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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States

    Help With handeling set up 05 GP1300r

    I am looking to see what I need to do to get the most out my craft.

    I race closed course in Region 4 formally region 6. I have done everything to my boat let alone seious engine work.

    Id like info on trim tab set up,

    Rideplate set up I have r&d uncut plate

    and anything else.

    I have everythinh out of it now and would like to reasseble it rigtht the first time.


    If you feel you would rather call or email me send PM.

  2. #2
    chicofof's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    central jerzee
    check out jim performance....his gpr ride plates are pretty violent....just that alone will make a huge difference...and its worth every penny....Leo's holeshot kit, ross's carbs, yada yada yada,...these guyz can help push a gpr to itz limits

  3. #3
    zpeters's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    bayville NJ
    Keep stock trim tabs!!! +1 on Jims Plate based on what i hear. (Thats my next mod!!)

  4. #4
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Mesa, AZ
    I race closed course in Region 4 formally region 6. I have done everything to my boat let alone seious engine work.
    -Stock rideplate, or if you can find one used, a shred master plate.
    -If you can find a set of mech-Tabs then great. If not, get a set of aftermarket and space them WAY down. Stock spaced down would be my last choice, but will do in a pinch.
    -Pro-shoe and grate, UNTOUCHED. If you can find one, go for a R/d 12r grate and talk to some of your local racers about wing mods.
    -R/d sponsons, all the way down.
    -Side lifter wedges, and a good comfortable wide bar on your stock steering will work great.
    -Your stock trim is okay, but if you could find an autodrop nozzle for the race course, it would greatly help you out. Keep the trim stuff installed for those smooth water days.
    -Skat pump, if it is allowed in your class.
    -Undersize your prop, just a hair. You want quick recovery times, NOT top speed numbers.

    Basically, you want to shave about 5-8mph in smooth water...and your ski will come alive in the rough stuff. Don't go too rich or during all the bouncing and unhooking it will bog. Don't go too lean, or you will be an expert at piston replacement.

  5. #5
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    United States
    I have an R&D auto trim nozzle pm me if interested. I know some of the guys were running the XLT 3* exit nozzles to help keep the nose down.

  6. #6
    philip_gpr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    What class are you racing in?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
    novice Runabout LTD

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Not sure on your setup and what the rules allow.

    -Shredmaster or stock
    -mech-Tabs or R&D extended tabs
    -R&D 1200R grate
    -Danny's Sponsons
    -Aftermarket wide handle bars (protaper, etc) (what ever feels comfortable for you)
    -R&D Autodrop with VTS
    -Skat pump otherwise blueprint your stock pump
    -exit nozzle grind the visibility and syphon out from the inside, fill with JBweld, blueprint and bore to 86.8mm
    -SkatTrak Swirl type R impellor (depending on your mods, i would go with a 13/19)

    If the rules/your class allow:
    free flow, Leo's holeshot kit, rossnemo's carbs, N8R keel mod, raise the compression, etc
    Last edited by spaceman; 07-23-2008 at 08:38 AM.

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