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  1. #1
    currently fixing
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    newbie needs help!!!

    hi, my name's nick, i just purchesed a 95 polaris 750 SLT.

    problem with it is, i have no spark what so ever, i press the start button and it cranks and sounds strong, but doesn't start. i pulled the plugs and spark tested and no spark, i pulled the electric box apart and found a blown 4 amp fuse, so i wnet and got another this time it was a 5 amp one, tried starting it and it blew the fuse, i don't know alot about these things, i'm more of a camaro person. i know alot....just not this stuff. please i need a veteran at this stuff, and i'd like to get this thing running b4 the end of summer.

    thanks,
    nick

    and if someone lives close to st. charles/St. peters MO i'll pay money for u to fix. my cell is (636)279-5425 call anytime, if i don't answer please leave me a message and i'll return ur call ASAP


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!

    Just to be sure, check the last two digits of the HIN number on the rear deck - that is the model year.

    Be sure to download the 1992-1998 Service Manual.

    If you have an MFD digital display, and there is only one fuse inside the electrical box, that fuse is for the MFD display, and should be 0.25 Amp fuse (1/4 Amp). It should not blow unless there is a short in the MFD or wiring.

    There may also be a 3 Amp fuse for the bilge pump. If the pump is shorted, it will blow the fuse. It is powered up when the engine starts rotating.

    Are you sure the battery is not hooked up backwards?

    There is also a 15 Amp circuit breaker, has it tripped?

    Does the fuse blow as soon as you put it in and connectted the battery, or only when the start button is pressed?
    Last edited by K447; 07-22-2008 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Bigle pump fuse, not trim fuse

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    There's a fuse for the bilge pump, not the trim motor. And a 1/4 amp for the MFD.

    If it's blowing as soon as you try it, then something is grounding. Was there water inside the elec box?

  4. #4
    currently fixing
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    well i took it apart and found the blown fuse, replaced it and then closed the box tried starting it, re-opened the box and the fuse was blown. no there wasn't any water, the electric box gasket looks to be in good condition. i have a buddy that thinks it's either the CDI, coil, or stator. i assume the coil means magneto?

    looks like i'm in over my head, magneto is 300 something and the CDI looks to be just as expensive

  5. #5
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Do you see RPM's on the MFD when you're cranking the engine?
    Have you tested the stator yet?

  6. #6
    currently fixing
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    and someone said check the 15 amp fuse, where is that one located at i only saw the 4 amp fuse inside the electric box

  7. #7
    currently fixing
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    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft View Post
    Do you see RPM's on the MFD when you're cranking the engine?
    Have you tested the stator yet?
    no i didn't even look at the gauge, just watched the motor and listening, so if i don't see RPM's what does the mean and how would i go about testing the stator? i have a meter...

  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    The manual shows the stator testing procedure.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nknoshaug View Post
    ...someone said check the 15 amp fuse, where is that one located at?
    I only saw the 4 amp fuse inside the electric box
    Quote Originally Posted by nknoshaug View Post
    no I didn't even look at the gauge, just watched the motor and listening, so if i don't see RPM's what does the mean and how would i go about testing the stator?
    I have a meter...
    The 15 Amp is the resettable circuit breaker, not a fuse.

    We are trying to figure out what is blowing the fuses, as this (obviously) should not be happening. Need to go step by step here to find the short or failed component that is causing the excess electrical current flow.

    If the MFD was showing RPM while cranking, that indicates the fuse to the MFD has not (yet) blown, and the MFD was seeing the RPM signal from the engine (Yellow wire).

    Look at the circuit diagram in the Service Manual (near the back), and look at which wires the blown fuse (fuses?) is feeding. The Orange wire feeds the bilge pump through a fuse. That fuse is not important to running the engine.

    The MFD fuse only powers the MFD, and the MFD is also not needed to start the engine (but it is helpful for diagnostics).

    Check that someone has not moved a wire connection to the wrong position inside the box. All the black wires connect together, and all the other wires are colored, and the box has markings for which wire color is supposed to connect to which metal tab.

    Once you checked the wiring, leave the bilge fuse out for now. Put your meter on the battery posts, and confirm you have 11.0 volts or better while cranking. The absolute minimum is 10.6 volts to have ignition, but any decent battery should deliver more than 11.0 volts during cranking.

  10. #10
    currently fixing
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    well i will check when i get home today at 5:30, but that resettable switch u speak of, is it white and located on the electric box and have a sticker on it that say "press to reset"? if it is i think it may be pushed in and broken, cause i tried pushing it and it didn't push down, i will take pics of everything when i get home

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