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  1. #1

    93' and 94' SL 750 need help!!

    Hopefully someone can help. I have (2) SL 750's. One is a 1993 and the other is a 1994. I have problems with both
    -1993 SL 750 has a rebuilt engine, #1 piston blew because of the single output fuel pump, so I replaced all pistons and 1 Jug and new mikuni triple pump. We started it up in the driveway with a hose connector and fired right up. It sounded river worthy, so we tested it in the water and it only went 30 mph or so, and took a while to get up there. After one lap around the lake, it did not want to idle, just stall. Was not smoking to bad, but took a whole bunch to start back up and unless I had the throttle pushed in a tad, it would stall. The response was very poor.

    -1994 SL 750. Replaced the fuel pump with triple mikuni before any major probems in the block, and had it at the river for the day, at the end of the day, it would bog down and stall when you hit the gas. I replaced the pump right after that sign. Took it to test with the 1993 and response was great but then it started smoking pretty good and back to the bog down and stall. Please help!!! Does anyone know what these issues may be???

  2. #2
    rob2337's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Montréal, Québec Canada
    First, before doing anything, check the compression on all the cylinders. You may also want to check the crank index before doing any other work also.

    After that is done, you should know where you stand. Bogging is usually cause by fuel delivery problems. I would go through the entire fuel system, replace all the fuel lines (don't lose the fuel restrictor) and the in tank lines. Make sure to remove the carbs and clean them out. Also, clean or replace the fuel selector. Make sure that the exhaust pipe water screen is clean.

    If your not to sure about doing the above mentioned, you can do a search about it on the forums. It is a very popular subject.

  3. #3
    I have not done the compression check, but I have cleaned and replaced all fuel lines. I am concerned about the auto-cock that used to be on the line between the Carb and the fuel pump (1" diameter blue thing, looks almost like a tiny fuel pump). The manual says it's a vacuum, and I read on here to by-pass it. There was a clear tube that went to the back of this auto-cock (vacuum) that I plugged. I am correct on doing that? also, pulled the plugs and one was wet and the other 2 had a dry greyish/blackish color. They are the proper plugs, gapped at .028. Is this a carb. issue for both of these?

  4. #4
    rob2337's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Montréal, Québec Canada
    If you just removed the clear line and plugged it from the auto-cock, I think you have found your problem. You need to remove the whole thing and bypass the black fuel lines from it. It acts as a fuel shut-off, and only opens when it sees vacuum. You can also remove the vacuum line and plug it at the crankcase. It is important that this line does not let in air. Don't plug the fuel pump one!

    The skis are now 14 years old. You really need to know the internal conditions of the carbs, fuel selector and lines in the tank. There are also small filters in the carbs that need to be checked. Running with a plugged carb will destroy a piston.

    But before doing the above, I suggest you do a compression test to see if you burned another cylinder. Poor idling and response may very well be a bad piston
    Last edited by rob2337; 07-22-2008 at 12:47 PM.

  5. #5
    I def. removed the whole unit and by-passed the black fuel lines, the only line with nowhere to go was that clear line. So I had plugged it with a screw and hose clamp. I took the heads off and the pistons heads look great. The head gaskets are on perfectly and I have Zero blockage in my cooling system(cleaned when I took all the jugs off). All fuel are new with zero evidence of leakage. My gut is it is a carb. issue. The fuel switch has been tested and works.

  6. #6
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Clean and inspect the carbs.

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