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  1. #1
    SideFX's Avatar
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    Question A couple tech questions with reference images

    I won't print too much here at the moment as the questions I have are marked on the images.
    I posted reference letters on each to make it easier to reply to the individual questions.
    Drive shaft and splines look good.

    Any help is appreciated as I am new to Poalris.

    TY, Peter
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  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Reed Cage
    I think they are discoloration marks from rust, maybe from a previous water intrusion issue?
    I don't like when the reeds aren't sitting flush on the cage and replace them when I see this.

    Tail Cone
    The unit should be dry, replace the O ring and re-seal.

    Impeller
    I wouldn't worry about the imperfection, it doesn't affect your ride.
    Last edited by ph2ocraft; 07-26-2008 at 09:40 AM.

  3. #3
    BBCaprice's Avatar
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    A little water under the cone shouldn't hurt; how do the bearings feel when it rotates? Should be silky smooth.
    Reed petals should lay perfectly flat w/ no cracks in them. Corrosion is not uncommon on the reed cages. But sand/brush off any loose stuff.
    Are you sure the wobble you see is just maybe the impeller snout isn't perfectly flat across? I doubt the stub shaft could be bent; but anythings possible.....

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    When you removed the tail cone from the stator, was the tail cone pointed towards the floor (as recommended by Polaris)?

    Water can get into the cavities between the inner and outer walls of the cone, which is OK (not great, but OK). If the tail cone was pointing upwards when you pulled it off, then any water trapped in the wall cavities can drip into the centre area, which could have been dry up until that moment.

    If all the water you see in there is clear, not rusty coloured, and you see no other signs of rust, and smooth turning bearings, then you are probably just fine, bearing wise.

    That silicone (if that is what it is) might have been somebody's attempt to 'improve' the rubber gasket sealing, or it could just be some gunk that seeped past the outer part of the gasket, but did not get past the O-Ring (which is the main seal).

  5. #5
    SideFX's Avatar
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    Going down the list here...


    K447- When you removed the tail cone from the stator, was the tail cone pointed towards the floor (as recommended by Polaris)?


    Yes, as I first thought it may be filled with oil. About a level teaspoon of water came out. There was also about the same amount from the other end, as when I pulled the shaft straight upwards at 12 o'clock, I could see it in there. So I tipped it out again thinking it may be lube, but wasn't. All looks clean w/o rust being present. There was no O-ring at all. Just that silicone and does look like someone placed it on there before the cone.



    BBCaprice- The impeller spun freely. No grinding, no hesitations or flat spots.
    If I look at the opposite end of the impeller where it is nested nearest to the pump, I can see a slight deviation as I turn it by hand. Probably a 1/16 or 1/32. It's a very small amount, however I can see it.
    I wonder if that is why my hand and throttle fingers were going numb after a while. I have felt this faint hi frequency vibration that reminded me of my Yamaha Virago. Not a shake, but a high pitched hi frequency vibration. Sort of like that device my father used to clean his dentures in .) Mostly at lower to mid rpm's.



    ph20craft
    - regarding flush,... the others look fine, was just that one. Not knowing much in the department at present, I ask:
    When I was riding. it had a rough idle. When I throttled up, there was a spot it seemed at about 3,800 rpm that the ski just wanted to take off. Almost like a power band if I may say. Full bore from there on up. Could reeds or that one not making a proper seal be the cause of that, or are they just designed like that?

    ----------

    Are the bearings in the pump needing to be greased/re-packed at any time?
    My XP holds oil under the cone, but nothing in the Polaris? This baffles me with such high rpm's and frequent use.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideFX View Post
    ...tail cone...
    About a level teaspoon of water came out.
    As long as it came out of those wall cavities in the tail cone, it is OK.

    There was also about the same amount from the other end, as when I pulled the shaft straight upwards at 12 o'clock, I could see it in there.
    Um, are you saying you can move the stub shaft up and down with the impeller mounted on it?

    What do you mean by the other end? The impeller end of the stator?
    The shaft seal under the impeller seal is done differently, and water can sit between the impeller's hub and the stub shaft seal of the stator - not a problem.

    The impeller is supposed to be torqued onto the stub shaft (100ft-lbs), with essentially zero end to end play in the rotating assembly. The stub shaft, impeller, and the stator bearing centres all rotate together as a unit.

    So I tipped it out again thinking it may be lube, but wasn't. All looks clean w/o rust being present.
    Good.

    There was no O-ring at all.
    The O-Ring is tucked into a groove inside the stator inside wall, where the round part of the tail cone slides in. Should be in there.
    I think I can just see it hiding under that silicone stuff.

    If you want to be 100% sure, install a new O-ring, lubed with a film of water proof grease. The O-ring is your main water seal, not the flat rubber gasket.
    The tail cone round part should have no grooves or gouges, to ensure a good seal.

    Just that silicone and does look like someone placed it on there before the cone.
    Not factory procedure, as far as I know.


    ...Are the bearings in the pump needing to be greased/re-packed at any time?
    Nope, those bearings are permanently greased and sealed.
    Until the bearings start to wear out and allow the impeller to wobble, the bearings should be good for a long time.

    I don't know if there is a recommended running hours limit for those bearings. Most bearing failures I read about involve water getting inside and causing rust, not just the bearing wearing out.

    Then again, if the bearing wear starts to allow stub shaft wobble, the shaft seals behind the impeller probably cannot keep the water out, so it would be rusting as well as being worn.

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