and basically used it part of one summer. The next summer when he took it out he said it wouldn't get up over about 10 mph. He said he had a guy look at the carbs but was not able to come up with anything. So in the mean time it has sat since and I have a sneaking suspicion that it has NEVER been winterized or fogged. My dad finally got tired of having it sit in the backyard so I stepped up and said that I would take it off of his hands. I pulled the fuel tank and dumped all of the old fuel out of it, pulled the oil tank, dumped it and refilled it, replaced the plugs and sprayed out the carbs. A week or so ago I put it in the water and it fired right up and ran on the trailer. I had to replace the fuel sensor due to a gas logged float (broke the bottom off of the sensor pulling it out of the tank). It always fires right up and runs out good with quick acceleration. The only problem I am having is that it idles around 2400 RPM. I have a couple of "boating" buddies that are telling me before I adjust anything I should run a tank of fuel through it with some carb cleaner to see if it helps. Another guy recommended I pull the carbs off of the manifold and soak them in a bucket of carb cleaner to try to remove any varnish. Although I cannot be 100% certain that the carbs were never messed with it runs too good for me to think they were changed much it any. I certainly don't want to jack with them and get them out of whack if all it needs is to be ran a little bit.

    Thanks in advance for the help and for the awesome forum you guys have !!

    sawdust


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I'd rebuild the carbs due to the age and possibility of a plugged or restricted passage. Nothing worse than burning down a piston when you could have possibly prevented it.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk Sawdust.

    First, record the carb settings you presently have. That way you can always return them after you do service. Count the number of turns, and partial turns out. (So count how many turns IN, you're presently at).

    NOTE: Do not over tighten adj screws, as they can be damaged. Only turn them in until it's lightly seated, DO NOT over torque.

    Note: All carbs may have different adjustments, so record what adj was for which carb. For example MAG (front) Hi 7/8 low 1/2 CEN Hi 3/4 low 1/2 PTO (back) Hi 1 1/8 low 1/2. These are the factory settings for your 95 SLX by the way.

  4. #4
    First, thanks for the quick responses. My question is instead of a complete rebuild right off of the bat would it be worth a try to pull the carbs and give them a good soak in carb (or other recommended) cleaner to see if that helps ? If it was a gummed up or blocked passage than this could possible resolve it and save me from having to rebuild them. I have been contemplating simply setting the idle screw to the factory setting and then running it that way to see if it helps. In lieu of all of this, I thought I had read somewhere here that there are some guys who could dependably rebuild these things for me. Any recommendations ?

    Thanks
    sawdust

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
    First, thanks for the quick responses. My question is instead of a complete rebuild right off of the bat would it be worth a try to pull the carbs and give them a good soak in carb (or other recommended) cleaner to see if that helps ? If it was a gummed up or blocked passage than this could possible resolve it and save me from having to rebuild them. I have been contemplating simply setting the idle screw to the factory setting and then running it that way to see if it helps. In lieu of all of this, I thought I had read somewhere here that there are some guys who could dependably rebuild these things for me. Any recommendations ?

    Thanks
    sawdust
    If your going that far, you might as well do a compelte rebuild. It'll likely not cost you much more than $100, and its quite simple to do.

    Also, It'd be my guess you'd do damage to gaskets, diaphrams, etc by soaking the entire carb in cleaner.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
    First, thanks for the quick responses. My question is instead of a complete rebuild right off of the bat would it be worth a try to pull the carbs and give them a good soak in carb (or other recommended) cleaner to see if that helps?
    External soaking tends to NOT clean out the small internal passages inside, which are the ones that are most important to be clean.
    It also won't clean the small filter screens inside each carb, which if they have debris in them will cause problems.

    If it was a gummed up or blocked passage than this could possible resolve it and save me from having to rebuild them.
    Rebuilding is not that hard, just be careful, pay attention, and take your time.
    Purchase genuine Mikuni rebuild kits or parts, not generic.

    I have been contemplating simply setting the idle screw to the factory setting and then running it that way to see if it helps.
    First, screw in each carb adjustment screw carefully, counting the full and partial turns, and record the settings for each screw (to the nearest 1/8 turn).
    MAG is the front carb,
    PTO is the rear,
    CEN is the middle carb.
    One screw on each carb is the 'high speed' screw, the other is the 'low speed' screw.

    In lieu of all of this, I thought I had read somewhere here that there are some guys who could dependably rebuild these things for me. Any recommendations ?
    www.watcon.com will rebuild and set them up...
    There is a nicely done Mikuni carb rebuild guide on www.sbtontheweb.com

    While their guides are fairly good, many folks around here don't like the actual SBT products.

  7. #7
    Yeah. I am probably trying to put off the inevitable. Does anyone have an idea on what watcon charges for rebuilding all of the carbs (ballpark)? Also what where would be a good place to go for a Mikuni kit ?

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
    Yeah. I am probably trying to put off the inevitable. Does anyone have an idea on what watcon charges for rebuilding all of the carbs (ballpark)? Also what where would be a good place to go for a Mikuni kit ?

    Thanks
    ebay. And I'd bet you can pull off the rebuild yourself and save some $$$

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sawdust View Post
    ...what watcon charges for rebuilding all of the carbs (ballpark)?
    I think it was about $50-$60 per carb, plus whatever parts are actually needed (which is often less than the full rebuild kit contains), plus shipping both ways.

    Randy is away for a few days at the moment, I think.

  10. #10
    Do it yourself. John Zigler on this site has the parts. Its easy. The hardest part is getting to the nuts on the bottom side of the carbs but its plenty doable. I believe they were 12 mm.... Trust me (I cratered two machines due to dirty carbs). Clean them first ...dont run it. Spray carb cleaner into every port and pit hole till you see it come out.

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